If the problem goes away when you restart the car, it’s reasonable to assume that there’s something electronic that’s responding to the rest, or there’s something like a crank angle sensor that is getting hot, delivering bad information to the computer and then working fine again once it’s cooled down.

Have you had the vehicle scanned for fault codes? This should probably be your next step rather than simply changing more components that don’t turn out to be the problem. Meantime, don’t rule out things like the spark-plug leads or even a failing fuel pump. How about something from left-field. I’ve personally seen a dirty fuel filter allow a car to run perfectly for the first 10 kilometres, until the gunk built up on the filter element and stopped the fuel flow. Switching the engine off and then back on again, allowed all the rubbish to fall away from the element and the car would be perfect for another 10km. Until it wasn’t.

Let’s start with the basics here. Is your vehicle a petrol- or diesel-engined Rodeo? If it’s the former, you may have disturbed the wiring when changing the filter. So go back and check all the connections. If you can’t hear the pump whirring when you turn on the ignition, then you either have a fuse or wiring problem or the pump itself has died.

It’s pretty common for this to happen and most electric fuel pumps have a lifespan of something like 100,000km. But this can be a lot shorter if the car has ever been filled with contaminated fuel.

If your Rodeo is a diesel, there’s a chance it will need to be primed before it will restart after a filter change. That is, it needs to have any air in the fuel system removed before it will run. Locate the fuel filter in the engine bay, and you should see a small plunger at the top. With everything refitted, you can manually push on this plunger to prime the pump and remove any air. All things being equal, the engine should then start and run.

Speaking of back to basics, make sure you haven’t installed the new fuel filter the wrong way around. These only flow in one direction and installing it backwards will not allow the fuel to flow from the tank to the engine.

Something, somewhere in the vehicle (probably the driveline) is causing the car to go into what’s called limp-home mode. This is designed to limit speed and power and, therefore, protect the vehicle from further damage due to the original problem.

You may have a fuel problem or an exhaust problem or maybe there’s something wrong with the emissions control system, or even a simple electrical sensor that’s faulty. The point being that you won’t know what the actual problem is until you scan the vehicle to see what the computer has seen going wrong. Until then, you’re just guessing and the vehicle will continue to go into limp-home mode. These problems don’t fix themselves.