Holden Problems

You might find that the ignition barrel has collapsed internally, jamming the whole thing up and refusing to start the car. But before you call in the locksmith, try this: The ignition barrel on this car also operates the steering lock mechanism. If the key has been removed and the steering locked at a particular angle, you can have these very symptoms next time you try to start the car.

What’s happening is that the steering lock is resting against the little mechanism that frees it when you turn the key, making the key feel like it’s jammed. The solution is to pull the steering wheel one way or the other until you feel it move a millimetre or two. At that point, you might find the key will now turn freely.

If it’s only the low beam light not working and we’re not talking about crash damage here, then you can change the globe at home. You’ll need a H7 replacement globe for the Astra, and the blown left-hand side globe can be removed by undoing a small, plastic access hatch inside the engine bay at the back of the light, squeezing the spring clip that holds the globe in its mount, and then removing the wiring plug. Then, you take the new globe and reverse the process, being careful not to touch the glass part of the globe as that can damage the new globe.

That all sounds pretty simple and it is if you’ve done it before, but it’s also a bit fiddly if you’re a first-timer. But before spending money at a workshop to have the globe changed, check out some of the bigger chain auto parts stores. Many of these have a free fitting service for things like wiper blades and globes.

Based on probability, you either have a faulty oil filter which is not sealing properly, or there’s a crack or some other flaw in the boss (fitting) on the side of the engine that accepts the filter. Chances are the oil appears when the engine is cold and oil pressure is highest. The oil pressure (which all engines need to survive) is pushing the oil out through the weakest part of this assembly.

It’s not unknown for oil filters (especially cheaper brands) to have basic manufacturing flaws that allow them to leak, so that’s where I’d start my investigation.

Any vehicle of this age can start to experience wear in the turbocharger. These units live a very hard life, spinning around at something like 250,000pm and operating in a very hot environment. Cracks can occur in the housings, the bearings can wear and even the blades of the turbocharger itself can break or become bent. All of these things will affect performance. And, unfortunately, it sometimes doesn’t matter how well the vehicle has been maintained. Turbos have a finite lifespan and that’s all there is to it.

But don’t simply assume that a lack of performance is due to turbocharger failure or wear. Sometimes on this model, the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve, which is designed to re-burn some of the engine’s exhaust to reduce tailpipe emissions, can become stuck open, reducing boost pressure and, therefore, performance.

Many workshops specialise in turbo-diesels these days, and should be able to help with a diagnosis.

If the fluid in question was fuel, you have a petrol leak and a big opportunity for the engine to catch fire. If it was water, it could be condensation from the atmosphere or perhaps even residual water from when you last washed the car. If not, the water could have come from the car’s cooling system, at which point you have a coolant leak and that needs to be fixed before the engine overheats. If the fluid was oil, suspicions would be a leaking rocker cover gasket.

Fundamentally, there shouldn’t be any unexplained fluids in the engine bay or on the engine, and if there are, something is probably leaking. By the way, the fluid you notice could have actually been the cause of the misfire; spark plugs can misfire if they’re in contact with water or, especially, oil.

My money’s on the fluid, indeed, being oil. The park plugs on this engine are located deep inside the rocker cover. Any leak from the gasket on that cover allows the oil to pool in the spark plug tube, which means it’s a fair chance this is the cause of your misfire, too.

Commercial vehicles like the Colorado can often lead a much harder life than passenger vehicles. And that means some areas can wear faster, differential bearings being just one of them. A Colorado that has been used to carry heavy loads or tow heavy trailers could easily be showing wear in the differential at this point.

The other thing that destroys differentials is driving the vehicle through water crossings. As an off-road capable vehicle, this is pretty likely in a Colorado., What happens is that water can enter the differential housing through the breather tube and contaminate the diff’s oil. At which point, wear is accelerated as the differential gears and bearings are no longer receiving the lubrication they need. Floodwater is particularly bad for diffs as it also contains lots of tiny grit particles which act as grinding paste inside the differential.

Let’s get something straight right from the off: The Holden Calais and Holden Captiva are not close family members. While the Calais was an Australian-engineered and built car, the Captiva is a rebadged Daewoo and not a very good one at that. So don’t be tricked into thinking that because they both have a Holden badge and a V6 engine, that they’re peas from a pod.

The reality is the Captiva has an absolutely dreadful reputation in the trade for poor build quality and sketchy reliability. Most mechanics wouldn’t travel 500 metres to look at one, let alone 500 kilometres. I’d take a 231,000km Calais over any Captiva, old or new, any day.

Holden actually sold a lot of Captivas back in the day, mainly on price alone. But many who bought them then stood and watched as they things fell apart and soon began to cost plenty in repair bills. Doubtless there will be some out there who own and love their Captiva, but the reality is that these cars are best left well alone.

I can only hope so. Trying to start an engine with an obvious and large fuel leak like the one you’ve described is really tempting fate. This leak needs to be fixed before attempting to start or drive the vehicle as it’s a major fire hazard.

Even turning on the ignition will have the pump spraying fuel everywhere from the leak, so I’d disconnect the battery until the hose is repaired and the leak stopped. There’s a chance the computer has detected the lack of fuel pressure, but whether that’s what is preventing the engine turning over is another thing. You may have multiple problems.

You’re right that error code P0171 on this car equals an engine that is running too lean. That is, There’s either not enough fuel or too much air in the cylinders. On this engine, many owners have found that the PCV valve can fail, but also that the rocker cover itself can contribute to vacuum leaks. If you can hear air hissing anywhere, then a vacuum leak somewhere around the engine is a pretty good bet.

But let’s not forget that a lean mixture can be caused by not enough fuel, as well as too much air. In which case a check of the fuel filter, fuel pump delivery volume and pressure are warranted. You can also get a lean error code from a faulty or dirty MAF sensor in the engine’s intake system.

I’d say that you’re absolutely spot on that the rising level on your engine’s dipstick is caused by diesel getting into the sump. At this point, you have a problem because the diesel will be diluting the engine oil, meaning it won’t be lubricating the engine parts as well as it should. Leave it unchecked and eventually you’ll damage the engine internally.

There are a couple of major ways for this dilution to occur. Firstly, a worn, damaged or stuck fuel injector can dump excess fuel into the engine. At this point, the engine can’t burn it all, and some finds its way past the piston rings and into the engine’s sump.

The other common way for this to happen is when the vehicle’s Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) becomes full of soot and needs to regenerate (clean itself). If you haven’t been driving at highway speeds for a while, the exhaust system may not have got hot enough to force this regeneration. At that point, the computer will inject extra fuel into the engine to make the exhaust run hotter. And, again, some of this excess fuel can find its way into the sump.

An oil change is your best plan of attack, and then keep a close eye on the level of the dipstick. Any increase in level should not be ignored.