Mitsubishi Problems

The drive belts on the engines might be new, but what about the pulleys they run in? A pulley with a worn bearing can start to squeal when under load, such as when you start to accelerate and the belt has to speed up. Also, any coolant or oil on the belt can make it screech, too. When the belts had just been replaced, they were nice and clean, but after a few kilometres have passed and contaminants have been able to build up, you might be back to square one again with a screaming rubber belt.

Check the belts for coolant or oil (or anything else) on them as well as the pulleys and tensioners to make sure a small leak in the engine is not being spread all over the place by the belt. Check the belts for correct tension, too, as this can vary over time and is a classic cause of noisy operation. It does seem odd that both cars have started to make the noise in unison, but stranger things have happened.

By and large, a car should perform the same day in, day out without any huge (or even noticeable) changes in its performance. So I’d say, yes, something is wrong with your car. As for the cause, well, it could be anything from poor fuel to a faulty battery to a park-brake that is sticking on. It’s impossible to diagnose problems like this one remotely, so have it checked out at a workshop. Continuing to drive it with a fault is asking for more damage to be done.

We have no record or recollection of the Mitsubishi Lancer InStyle from any year sold in Australia, and nor are there any Intense or Basic models sold in this country in which to compare and contrast it to. It appears these may be European-specification grades.

While the Mitsubishi Outlander is spacious, reliable and easy to drive, our experience testing it against rival medium SUVs have found it to be noisy and a little too firm riding to be truly comfortable and relaxing. At your price point, there are better alternatives out there. 

Have you considered a Mazda CX-5? In petrol or diesel, we have found it to be a superior and more economical proposition, and is definitely quieter and more refined. Plus, the Mazda's all-wheel-drive system is more sophisticated and better at dealing with loose surfaces like sand.

A late-model (post 2014) S5-series Subaru Forester 2.5i petrol is far more economical than the earlier iterations, since it switched to a more efficient CVT continuously variable transmission. And there's also the 2.0D turbo-diesel which is economical. This, too, is a fine SUV on-road or for light off-road driving.

Finally, the Nissan X-Trail diesel is a roomy and capable choice, especially from 2017, when it received a 2.0-litre turbo-diesel to replace the older 1.6L unit.

As most smaller caravans (two and four berth ones) weight between 800kg and 1300kg, you shouldn't have any problem towing one with a 2020 Outlander. The petrol-powered 2.0-litre and 2.4-litre models have a towing capacity of 1600kg, the diesel-powered ones can haul 2000kg and the PHEV plug-in electric vehicle version is limited to just 1500kg - so probably not that one if it's one of the heavier small caravans you're considering towing.

Please note that the towing capacity is the maximum the car can haul, which means if you have 300kg of luggage in the boot, and have a total of four people collectively weighing 300kg, you'll need to add 600kg to the weight of your caravan. Thus, with an Outlander 2.4L petrol, the maximum caravan weight including four people and luggage should not exceed 1000kg. 

A car with a little extra ground clearance is great for camping as it often allows you to get a little farther away from the masses in their caravans who tend to huddle around the shower block at bush campsites.

The Subaru Outback is a good, solid choice and if you can find an independent workshop to service it, you’ll avoid the cost of dealership prices. And you’re right, the all-wheel-drive would be great for gravel roads. Another vehicle to look at would be a late-model Ford territory diesel which is big and clever inside and has the option of all-wheel-drive. The diesel engine is a plus on the bush where that fuel is more readily available (in really remote areas) and gives you more range for big holidays in the mulga.

Don’t rule out things like the Mitsubishi Pajero, either, which won’t be as around-town friendly, but is a proven quantity and is absolutely tremendous off-road. The same goes for a Toyota Prado or Nissan Pathfinder prior to the current model (which is a bit less hard-core adventure).

This is a really common concern, Raj, especially among people like you who are considering their first diesel-powered vehicle. Modern diesels are very efficient and powerful (compared with old-school diesel engines) but those benefits come with some compromises including higher maintenance costs and potential glitches such as the DPF problems you’ve noted.

DPF problems are usually the result of the filter becoming clogged with the soot from the diesel’s exhaust. There’s not much you can do about a diesel engine producing soot (apart from making sure it’s tuned properly to minimise the soot) so the filter is designed to regenerate when it starts to get full. That process requires heat and that’s where the problems start. A vehicle that is only driven around the suburbs often won’t create enough heat in the exhaust system to allow this regeneration to take place. At that point, the filter becomes clogged and requires either manually cleaning or, in some cases, replacing. Neither is a cheap process.

So, what you need to do is to take the vehicle for a drive at highway speeds to allow things to get hot enough for DPF regeneration to take place. This drive needs to be at least about 20 minutes and it needs to happen at least once a month. So the answer to your question is not really how many kilometres you need to drive, but what sort of kilometres. Even if your four-times-a-week trip to work is, indeed, 50km, if it’s all done in stop-start, low-speed traffic, then it won’t be enough.

The bottom line is that a turbo-diesel isn’t really the right vehicle for a lot of urban-based people. The catch there, is that a lot of vehicles that were once available with a choice of petrol or diesel power are now diesel-only propositions. That includes the Pajero Sport, of course.

When you say the suspension has been upgraded, did that, by any chance, involve raising the ride height? Problems centring around shuddering and vibrations, vague steering and the vehicle generally having a mind of its own are very common among owners who have paid good money to have the suspension hiked by anything from two to six inches.

Aside from the legal and insurance implications of this, raising these vehicles can throw the wheel-alignment settings (particularly the caster angle) out of whack and lead to the problems you’re experiencing. There are fixes including eccentric suspension bushes to return the angles back to normal, but it’s a specialist job.

Beyond that, a vibration at a particular speed can often be traced back to wheel balancing. The wheel and tyre combination on these vehicles is quite heavy, so making sure all the balance-weights are where they should be is critical.