The Holden Rodeo was a staple of The General's local line-up from 1980 all the way through to 2008, before an acrimonious split from long-time partner Isuzu required Holden to relinquish the name.
The first generation sold between 1980 and 1988, while the second gen Rodeo was built between 1988 and 2003. Isuzu actually stopped selling the vehicle in Japan in 1994, but it continued on as a Rodeo until the introduction of the third generation ute in 2003. Production for the third generation ute switched from Japan to Thailand, but after Isuzu decided the enter the Australian market on its own, Holden was forced to rename its ute the Colorado – only to watch Isuzu name its ute the D-Max. The Rodeo ranges in price from $3,080 for the Rodeo Lx to $11,990 for the Rodeo LT (4x4) 60th Anniversary.
The two holes near the bottom of the dipstick are your Low and Full markers. If the oil is below the Low marker (the bottom-most hole) then you need to add oil. If the oil level is above the Full marker hole, then the engine has too much oil in it.
It’s pretty important to keep the oil level between the two holes. If you do that, you’ll be doing the engine a big favour. Too little oil can damage internal components, while too much oil can blow seals, contaminate the engine’s intake system or create oil leaks.
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It remains a mystery to some of us why car makers ever switched from the old-fashioned manual levers for four-wheel-drive engagement to the rotary dial or electronic switch type. Pretty much everybody who has owned a 4X4 with the electronic engagement will have experienced a situation where the electronics just don’t seem to want to select four-wheel-drive when they should. This is usually a momentary problem, put right by trying the dial or switch a second time, but it’s still annoying.
Your problem is likely to be a poor electrical contact in either the selector dial or the actuators under the car that physically engage four-wheel-drive and/or low ratio. A quick check under the vehicle might expose a loose wire or broken fitting, but otherwise, a trip to a workshop that knows this make and model is your best bet. The good news is that the problem should be pretty quick, easy and cheap to fix once it’s been identified.
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The reason you can’t start the engine in second gear is for safety reasons. Car makers fit what’s called a Neutral or Park switch, which means the engine won’t crank unless the car is in Neutral or Park. That prevents the car starting in gear and taking off.
If the lever’s connection to the transmission has failed or become excessively worn, you can get the symptoms you have because the lever won’t select Neutral or Park. And therefore the engine won’t start.
However, it’s highly questionable that this is connected to the limp-home mode. That’s usually caused by a problem with the driveline that threatens to do more damage if you continue driving. The gear lever problem sounds more like a simple mechanical issue. Did both things happen at the same time? If not, they’re very probably not related.
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