Hyundai Problems

Anything can be made to work if you throw enough money at it, but the short answer, Bassel, is no. For the 2014 model year, Hyundai upgraded the petrol engines in the iX35, and the two-litre unit in your car received a direct-injection fuel system. While the basic engine architecture might be the same and the engine would probably physically bolt in, it’s almost certain that the computer in your car would be incapable of controlling the direct fuel-injection function. Your car is also probably missing components such as wiring, a high-pressure fuel pump and sensors required to make the newer engine operate.

You could also run afoul of the authorities because the earlier engine you want to use had a (slightly) higher tailpipe emissions rating. Our regulators take a fairly dim view of a vehicle being modified and going backwards on emissions.

This has cropped up before in relatively new Hyundais and seems to be a software – rather than a hardware – problem. The solution is to take the car to a Hyundai dealer who will be able to reload the unit’s software and all should be well.

I’ve also heard of the odd case where the entire head unit was replaced by Hyundai, but reloading the software (which should take only a few minutes) seems to be the most common fix.

It’s tempting to draw the same conclusion as you have, Peter, but it may not be that simple. The fact is, there are numerous reasons a car will throw up a warning light on the dashboard and, in the case of the electrical power-steering in your car that certainly holds true.

Also, Hyundai was very clear that the recall for the faulty power-steering only concerned those vehicles built between November 1 2009 and April 30 2010. Your car was built after that date, so it shouldn’t be susceptible to the same problem. However, there is often confusion about build dates, so another way to check whether your car was one of the affected ones is to see if its VIN falls within the list of affected VINs according to Hyundai.

For your references, the affected cars all had VINs between: KMHDC81TMAU064300 and KMHDC51TMAU267226.

If your car isn’t within those numbers, then the likely cause is something different and a decent workshop should be able to scan the car and discover what is causing the warning light. It could be something really simple.

While the vehicle’s VIN will identify the make and model, it won’t necessarily spell out the trim level. That information is usually incorporated on to a build plate attached to the firewall or inner fender.

From June 2019, Hyundai changed the name of its entry-level `Go’ model to `Active’ so effectively, you’ve bought the base-model car anyway. If you have been sold anything other than an Active model, you’ve received a higher specification model, so I wouldn’t be complaining back at the dealership.

Cars generally have a set of protocols that shuts down the entertainment and other systems to avoid the car’s battery going flat. If, for example, you were listening to the radio without the engine running, eventually, the car would switch the radio off to maintain the charge in the battery.

It’s quite likely that the message you’re seeing is something to do with this process. Why doesn’t it send the message every time? Perhaps it only does so after short runs where the battery isn’t fully recharged after starting the car. Maybe your battery is starting to feel its age. See if you can find a pattern to the message appearing; short runs, cold weather, wet weather, air-conditioning on or off, etc.
 

The answer all depends on what you call off-road driving, Javed. The Ford Everest, being based on the Ranger, is a very competent off-roader. In fact, it’ll handle anything most owners would ever throw at it, while the Endura is more of a replacement for the Ford Territory. Meaning it has abilities better matched to a trip to the snow, not a true log-jumping, river-fording off-road journey.

The Sante Fe is more of the same (as the Endura) that is; a car that can cope with gravel roads and slippery surfaces, but not the rough and tumble of the Aussie bush. So it really comes down to how far off road you need to go. And if the answer is a long way, even if it’s just occasionally, then the Everest is your best choice.

The Sorento seems like a pretty good choice. But don’t forget its cousin, the Hyundai Santa Fe which is also a great vehicle. On balance, though, the Kia seems a little better value and has a superior warranty. In fact, the Kia factory warranty of seven years/unlimited kilometres is an industry leader and makes for great long-term peace of mind.

If you’re happy with the way the Kia drives and works for your family, then there’s no reason not to make that your first choice.

This sounds awfully like a sensor problem of some sort. Electronic sensors really do control every aspect of a modern car, from the engine to the dashboard and everything in between. So, it’s conceivable that your problem is the fault of a single sensor that is throwing multiple things out of kilter and causing the problems.

But why the engine and dashboard at the same time? Because a car’s computer will often take its cues from a variety of sources. Without a properly functioning dashboard (and the information on road-speed the speedometer supplies to the computer) some engines won’t even run at all. The rough running and hard starting could be another symptom of this.

But don’t rule out something simple like a battery or charging system that is not pulling its weight. Low battery voltage can do strange and random things to a modern, electronically-controlled car.

That’s definitely higher consumption than I would have expected. Are you driving exclusively in stop-start traffic? If so, that would help explain your consumption, but even then, I’d expect it to be closer to nine or 10 litres per 100km, not 13.

On that basis, I’d be giving the engine a once over in terms of how its fuel-injectors are working and checking things like fuel filters and pump pressure. A car that is not allowing its engine to warm up properly can also use more fuel than it should, because the computer, sensing that the engine is cooler than it should be, richens the fuel-air mixture to compensate. The cause of that can be something as simple as a dud thermostat or a cooling fan that is not switching off when it should.

But the other potential piece of the puzzle could be related to your driving style. You claim that the engine never goes beyond 2500rpm, which could mean you are `lugging’ the engine; making it work too hard at too low a speed. Modern four-cylinder engines don’t mind a rev and, in fact, need to be revving beyond a certain speed to be in their happy, most fuel-efficient, zone.