Holden Problems

If you look at the market for Holden’s long-wheelbase Statesman and Caprice models historically, it seems they do experience an uptick in value as they become older and rarer. But, then, that goes for a lot of makes and models, too.

The really collectible modern Holden models are more likely to be anything with a HSV badge or a Commodore SS with the V8 engine. The very last SS Commodores with the SS-V option (with better brakes) have already proved collectible, as has the super-rare HSV W427. That said, even these models have suffered the same value drop as many other cars post-Covid.

So will a late Caprice ever be collectible and valuable? Possibly, but you’ll be waiting a while. In reality, values of them could have a way to fall yet, before prices start heading upwards as collectability calls.

You might find you have two separate problems here. The plastic clip is one thing, but there’s no way a passenger seat would be locked into place with a plastic component. It will almost certainly involve a metal ring or clasp mounted to the floor around which the locking mechanism on the seat locks.

Here’s a possibility, though: perhaps the broken piece of plastic from the broken clip has somehow managed to work its way into the seat locking mechanism and is not allowing the seat to fully clamp into position. Fold the seat up and have a good look around at the clamps or locking rings in the floor. Even if it’s not the errant piece of plastic, you might find a build up of dust or mud is not allowing the seat to find its locked position.

The other chance is that the locking mechanism has somehow closed onto itself before it has found the locking ring. If that’s the case, you may be able to take a screwdriver and pry the lock open before trying to lock the seat back into place. Be careful, however, as these locking mechanisms are often spring loaded and will crush a finger placed in the wrong spot.

You may have a collection of problems rather than just a single one. The vibration through the steering wheel could simply be the vibrations from the diesel engine travelling up the steering column and into your hands. Does the vibration go away when you rev the engine to just off idle? If so, perhaps an adjustment to the idle speed is all that is required there to move the engine out of its resonant patch.

A vibration in the cabin could be a worn wheel bearing, out-of-balance driveline, a worn torque converter, broken or worn engine mount, broken exhaust mount, damaged tyre, a wheel out of balance and plenty more. But the play in the front driveshaft coupling would be a smart place to start looking. Again, the problem comes and goes because of the harmonic periods inherent in things that spin very quickly. Any out of balance problems can easily show up as transient vibrations inside the car.

A leak in the tail-light lens is a remarkably common problem in a lot of vehicles. It’s even more likely if the vehicle has previously been in a crash and the tail-lights replaced by cheap imported units. You’ll spot a leak like this by condensation that will form inside the lens on a warm day.

Your mechanic is correct, too, if water gets into the light unit, it can then make it into the boot or hatchback area. From there, it will wet the carpet or boot-liner and potentially run down inside the rear quarter panel or the area where the spare tyre lives, where it will sit and start the process of rusting the car’s metal. If there’s a musty smell when you open the hatch, then you probably have a leak and it needs to be fixed pronto.

You could have a fault with the car’s wiring. The starter-motor takes its power from the fat, red and black leads that attach to the battery, but it also needs a low-voltage signal from the ignition key that tells it to do its thing. If there’s any sort of loose or missing wire, you might not be making the necessary electrical connections. You could also find that there’s an on-board security system that is blocking the starter-motor from turning. You could even find that the ignition key has a flat battery and is not unlocking the car’s on-board computer.

You say that the battery has voltage, but I wonder how you checked this. You can often put a multimeter across the battery terminals and see 12 volts, but this can be what’s called a surface charge that’s strong enough to light up the dashboard, but then disappears when you put the battery under load (by trying to start the car). Attach the multimeter and check the voltage while actually trying to start the engine. You may find you have a dead battery after all.

Many cars will give a beep if they think the car has been locked with a door, bonnet, boot or window open, even slightly. But if you’re checked all that and everything is secure, the first thing to try is to reset the car’s body computer. The first way to try is to hold the lock button down on the remote for about 30 seconds. Sometimes this will force a reset.

If that doesn’t work, disconnect the car’s battery overnight and reconnect it next morning. You will have to rest your clock and radio station presets, but this will sometimes restore the computer to its factory settings. If none of that works, you may have a dud micro switch that’s giving the computer bad information, or the body computer itself may be on the way out.

For a start, it’s never a good idea to drag a car anywhere with the wheels, hand-brake and steering locked. You can damage anything from the transmission, steering column, driveline and even ruin (flat-spot) the tyres.

If the clicking noise when you drive it wasn’t there before, then a mechanic would suspect that there’s been damage done to the front driveshafts. This would be consistent with the car being forcibly dragged along the ground. If you’re worried, have a mechanic check the car over and send the repair bill to your (now possibly ex-) housemate.

When you look at how the Park setting works in an automatic transmission, you can see how this could happen. Basically, Park is engaged by a small pin that (typically) slides into the transmission’s output shaft and locks it, preventing the shaft from turning and effectively locking the drive wheels.

The problem is that the Park pin (also called a pawl) is almost comically small for the job it has to do. The point being that Park pawls have been known to fail, at which point, the car will be free to move if the park brake isn’t applied.

Best practice when parking an automatic car is to stop where you want to park, but leave the transmission in Drive and apply the foot brake. Then apply the park-brake, take your foot off the brake and let the park brake take the weight of the car. Then select Park. You’ll still have the security of being in Park, but you won’t have the car’s weight resting on that little park pawl.

You might be lucky and simply have a low transmission fluid level thanks to a leak, or perhaps even a selector that is not properly connected to the transmission.

But the fact that the transmission works in Reverse but not Drive suggests something internally wrong. You could be looking at a broken torque converter, failed clutch or band, a faulty pump, blocked valve body or even a broken gear set. A transmission specialist is going to be your best bet here.

It’s quite common for an oil pressure sensor to develop a fault where it sends the incorrect information to the car’s computer which then lights up the low oil pressure warning. But since you’ve already replaced this sensor, maybe that’s not the case here.

The big clue is that fresh oil and filters improved things a little, which makes me think it’s a genuine oil pressure problem. I also reckon you might be bang on the target by suggesting that it’s an oil pick-up problem. The oil pick-up lives in the sump of these engines and if the pick up inlet is blocked or partially blocked by sludge from the engine, it can fail to suck up enough oil to maintain the correct oil pressure. The higher the revs, the bigger the pressure shortfall. Failing that, sludge can block the various oilways around the engine that allow the oil to get to where it needs to be. Either way, you wind up with insufficient oil pressure and flow and risk destroying the engine.

I wouldn’t have thought 136,000km on an engine would have it showing signs of oil sludging, but that’s based on proper maintenance (not to mention that even modern diesels are filthy things inside). Have you owned the vehicle from new? Has it always been serviced correctly and promptly? If it’s been neglected (even one skipped oil change) it can develop the deadly sludge and it can be all downhill from there.

Possibly the best course of action would be to remove the sump and check the oil pick-up strainer for signs of gunk and build up. If that’s okay, then two or three quick oil changes (say, every 1000km) with an engine oil designed for trucks (which has lots of detergent as an additive) might clean things up internally enough to keep the oil pressure light at bay.

The other thing to try would be a new oil pump. Like any engine component, these can wear out over time and kilometres but, again, I wouldn’t expect to see significant wear on one that’s just 136,000km old. Other causes to consider would be excessive bearing clearance in the engine (due to wear or damage). In that case, a tear down and rebuild is the best option, because worn engine parts don’t repair themselves.