Mitsubishi Problems

This model Pajero is a bit notorious for having a crank-angle sensor that can fail over time. This is the part of the engine that tells the computer which cylinder needs to fire next, and precisely when, and if it starts to fail, that information is not conveyed and the engine will stall.

This sensor can fail gradually and intermittently too, producing the sort of hit and miss running you’re seeing now. It will often start to fail once the engine gets hot, and perhaps that’s why your car is stalling after running for a short time.

The bottom line is to not ignore it as it won’t fix itself and will eventually get worse until the car won’t start at all. At which point, you’re stranded where ever you happen to be. It shouldn’t cost too much to replace the sensor, but a mechanic should be able to tell you if, indeed, this is the problem.

From memory, the centre orange light on this vehicle indicates whether the locking centre differential is engaged or not. When the light is on, the diff in engaged. When it’s flashing, it’s in the process of engaging electronically. For this process to occur, the main transmission needs to be in neutral, so trying to get the vehicle to move and change gears while the diff is somewhere between engaged or disengaged, might be the problem.

I’ve also heard of problems with the sensor that detects whether the centre diff is engaged or not on this make and model. Sometimes the sensor can die, other times it’s just a wire that has fallen off, but it could mean that the vehicle is confused about what to do and the transmission is stranded in neutral as result.

Try rolling the car forward a few metres (if possible and safe) to see if that small amount of movement allows the diff to engage and normal operation to be restored.

This problem could be caused by any number of things to do with the fuel or ignition system, or even a sensor that is not giving the on-board computer the information it needs to light the fire. But since your car is now almost 20-years-old, there’s a very good chance that the problem is a fuel pump that has simply stopped working. These pumps have a finite lifespan, and when they stop, they often just quit on the spot, leaving you stranded.

The other possibility in a Pajero is that the crank-angle sensor has failed. Without this functioning, the computer cannot determine which cylinder it should be firing when, and that will also put a stop to play. It’s a relatively common Pajero thing.

Squeaks from the engine bay are often caused by worn drive belts, their pulleys and tensioners. You might even have a worn power steering pump, water pump or air-conditioning compressor that is giving off the odd squeak or groan. It’s worth tracking down, though, as should any of these components seize or snap, you could be left stranded.

Check around the water pump for any sign of moisture. At the bottom of the pump housing near the front of the engine, there should be what’s called a 'weep hole’. Any dampness here suggests a pump that’s already leaking and could let go any time, perhaps without further warning.

Even an air leak in any of the car’s vacuum systems (including the one that powers the brakes) can sound like a squeak or squeal, so check all the rubber lines for splits or holes and also that they’re tightly secured to their respective fittings.

Don’t forget to look for any evidence of chafing or rubbing together of various parts. This can also create odd noises.

Provided the blown head gasket is the engine’s only problem, then you can certainly squeeze plenty more kilometres from it by replacing a blown head gasket. It’s a pretty involved process, however, and requires removing the cylinder head, cleaning the surface, and fitting a new gasket. You also need to check the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and the engine block to make sure they’re straight and able to form the seal the engine requires. So, it’s pretty specialised work.

The wild card comes in the form of what else is wrong with the engine. If it’s worn internally and burning oil, for instance, it might not be worth spending the money to change the head gasket. In that case, a full rebuild or a replacement engine makes more sense.

This is another common question, but it’s one without a simple answer as the Triton’s transmission is not designed to have its fluid checked by the owner. As such, it has no dipstick, because Mitsubishi says the transmission is a sealed system and doesn’t need to have the level checked. Which is fine until the gearbox develops a leak and some fluid escapes. But that isn’t in the plan according to Mitsubishi.

The fluid is only supposed to be inspected when the transmission is serviced, which happens from underneath the vehicle. At that point, the transmission is drained of all its fluid and the specified amount replaced. Which is absolutely no help to you wishing to check the fluid level and condition as a (sensible) preventative maintenance measure.

Freezing the owner out of any potential home maintenance might be a great way to save money on the production line, but it doesn’t do much for those of us who like to keep an eye on our cars before niggles become problems.

It’s not uncommon to find unused electrical connectors inside the cabin and engine bay of modern cars. You may find, for instance, that your car is a mid-spec model with electrical adjustment of the front seats (which explains the two connectors that are wired up). But further up the range, there’s a more expensive model with, say, heated front seats that yours doesn’t have. But the wiring loom is the same in both versions of the car, so the connector for the heated seats is present in your car, but has nothing to connect to. If that’s the case, then this is very unlikely to cause a starting problem.

However, a lot of modern cars also position their computers under the seat, inside the cabin. If somebody has removed the seats or fiddled about down there and either dislodged or not reconnected a plug for the computer, then this could definitely cause all sorts of running and starting issues. If you’re still in doubt, most workshops should be able to identify what the connector is and whether it needs to be reconnected or simply left alone.

Changing the starter motor on this model is a bit tricky as the transverse engine locates the starter on the side of the engine, down low and sandwiched between the engine and firewall. You may need to remove some other brackets, wiring and plumbing to gain proper access, but the starter can be removed with the manifolds in place. It just takes some fiddling and patience.

Replacement is the opposite of removal (as they say in the best workshop manuals) but it’s critical to make sure the wiring goes back in the right order or you’ll fry the new starter. Taking a photo of the starter’s location and wiring before you start to pull it all apart is often a wise move as you can use the image for reference later on.

This is typically not a difficult job, but due to the cramped engine bay of this make and model, maybe it’s not a great first project for the home mechanic.

It’s amazing where rainwater will get to under the influence of a pressure difference between the inside and outside of the car, not to mention a 100km/h gale trying to blow everything inside the car. As such, you only need a tiny tear or crease in a door rubber for water to enter the car. And if it enters somewhere near the driver’s seat, that’s where it will stay when it hits the carpet.

Check the rubber seal in the door opening for any signs of damage or a small chunk missing. Even a piece of leaf debris stuck to the rubber can allow a gap big enough for water to enter. Make sure, too, that the door itself is properly aligned on its hinges and is making contact with the whole of the door rubber when it’s shut.

No, by adding that much oil, you’ll almost certainly be overfilling the engine which is no good for it at all. It’s a fair bet that an engine that needed an extra seven litres of oil added has already blown up. Which means you can ignore the numbers; they’re probably a part number or batch number.

What you’re looking for are two holes at the very end of the dipstick. The oil level should be between those holes. For whatever reason, Mitsubishi used holes in the dipstick rather than a high and low mark stamped into it. But it works just the same. Keep the oil level between those holes and you’ll be fine.