Mitsubishi Problems

As a commercial vehicle, the 2006 express van was not crash tested by ANCAP when it was released. These days, the van carries a one-star safety rating as a used car, based on real-world crash data.

Fundamentally, the Express is an old design and doesn’t make use of many of the most basic safety features that passenger cars of the day had. The forward seating position also has an effect on crash safety and, if you look at newer van designs, you’ll often see that the front-seat passengers are placed farther back in the vehicle as a result. The bottom line is that there are better choices if crash safety is your major concern.

This sounds like a case of a split fuel pick-up pipe in the fuel tank. When the tank is full, the split in the pick-up is covered by fuel, so the pump works normally at supplying the injectors with fuel. But when the level in the tank falls, the split is exposed and the fuel pump suddenly finds it’s much easier to suck air rather than fuel. And engines don’t run too well on just air.

This could be interpreted by a scan-tool as a fuel leak, so a check of the tank’s pick-up tube seems like a good place to start looking. Any actual fuel leak large enough to cause this problem would, presumably, be visible, but it’s worth a check of the fuel rail and return lines as well. Failing that, you could have a dud sensor that is telling the computer there’s a fuel shortage and sending the car into limp-home mode to protect the engine (which would also explain the loss of power). It would also be worth checking to see that the new Suction Control Valve (SCV) is working properly, even though it's brand new.

The NSW government website advises that you must not drive a high performance car on red P-Plates. But that’s hardly the case for a 2007 Outlander, so you should be fine. The catch is that you must also only drive cars that feature the type of transmission you took your test on. So, if you took your test in an automatic or clutchless manual car, then the Outlander you drive unsupervised must have the same transmission type, and not have a conventional manual with a clutch pedal.

You have a couple choices here. You can either go to a brake specialist or a general spare parts store, both of whom should have what you need, or will be able to order it for you. If it’s not on the shelf, metropolitan stores can generally have the parts for you the next business day. If you can wait a little longer, there are plenty of online sites that also sell the repair kits you need. Some of these sites might allow for local pick-up, but the majority of orders will be mailed to you.

Just make sure if you go down the latter route to use a secure payment system that will refund your money if the parts never turn up. Also, local (Australian) online stores will likely have a faster turnaround than overseas sellers, regardless of any price difference. If you do shop overseas, you’ll also need to decide whether you want the faster (more expensive) shipping option sometimes offered.

There’s nothing wrong with your car, Regina, this is just the way a car’s air-conditioning works. And yours is behaving completely normally.

Although the fan will blow air when the car’s engine is stopped, the actual air-conditioning (which is what makes the air cold) needs the engine to be running to power the AC’s pump. Without the car’s engine, the AC pump won’t work and the air coming out the vents won’t be cold. When you start the engine, the AC pump suddenly has the power it requires and the air gets cold. That’s just how it works.

If you had a loss of drive in every gear, the suspicion would be that the transmission is low on fluid or the torque converter is not working properly. But if it’s only reverse gear that is playing up, the chances are that the bands or clutch pack that locks the transmission into Reverse is allowing the gears inside the transmission to spin without actually transferring torque to the output shaft (and thence to the wheels).

That said, there could be other internal problems that could cause this, so a visit to a transmission specialist is the best advice. Don’t delay it either, as continuing to drive the vehicle in its current state could do more damage to the transmission.

It all depends on what you call bouncing and how you define bumpy country roads. But one thing’s for sure, if the car really is leaping about more than it should, it has nothing to do with the fact that the engine is in the front. Don’t accept that sort of nonsense from anybody; a modern car should be balanced to drive and that’s that.

There has to be a degree of movement over bumps – that’s why cars have suspension in the first place - otherwise, they’d be very uncomfortable to ride in. But excess movement means there’s either a problem with the suspension itself (bushes, ball-joints or maybe even the springs themselves) or the shock absorbers aren’t doing their job by controlling and arresting the normal movement over bumps.

Again, though, it’s important to set parameters for what’s normal and what’s not. The parlous state of this nation’s country roads at the moment means it’s possible to encounter some truly momentous bumps and potholes, many of which are enough to damage a car’s suspension, not just test its limits. Meantime, start with a check of the shock absorbers and work from there. If they’re worn out or tired, they can certainly allow more movement than there should be.

Under Australian Consumer Law, all brand-new cars sold here must come with a factory warranty, but it’s up to the manufacturer where to set the time and distance limits for that model. But even the most generous car-maker isn’t going to apply a warranty to a car that is now two decades old and has covered goodness knows how many kilometres.

For reference, most new-car warranties now cover a vehicle for between five and seven years. You will sometimes find a manufacturer will help out with some of the cost of repairs if the vehicle is only slightly out of warranty (and then, usually on a pro-rata basis). And that will only ever happen if the vehicle is question has an absolutely perfect service record.

If your engine has multiple problems, the best advice might be to look for a good, tested second-hand engine and replace the whole thing.

Intermittent problems like this one can be very annoying as they rarely emerge when a mechanic is looking at them. However, you need to have the Mitsubishi dealership mechanic with you for a test drive as you try to make the problem occur, however long that takes. Perhaps you could video the car's behaviour next time it happens and show the workshop that way.

Common causes for a manual car to refuse to select a gear are usually down to a worn, maladjusted or damaged clutch or a poorly adjusted gear linkage. If there's a horrible graunching noise when this happens, I'd suspect the clutch, if not, it could easily be a simple matter of adjusting the selectors. Either way, this shouldn't amount to rocket science in 2024.

Just be sure not to take no for an answer; if the car has a problem, it's under warranty and it's Mitsubishi's problem, not yours. 

Diagnosing electrical problems remotely is a hiding to nowhere, but conventional wisdom says the wiring, earths and related switches are the first place to start. But modern vehicles also rely on body computers to control some of these functions, so that's worth a check, too.

I can only hope you raised and logged this issue with Mitsubishi when it first started happening. If you did, you have what's called a pre-existing condition under the factory warranty terms. If the problem first surfaced five years ago, that would place the flickering occurring from about 2019. Which means, as a 2018 vehicle, it would have been covered by the Mitsubishi warranty. Even if the car subsequently runs out of warranty, a pre-existing condition is still legally required to be fixed by the car's manufacturer.