Holden Problems

There’s a variety of ways a turbocharged engine can lose boost. You might have a problem with the intercooler or even something simple like a dirty air filter. Don’t rule out a fuel supply problem which is causing the computer to reduce boost to account for a lack of fuel.

But one thing that has been noted in these cars is a cracked or broken boost pipe. If that happens, the boost will be lost to the atmosphere before it can get to the engine. Black smoke from the exhaust is a common accompaniment to this problem.

If the fluid in question was fuel, you have a petrol leak and a big opportunity for the engine to catch fire. If it was water, it could be condensation from the atmosphere or perhaps even residual water from when you last washed the car. If not, the water could have come from the car’s cooling system, at which point you have a coolant leak and that needs to be fixed before the engine overheats. If the fluid was oil, suspicions would be a leaking rocker cover gasket.

Fundamentally, there shouldn’t be any unexplained fluids in the engine bay or on the engine, and if there are, something is probably leaking. By the way, the fluid you notice could have actually been the cause of the misfire; spark plugs can misfire if they’re in contact with water or, especially, oil.

My money’s on the fluid, indeed, being oil. The park plugs on this engine are located deep inside the rocker cover. Any leak from the gasket on that cover allows the oil to pool in the spark plug tube, which means it’s a fair chance this is the cause of your misfire, too.

According to the information I have, the final drive ratio on this vehicle was 4.3:1. That means, for every revolution made by the wheels, the driveshaft (which links the transmission to those wheels) has to turn 4.3 times.

The filling point for this transmission is on top of the gearbox, under the ECU (drive-line computer). So, to access it, you’ll need to move the computer (which attaches to the battery tray) out of the way. Take lots of photos before removing bits and pieces so you’ll know how it all goes back together.

However, it’s doubtful that a lack of gearbox oil is your problem here. If the oil was low, the transmission would probably be making some seriously bad noises or would be completely seized up, not just refusing to shift out of reverse. The refusal to abandon reverse probably has more to do with a mechanical selector problem. But don’t rule out a worn or maladjusted clutch, either.

The coincidental nature of these faults would make most mechanics suspect the body computer is having a nervous breakdown. This computer is the one that controls functions ranging from central locking, the immobiliser, power windows, dashboard and even the entertainment system. It’s also responsible for the indicators, climate control and probably the gear selector. See the pattern?

And because the computer itself – rather than an individual component – has gone on the blink, it won’t always throw an error code. An auto electrician is the first place to visit as your diagnosis of an electrical fault is almost certainly spot on. Don’t rule out a simple bad earth connection, either, as these can also cause electronic havoc.

There are literally hundreds of reasons for a modern car to simply refuse to start. However, there’s one way to perhaps tell if the starter motor is the problem or not: When you turn the key, does the engine crank over? If it does, regardless of whether it starts or not, then the starter motor would appear to be fine.

If the engine doesn’t crank, the starter motor might still be okay, but you might have a flat battery or an electrical problem. Even a problem with the automatic gear selector (in the switch that that prevents the engine being started in gear) can cause a no-crank situation even though the starter motor itself is fine.

A good mechanic should be able to run a few tests and figure out pretty quickly what’s going on and what’s wrong. They will check the fuel system, ignition system and, of course, the starting system, and work it out from there.

It sounds very much like the ignition barrel has failed and is jamming the key inside. But it could be something else, too. Modern cars often have an interlock between the gear selector and the ignition key. If the car isn’t in Park, it won’t release the key as a means of making sure you leave the car in a safe state (where it can’t roll away). If any of the micro-switches and sensors that control this function have failed (or are in the process of failing) you might find that to be the cause.

Holden’s own service schedule for this model Captiva doesn’t specify a change interval for the differential oil. Instead, it recommends the oil be changed when required according to how the car is behaving. Which would suggest that your car is, indeed, ready for new differential oil.

As far as the scan goes, be sure not to confuse a sticking or non-engaging rear differential with the same behaviour from the centre differential. These are both technically differentials, but have vastly different roles to play. In the case of an electronically operated differential, the clutches can sometimes be replaced separately, but in any case, you need to go deep inside the differential, so while your mechanic is in there, have them check out the whole unit.

Let me guess: Your car is white, yes? This has been a real problem, not just for Holden, but also Toyota, Kia, Hyundai and even Honda (and possibly others) around the world. The problem is a chemical one in the white paint being used and it leads to delamination of the paint layers, with the white top coat either flaking, chipping or peeling off in great swathes.

Even some other colours have been noted succumbing to this process, but white seems to be the worst offender. Whether the problem is with the car’s preparation at the factory a function of a poor batch of paint from the supplier isn’t really known, but the finger is being pointed at the latter. Either way, it effectively destroys the resale value of your car as well as laying the car’s structure open to the elements.

The best advice is to contact Holden’s customer service department and perhaps even have the car professionally inspected (your state motoring club is a good place to start here). In the past, carmakers have been known to repaint affected cars at their own cost which, given your car’s garage history, shouldn’t be out of the question.

The answer is probably a pretty simple one in terms of what’s causing it. The warning light is to remind you to leave the car with Park engaged. So, the gear selector will have a tiny sensor or micro-switch that detects the selector in the Park position which is then conveyed to the car’s body computer. But if the sensor or switch is faulty or not adjusted correctly, the computer will think the car is not in Park and will light up the warning to alert you. The intermittent nature of the fault is what makes us think this is the case, combined with the fact that a quick flick of the T-bar button is enough to make the warning disappear.

So much for the cause, because the fix might be a bit more complicated. Depending on where the sensors and switches live, you may need to disassemble more of the car than would seem necessary to fix such a seemingly small problem. An auto electrician should be able to make sense of it.