Hyundai Problems

This is still a very new model, so there’s not a whole lot of reliability intelligence available yet. Even so, I’m surprised that such a new vehicle has such a glaring problem just a couple of weeks or so out from its delivery as a brand-new car.

The reason the car won’t start when you open the door with the manual key is that the remote should not only unlock the car, but also deactivate the immobiliser and switch on the main electrical circuits that power the Kona. If the remote isn’t unlocking the doors, then it probably isn’t turning on the main systems either, and that’s why you need to reset the battery each time. Hyundai tells me that this car actually has a conventional 12-volt battery, mounted in the conventional place (under the bonnet, just behind the headlight) that powers the functions you’re missing. If this battery has a dud cell or isn’t charging (and it’s just spent several weeks on a ship getting to Australia, remember) then the car will exhibit the symptoms you’re seeing. A trip to the dealer is in order, but your problem is definitely a warranty issue.

By the way, your car is actually not a hybrid at all. It’s a plug-in electric vehicle. A hybrid uses a combination of a petrol engine and electric motor, your car is purely electric.

Hi Nor, the Kia Sorento is generally reliable and robust, with only a few electrical problems being the main issues, but most should have been sorted out by now. As the Sorento is closely related to the Hyundai Santa Fe, the same would apply to that SUV too.

The 2.4-litre four-cylinder engine you mention was only available in the UM model from 2009 to 2011. After that a 3.5-litre V6 took over. Both engines are known to be robust and dependable. We'd go for the V6 because it does not have to work as hard as the 2.4L hauling such a big and heavy vehicle around. Note, though, that the V6 is thirsty. 

The diesel is the best choice out of all of the engines available, as it is strong and hard-wearing as well as much more economical. 

In our opinion, the Sorento is a better buy than the Santa Fe, since it has more glass area and so is easier to see out of. The interior is pleasant, comfortable and easy to use. And, from the XM model launched in 2015, it is a nicer and quieter car to drive.

Finally, the Kia has offered a seven-year warranty as opposed to the Hyundai's five-year warranty since October 1, 2014, meaning it is possible to buy an older Sorento and still be covered by the factory warranty. 

The Trophy version of the i30 used exclusively the two-litre petrol engine. As such, it actually has both a timing belt and a timing chain. The engine has twin overhead camshafts, but only the exhaust camshaft is driven by the timing belt from the crankshaft. A short timing chain then takes drive from the exhaust camshaft to the intake camshaft. The engine also features variable valve timing.

The good news is that you really only have to periodically replace the timing belt (the chain should be maintenance-free for the life of the engine). The recommended replacement interval is every 100,000km.

You’ve layed out some challenging requirements here. You’d like a small SUV with a bit of ride comfort and clearly a bit of performance too, given your question about the i30 N.
I think you’ll find the ride harsh on the i30 N, especially since you found the ride on the Kona harsh already. Keep in mind the i30 N is a hot hatch and has the suspension to match.
I find the Subaru XV has very nice ride comfort for the small SUV segment, but I also feel that you will be disappointed with the performance from its 2.0-litre engine. You may also want to consider the new Hybrid Toyota C-HR. The Hybrid drive gives it a smidge of extra kick and it’s a fuel consumption hero, too.
For a better blend of performance and ride, really only the Volkswagen T-Roc and Skoda Karoq are going to excel in the small SUV crowd. In terms of ownership both now have five year warranties, and you can (and should) pre-package five years of servicing on top at a discount.

It sounds like the brake-light switch is at fault. These are usually located somewhere in the pedal assembly under the dashboard and, when you push the brake pedal, this simple on-off switch activates the brake lights. If the switch is jammed or stuck, it could cause the brake lights to remain on and cause your flat battery. I’d go with this theory first since a short, sharp whack on the brake pedal turns the lights off, suggesting that it’s a sticky switch that’s your problem.

You could try to lubricate the switch with a spray lubricant, but in most cases, the permanent fix is to replace the actual switch. It’s not a huge job and shouldn’t cost too much. That said, your car should still be under factory warranty, so it’s the dealer’s job to fix it.

The Hyundai iLoad/iMax is a great buy for what you intend to use it for, as they're big, robust and roomy boxes on wheels. Not especially quiet, refined or car-like, but well suited to a camper conversion.

However, you must ensure that the example you are looking at has a full and regular service record. This is because the well-known diesel engine and turbo failures are connected with lapsed servicing. It seems oil sludge builds up, thus starving the engine and turbo of sufficient lubrication.

But here's the tricky bit. Hyundai recommended that all scheduled servicing was carried out every 15,000km, when actually 10,000km maximum was closer to the truth for vans that were driven regularly or had a hard life. Which is most of them.

So, you need to buy on condition as well as service history, to ensure you get the promised long-life out of the iLoad/iMax. If that's the case, you can expect to hit 300,000km without any major issues. Just get that oil changed regularly!

A lack of power from the battery to the starter motor can be caused by a range of things starting with the physical stuff like the cabling, terminals or ignition switch, and winding up with a fault in the immobiliser or the on-board computer, for instance. Sluggish performance, meantime, can be any number of things, and just to list them all would take hours.

So, before you go out and spend more money replacing components that may or may not be at fault, have the car scanned at a workshop and see what fault codes it throws up. From there, you’ll have a much better idea of what’s going wrong.

This needs to be fixed fast, Toni, as a car’s exhaust fumes are a deadly cocktail of gasses. Enough exposure to them can make you pass out (an obvious problem when you’re driving) or worse. Diesel engines are generally a bit smellier than a petrol engine, but no exhaust fumes should ever enter the car.

You’re either getting fumes drawn into the car via a faulty seal that is allowing exhaust fumes in, or the smell you’re experiencing is fumes in the engine-bay coming through the firewall. You need to inspect all the rubber seals around the doors and hatchback and search underneath the car and in the engine bay for a split or missing rubber bung or grommet that is letting the outside in.

The other question I have is whether the smell is the result of exhaust fumes or, in fact, the smell of unburnt diesel fuel. Diesel cars often acquire a diesel-fuel smell over time and the cause is hard to avoid. Because diesel doesn’t evaporate, the ground around the diesel pump at a service station is usually one big oily, diesel slick. When you fill your car, you unavoidably stand in this slick which is then transferred to the car’s carpet when you get back in. It’s not as crazy as it sounds, and it may be the clue you’re missing to explain the smell.

Hyundai’s diesel engines are generally regarded as being among the better ones on the market. That’s probably because the South Korean domestic market has been switched on to small capacity diesels for decades and, as a result, Hyundai has been building them just as long.

But, like any modern turbo-diesel, the iLoad’s diesel can be prone to a build-up of black gunk in the intake system, a result of diesel soot and oil mist mixing as part of the vehicle’s own emissions-control systems. The other problem that has cropped up a few times now is a failed turbocharger unit. Generally, this has been the result of a blocked oilway that feeds lubricating oil to the turbo’s bearing. This is a narrow oilway and any sludge in the engine can block it and starve the turbo of its oil. Which is when the turbo itself fails.

That’s far more likely to happen in a vehicle that has not had the correct maintenance with regards oil changes. So check the service handbook before handing over the cash and only buy a second-hand iLoad with a full and correct service history.

ZS pros include cheap pricing, an easy driving experience and a comparatively spacious interior compared to other direct rivals like a Mazda CX-3. The dash is pleasant, there is a decent amount of equipment and the controls are all simple to use. It should also be fairly inexpensive to run and service, though earlier ZSs like yours require six-monthly rather than 12-monthly service intervals.

There are two engine options - a 1.5-litre four-cylinder model with a four-speed auto on the base Excite, or a 1.0-litre turbo three-cylinder version on higher-specification Excite Plus and Essence grades with a six-speed auto. Note that the latter powertrain is more expensive to service.

Plus, there's still a fair chunk of the manufacturer's warranty left, which is seven years, while capped-price servicing is also offered.

But the ZS does not offer AEB Autonomous Emergency Braking, so only rates a four-star ANCAP crash-test rating.

Additionally, the ZS's suspension is on the firm side in terms of dealing with road bumps, which might upset some occupants, yet there is not much of the 'fun factor' in regards to steering and handling finesse that rivals like the CX-3, Suzuki Vitara, Honda HR-V, Hyundai Venue, Holden Trax, Ford EcoSport and Hyundai Kona offer in spades.

We've also heard complaints about the interior's perceived quality being sub-par, cabin storage isn't generous and Android Auto isn't supported (though Apple CarPlay is).

Finally, the ZS' resale value trails all of the aforementioned competitors by a significant margin, meaning it's on track to be worth less when the time comes to on-sell it.