Holden Problems

You might find that the ignition barrel has collapsed internally, jamming the whole thing up and refusing to start the car. But before you call in the locksmith, try this: The ignition barrel on this car also operates the steering lock mechanism. If the key has been removed and the steering locked at a particular angle, you can have these very symptoms next time you try to start the car.

What’s happening is that the steering lock is resting against the little mechanism that frees it when you turn the key, making the key feel like it’s jammed. The solution is to pull the steering wheel one way or the other until you feel it move a millimetre or two. At that point, you might find the key will now turn freely.

Based on probability, you either have a faulty oil filter which is not sealing properly, or there’s a crack or some other flaw in the boss (fitting) on the side of the engine that accepts the filter. Chances are the oil appears when the engine is cold and oil pressure is highest. The oil pressure (which all engines need to survive) is pushing the oil out through the weakest part of this assembly.

It’s not unknown for oil filters (especially cheaper brands) to have basic manufacturing flaws that allow them to leak, so that’s where I’d start my investigation.

Any vehicle of this age can start to experience wear in the turbocharger. These units live a very hard life, spinning around at something like 250,000pm and operating in a very hot environment. Cracks can occur in the housings, the bearings can wear and even the blades of the turbocharger itself can break or become bent. All of these things will affect performance. And, unfortunately, it sometimes doesn’t matter how well the vehicle has been maintained. Turbos have a finite lifespan and that’s all there is to it.

But don’t simply assume that a lack of performance is due to turbocharger failure or wear. Sometimes on this model, the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve, which is designed to re-burn some of the engine’s exhaust to reduce tailpipe emissions, can become stuck open, reducing boost pressure and, therefore, performance.

Many workshops specialise in turbo-diesels these days, and should be able to help with a diagnosis.

Commercial vehicles like the Colorado can often lead a much harder life than passenger vehicles. And that means some areas can wear faster, differential bearings being just one of them. A Colorado that has been used to carry heavy loads or tow heavy trailers could easily be showing wear in the differential at this point.

The other thing that destroys differentials is driving the vehicle through water crossings. As an off-road capable vehicle, this is pretty likely in a Colorado., What happens is that water can enter the differential housing through the breather tube and contaminate the diff’s oil. At which point, wear is accelerated as the differential gears and bearings are no longer receiving the lubrication they need. Floodwater is particularly bad for diffs as it also contains lots of tiny grit particles which act as grinding paste inside the differential.

Let’s get something straight right from the off: The Holden Calais and Holden Captiva are not close family members. While the Calais was an Australian-engineered and built car, the Captiva is a rebadged Daewoo and not a very good one at that. So don’t be tricked into thinking that because they both have a Holden badge and a V6 engine, that they’re peas from a pod.

The reality is the Captiva has an absolutely dreadful reputation in the trade for poor build quality and sketchy reliability. Most mechanics wouldn’t travel 500 metres to look at one, let alone 500 kilometres. I’d take a 231,000km Calais over any Captiva, old or new, any day.

Holden actually sold a lot of Captivas back in the day, mainly on price alone. But many who bought them then stood and watched as they things fell apart and soon began to cost plenty in repair bills. Doubtless there will be some out there who own and love their Captiva, but the reality is that these cars are best left well alone.

A leak in the tail-light lens is a remarkably common problem in a lot of vehicles. It’s even more likely if the vehicle has previously been in a crash and the tail-lights replaced by cheap imported units. You’ll spot a leak like this by condensation that will form inside the lens on a warm day.

Your mechanic is correct, too, if water gets into the light unit, it can then make it into the boot or hatchback area. From there, it will wet the carpet or boot-liner and potentially run down inside the rear quarter panel or the area where the spare tyre lives, where it will sit and start the process of rusting the car’s metal. If there’s a musty smell when you open the hatch, then you probably have a leak and it needs to be fixed pronto.

I can only hope so. Trying to start an engine with an obvious and large fuel leak like the one you’ve described is really tempting fate. This leak needs to be fixed before attempting to start or drive the vehicle as it’s a major fire hazard.

Even turning on the ignition will have the pump spraying fuel everywhere from the leak, so I’d disconnect the battery until the hose is repaired and the leak stopped. There’s a chance the computer has detected the lack of fuel pressure, but whether that’s what is preventing the engine turning over is another thing. You may have multiple problems.

For a start, it’s never a good idea to drag a car anywhere with the wheels, hand-brake and steering locked. You can damage anything from the transmission, steering column, driveline and even ruin (flat-spot) the tyres.

If the clicking noise when you drive it wasn’t there before, then a mechanic would suspect that there’s been damage done to the front driveshafts. This would be consistent with the car being forcibly dragged along the ground. If you’re worried, have a mechanic check the car over and send the repair bill to your (now possibly ex-) housemate.

I’d say that you’re absolutely spot on that the rising level on your engine’s dipstick is caused by diesel getting into the sump. At this point, you have a problem because the diesel will be diluting the engine oil, meaning it won’t be lubricating the engine parts as well as it should. Leave it unchecked and eventually you’ll damage the engine internally.

There are a couple of major ways for this dilution to occur. Firstly, a worn, damaged or stuck fuel injector can dump excess fuel into the engine. At this point, the engine can’t burn it all, and some finds its way past the piston rings and into the engine’s sump.

The other common way for this to happen is when the vehicle’s Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) becomes full of soot and needs to regenerate (clean itself). If you haven’t been driving at highway speeds for a while, the exhaust system may not have got hot enough to force this regeneration. At that point, the computer will inject extra fuel into the engine to make the exhaust run hotter. And, again, some of this excess fuel can find its way into the sump.

An oil change is your best plan of attack, and then keep a close eye on the level of the dipstick. Any increase in level should not be ignored.

It’s quite common for an oil pressure sensor to develop a fault where it sends the incorrect information to the car’s computer which then lights up the low oil pressure warning. But since you’ve already replaced this sensor, maybe that’s not the case here.

The big clue is that fresh oil and filters improved things a little, which makes me think it’s a genuine oil pressure problem. I also reckon you might be bang on the target by suggesting that it’s an oil pick-up problem. The oil pick-up lives in the sump of these engines and if the pick up inlet is blocked or partially blocked by sludge from the engine, it can fail to suck up enough oil to maintain the correct oil pressure. The higher the revs, the bigger the pressure shortfall. Failing that, sludge can block the various oilways around the engine that allow the oil to get to where it needs to be. Either way, you wind up with insufficient oil pressure and flow and risk destroying the engine.

I wouldn’t have thought 136,000km on an engine would have it showing signs of oil sludging, but that’s based on proper maintenance (not to mention that even modern diesels are filthy things inside). Have you owned the vehicle from new? Has it always been serviced correctly and promptly? If it’s been neglected (even one skipped oil change) it can develop the deadly sludge and it can be all downhill from there.

Possibly the best course of action would be to remove the sump and check the oil pick-up strainer for signs of gunk and build up. If that’s okay, then two or three quick oil changes (say, every 1000km) with an engine oil designed for trucks (which has lots of detergent as an additive) might clean things up internally enough to keep the oil pressure light at bay.

The other thing to try would be a new oil pump. Like any engine component, these can wear out over time and kilometres but, again, I wouldn’t expect to see significant wear on one that’s just 136,000km old. Other causes to consider would be excessive bearing clearance in the engine (due to wear or damage). In that case, a tear down and rebuild is the best option, because worn engine parts don’t repair themselves.