Hyundai Problems

Anything can be made to work if you throw enough money at it, but the short answer, Bassel, is no. For the 2014 model year, Hyundai upgraded the petrol engines in the iX35, and the two-litre unit in your car received a direct-injection fuel system. While the basic engine architecture might be the same and the engine would probably physically bolt in, it’s almost certain that the computer in your car would be incapable of controlling the direct fuel-injection function. Your car is also probably missing components such as wiring, a high-pressure fuel pump and sensors required to make the newer engine operate.

You could also run afoul of the authorities because the earlier engine you want to use had a (slightly) higher tailpipe emissions rating. Our regulators take a fairly dim view of a vehicle being modified and going backwards on emissions.

Hi Nor, the Kia Sorento is generally reliable and robust, with only a few electrical problems being the main issues, but most should have been sorted out by now. As the Sorento is closely related to the Hyundai Santa Fe, the same would apply to that SUV too.

The 2.4-litre four-cylinder engine you mention was only available in the UM model from 2009 to 2011. After that a 3.5-litre V6 took over. Both engines are known to be robust and dependable. We'd go for the V6 because it does not have to work as hard as the 2.4L hauling such a big and heavy vehicle around. Note, though, that the V6 is thirsty. 

The diesel is the best choice out of all of the engines available, as it is strong and hard-wearing as well as much more economical. 

In our opinion, the Sorento is a better buy than the Santa Fe, since it has more glass area and so is easier to see out of. The interior is pleasant, comfortable and easy to use. And, from the XM model launched in 2015, it is a nicer and quieter car to drive.

Finally, the Kia has offered a seven-year warranty as opposed to the Hyundai's five-year warranty since October 1, 2014, meaning it is possible to buy an older Sorento and still be covered by the factory warranty. 

The Trophy version of the i30 used exclusively the two-litre petrol engine. As such, it actually has both a timing belt and a timing chain. The engine has twin overhead camshafts, but only the exhaust camshaft is driven by the timing belt from the crankshaft. A short timing chain then takes drive from the exhaust camshaft to the intake camshaft. The engine also features variable valve timing.

The good news is that you really only have to periodically replace the timing belt (the chain should be maintenance-free for the life of the engine). The recommended replacement interval is every 100,000km.

You’ve layed out some challenging requirements here. You’d like a small SUV with a bit of ride comfort and clearly a bit of performance too, given your question about the i30 N.
I think you’ll find the ride harsh on the i30 N, especially since you found the ride on the Kona harsh already. Keep in mind the i30 N is a hot hatch and has the suspension to match.
I find the Subaru XV has very nice ride comfort for the small SUV segment, but I also feel that you will be disappointed with the performance from its 2.0-litre engine. You may also want to consider the new Hybrid Toyota C-HR. The Hybrid drive gives it a smidge of extra kick and it’s a fuel consumption hero, too.
For a better blend of performance and ride, really only the Volkswagen T-Roc and Skoda Karoq are going to excel in the small SUV crowd. In terms of ownership both now have five year warranties, and you can (and should) pre-package five years of servicing on top at a discount.

While the vehicle’s VIN will identify the make and model, it won’t necessarily spell out the trim level. That information is usually incorporated on to a build plate attached to the firewall or inner fender.

From June 2019, Hyundai changed the name of its entry-level `Go’ model to `Active’ so effectively, you’ve bought the base-model car anyway. If you have been sold anything other than an Active model, you’ve received a higher specification model, so I wouldn’t be complaining back at the dealership.

The Hyundai iLoad/iMax is a great buy for what you intend to use it for, as they're big, robust and roomy boxes on wheels. Not especially quiet, refined or car-like, but well suited to a camper conversion.

However, you must ensure that the example you are looking at has a full and regular service record. This is because the well-known diesel engine and turbo failures are connected with lapsed servicing. It seems oil sludge builds up, thus starving the engine and turbo of sufficient lubrication.

But here's the tricky bit. Hyundai recommended that all scheduled servicing was carried out every 15,000km, when actually 10,000km maximum was closer to the truth for vans that were driven regularly or had a hard life. Which is most of them.

So, you need to buy on condition as well as service history, to ensure you get the promised long-life out of the iLoad/iMax. If that's the case, you can expect to hit 300,000km without any major issues. Just get that oil changed regularly!

The Sorento seems like a pretty good choice. But don’t forget its cousin, the Hyundai Santa Fe which is also a great vehicle. On balance, though, the Kia seems a little better value and has a superior warranty. In fact, the Kia factory warranty of seven years/unlimited kilometres is an industry leader and makes for great long-term peace of mind.

If you’re happy with the way the Kia drives and works for your family, then there’s no reason not to make that your first choice.

This needs to be fixed fast, Toni, as a car’s exhaust fumes are a deadly cocktail of gasses. Enough exposure to them can make you pass out (an obvious problem when you’re driving) or worse. Diesel engines are generally a bit smellier than a petrol engine, but no exhaust fumes should ever enter the car.

You’re either getting fumes drawn into the car via a faulty seal that is allowing exhaust fumes in, or the smell you’re experiencing is fumes in the engine-bay coming through the firewall. You need to inspect all the rubber seals around the doors and hatchback and search underneath the car and in the engine bay for a split or missing rubber bung or grommet that is letting the outside in.

The other question I have is whether the smell is the result of exhaust fumes or, in fact, the smell of unburnt diesel fuel. Diesel cars often acquire a diesel-fuel smell over time and the cause is hard to avoid. Because diesel doesn’t evaporate, the ground around the diesel pump at a service station is usually one big oily, diesel slick. When you fill your car, you unavoidably stand in this slick which is then transferred to the car’s carpet when you get back in. It’s not as crazy as it sounds, and it may be the clue you’re missing to explain the smell.

That’s definitely higher consumption than I would have expected. Are you driving exclusively in stop-start traffic? If so, that would help explain your consumption, but even then, I’d expect it to be closer to nine or 10 litres per 100km, not 13.

On that basis, I’d be giving the engine a once over in terms of how its fuel-injectors are working and checking things like fuel filters and pump pressure. A car that is not allowing its engine to warm up properly can also use more fuel than it should, because the computer, sensing that the engine is cooler than it should be, richens the fuel-air mixture to compensate. The cause of that can be something as simple as a dud thermostat or a cooling fan that is not switching off when it should.

But the other potential piece of the puzzle could be related to your driving style. You claim that the engine never goes beyond 2500rpm, which could mean you are `lugging’ the engine; making it work too hard at too low a speed. Modern four-cylinder engines don’t mind a rev and, in fact, need to be revving beyond a certain speed to be in their happy, most fuel-efficient, zone.

ZS pros include cheap pricing, an easy driving experience and a comparatively spacious interior compared to other direct rivals like a Mazda CX-3. The dash is pleasant, there is a decent amount of equipment and the controls are all simple to use. It should also be fairly inexpensive to run and service, though earlier ZSs like yours require six-monthly rather than 12-monthly service intervals.

There are two engine options - a 1.5-litre four-cylinder model with a four-speed auto on the base Excite, or a 1.0-litre turbo three-cylinder version on higher-specification Excite Plus and Essence grades with a six-speed auto. Note that the latter powertrain is more expensive to service.

Plus, there's still a fair chunk of the manufacturer's warranty left, which is seven years, while capped-price servicing is also offered.

But the ZS does not offer AEB Autonomous Emergency Braking, so only rates a four-star ANCAP crash-test rating.

Additionally, the ZS's suspension is on the firm side in terms of dealing with road bumps, which might upset some occupants, yet there is not much of the 'fun factor' in regards to steering and handling finesse that rivals like the CX-3, Suzuki Vitara, Honda HR-V, Hyundai Venue, Holden Trax, Ford EcoSport and Hyundai Kona offer in spades.

We've also heard complaints about the interior's perceived quality being sub-par, cabin storage isn't generous and Android Auto isn't supported (though Apple CarPlay is).

Finally, the ZS' resale value trails all of the aforementioned competitors by a significant margin, meaning it's on track to be worth less when the time comes to on-sell it.