Mitsubishi Problems

Mitsubishi FTO problems seem to be mainly concerned with the engine’s tappets which can get noisy over time. These are small components in the valve-train that determine the amount of valve clearance (or lash). If the lash becomes too great, the engine will start to sound noisy with a persistent ticking noise that will be worse on start-up.

The problem will surface earlier on cars that have a poor service record as skipped oil changes will accelerate wear in their components. It’s not an especially simple job to adjust the tappets, and many workshops advise to have them replaced rather than adjusted.

We’ve also heard of a few automatic gearbox problems, and these can range from faulty sensors requiring replacement, right up to complete gearbox failure. Again, the car’s service record will be a good indicator of its changes of survival into the future.

Beyond that, the same caveats apply to all performance cars of a certain age: Poor crash damage repairs and electrical glitches that are more annoying than anything else.

By and large, a car should perform the same day in, day out without any huge (or even noticeable) changes in its performance. So I’d say, yes, something is wrong with your car. As for the cause, well, it could be anything from poor fuel to a faulty battery to a park-brake that is sticking on. It’s impossible to diagnose problems like this one remotely, so have it checked out at a workshop. Continuing to drive it with a fault is asking for more damage to be done.

We have no record or recollection of the Mitsubishi Lancer InStyle from any year sold in Australia, and nor are there any Intense or Basic models sold in this country in which to compare and contrast it to. It appears these may be European-specification grades.

That price sound about right for a manual Lancer with those kilometres on board. If anything, it’s probably a little on the bargain side. A lot of cars need a windscreen to gain a roadworthy certificate, so that’s no big deal and, provided the car is in good condition generally, it sounds like a decent buy.

Common problems with this model often involved the electrical systems, so make sure all the lights and gadgets in the car work properly. Manual lancers also had the odd problem with a gearshift that could become disconnected from the gearbox itself. If that has happened, you’d definitely know about it as you wouldn’t be able to select gears. It’s not a huge fix if it does happen.

Other relatively common faults in this model included a faulty ABS module that needed to be replaced and this can be a big expense. Oil leaks from the front of the engine are also an issue (particularly for a roadworthy inspection). And don’t keep the ignition key in the same pocket as your phone; stray signals can wipe the key’s memory and leave you stranded.

While the Mitsubishi Outlander is spacious, reliable and easy to drive, our experience testing it against rival medium SUVs have found it to be noisy and a little too firm riding to be truly comfortable and relaxing. At your price point, there are better alternatives out there. 

Have you considered a Mazda CX-5? In petrol or diesel, we have found it to be a superior and more economical proposition, and is definitely quieter and more refined. Plus, the Mazda's all-wheel-drive system is more sophisticated and better at dealing with loose surfaces like sand.

A late-model (post 2014) S5-series Subaru Forester 2.5i petrol is far more economical than the earlier iterations, since it switched to a more efficient CVT continuously variable transmission. And there's also the 2.0D turbo-diesel which is economical. This, too, is a fine SUV on-road or for light off-road driving.

Finally, the Nissan X-Trail diesel is a roomy and capable choice, especially from 2017, when it received a 2.0-litre turbo-diesel to replace the older 1.6L unit.

As most smaller caravans (two and four berth ones) weight between 800kg and 1300kg, you shouldn't have any problem towing one with a 2020 Outlander. The petrol-powered 2.0-litre and 2.4-litre models have a towing capacity of 1600kg, the diesel-powered ones can haul 2000kg and the PHEV plug-in electric vehicle version is limited to just 1500kg - so probably not that one if it's one of the heavier small caravans you're considering towing.

Please note that the towing capacity is the maximum the car can haul, which means if you have 300kg of luggage in the boot, and have a total of four people collectively weighing 300kg, you'll need to add 600kg to the weight of your caravan. Thus, with an Outlander 2.4L petrol, the maximum caravan weight including four people and luggage should not exceed 1000kg. 

A car with a little extra ground clearance is great for camping as it often allows you to get a little farther away from the masses in their caravans who tend to huddle around the shower block at bush campsites.

The Subaru Outback is a good, solid choice and if you can find an independent workshop to service it, you’ll avoid the cost of dealership prices. And you’re right, the all-wheel-drive would be great for gravel roads. Another vehicle to look at would be a late-model Ford territory diesel which is big and clever inside and has the option of all-wheel-drive. The diesel engine is a plus on the bush where that fuel is more readily available (in really remote areas) and gives you more range for big holidays in the mulga.

Don’t rule out things like the Mitsubishi Pajero, either, which won’t be as around-town friendly, but is a proven quantity and is absolutely tremendous off-road. The same goes for a Toyota Prado or Nissan Pathfinder prior to the current model (which is a bit less hard-core adventure).

This is a really common concern, Raj, especially among people like you who are considering their first diesel-powered vehicle. Modern diesels are very efficient and powerful (compared with old-school diesel engines) but those benefits come with some compromises including higher maintenance costs and potential glitches such as the DPF problems you’ve noted.

DPF problems are usually the result of the filter becoming clogged with the soot from the diesel’s exhaust. There’s not much you can do about a diesel engine producing soot (apart from making sure it’s tuned properly to minimise the soot) so the filter is designed to regenerate when it starts to get full. That process requires heat and that’s where the problems start. A vehicle that is only driven around the suburbs often won’t create enough heat in the exhaust system to allow this regeneration to take place. At that point, the filter becomes clogged and requires either manually cleaning or, in some cases, replacing. Neither is a cheap process.

So, what you need to do is to take the vehicle for a drive at highway speeds to allow things to get hot enough for DPF regeneration to take place. This drive needs to be at least about 20 minutes and it needs to happen at least once a month. So the answer to your question is not really how many kilometres you need to drive, but what sort of kilometres. Even if your four-times-a-week trip to work is, indeed, 50km, if it’s all done in stop-start, low-speed traffic, then it won’t be enough.

The bottom line is that a turbo-diesel isn’t really the right vehicle for a lot of urban-based people. The catch there, is that a lot of vehicles that were once available with a choice of petrol or diesel power are now diesel-only propositions. That includes the Pajero Sport, of course.