Ford Ranger Problems

All the feedback I’ve had Steve makes me think that these extended warranties are a waste of your money. They tend to be very cleverly worded to ensure that the things that typically go wrong with cars of this age are not covered.

Have a close look at the fine print and make a decision from there. But if the warranty doesn’t cover things like fuel-injector and fuel-pump problems, or diesel-particulate filter dramas (all big dollar items on a Ford Ranger) then I’d be asking some difficult questions. And then leaving with my money still in my pocket.

None of the vehicles you’ve listed are exactly low-maintenance units. They all have complex all-wheel-drive drivelines (which will be appreciated when towing a heavy trailer across a wet showground) and they use the latest common-rail diesel technology which is fairly intolerant of poor servicing.

As for a power tailgate on a ute, I’m afraid you’re out of luck. But some of the wagon versions of these vehicles can be optioned with powered tailgates. The catch there is that these vehicles use coil sprung rear axles (as opposed to the leaf-sprung ute versions) so they’re not as adept at towing. The Toyota Fortuner, for instance can’t match the HiLux’s 3.5-tonne limit and makes do with 2800kg; not enough for your requirements. The Ford Everest (based on the Ranger) is a little better at 3000kg, but still trails the Ranger’s 3500kg towing capacity and is right on your self-imposed minimum.

It could be the either the turbocharger or the injector pump at fault here. But equally, it could be an intake system blocked with oil and soot residue, a clogged exhaust system, worn or blocked fuel-injectors, a dirty air-filter, poor fuel quality. It could even be a dud sensor somewhere on the engine or even an electronic fault within the on-board computer. It might even be an engine that has worn out internals.

The first thing I’d do is interrogate the on-board computer to see if it offers up any fault codes that could be used to diagnose the problem. From there, it’s down to checking the mechanical stuff like the condition of the turbocharger (particularly its bearing) and even performing a leak-down and compression test to get an idea of the condition of the engine.

I have some not-so-good news for you, David. The US-spec Ranger has a driveline that allows the transfer-case to be placed in neutral-2WD. Australian Rangers don’t. And it’s really that simple.

Flat-towing an Aussie Ranger would mean that the automatic transmission would be spinning internally without lubrication. That’s because the oil pump that lubricates the transmission only operates when the car’s engine is running.

Modern four-wheel-drive tech has all but eliminated the neutral position in the transfer-case, so the vast majority of vehicles are in the same boat. Technically, you could flat-tow a vehicle with a manual transmission (because the gearbox is splash-lubricated, not pump-lubricated) but my contacts at Ford tell me that you’d void your new-car warranty in the process in the Ranger’s case.

So what are your flat-towing options? Something like a Jeep Wrangler or Suzuki Jimny might be okay (but I’d check with the manufacturer first) or find something older with an old-school transfer-case set-up that allows for a neutral position.

I’d be interested to know why Ford won’t help with your problem, but it’s a fact that there are some circumstances where a manufacturer isn’t obliged to fix a problem like this. If the problem has been caused by negligence or abuse on the part of the owner, then you begin to enter a very grey area. On the other hand, if the rust is due to a manufacturing fault such as poor rust-proofing at the factory, then it’s a different story.

I contacted Ford Australia about this, but without more information, the spokesperson could only really refer me to the warranty fine-print and, in particular, this couple of paragraphs:

• Ford will warrant a part which it finds to be defective in factory materials or workmanship under normal use and operation
• A part won’t be replaced as a consequence of the owner’s failure to maintain, use or operate the vehicle in accordance with recommendations and instructions.

Honestly, your email raises more questions than answers. Is the corrosion surface rust or actual rot in the metal? Has the car been used in the mining industry? Has it been used to launch boats into salt-water on a frequent basis? Has it been submerged in floodwater at any stage? Has it been badly damaged and repaired? On what basis did Ford deny your request to have the vehicle fixed under warranty?

As for your options, you could pay to have the chassis replaced, but that only makes me wonder about the rest of the metalwork in the vehicle. Or, you could talk to a consumer advocacy group and see what your legal options amount to. The real job will be convincing an arbitrator that the rust has been caused by poor quality rather than any owner abuse or negligence.

While it might sound like your car is haunted, I have actually come across this problem before and it’s not as rare as you might think. The clicking/tapping noise is actually caused by the actuator motor for the cabin-ventilation’s recirculation flap.

If any dirt or grease contaminates the internal electrical contacts inside the actuator (which is a little electric motor that opens and closes the flap) the actuator cannot electronically detect (or find) its parked position. So, it continues to cycle the flap, searching in vain for the contact that tells it to switch off. That continual cycling is what you can hear.

You can replace the actuator or, if you’re keen and a bit handy, you can remove the actuator from under the dashboard (near the glove-box) take the unit apart and clean the contacts to that it all works properly again. Or take it to a Ford dealership, as a 2018 anger should still be covered by the factory warranty (Ford upgraded the warranty to five years in 2018).

There are many things you should look out for before buying a second-hand workhorse like an XL 4x2 ute. Most never have an easy life.

Are there signs of abuse and/or neglect? How was the tray/load bed used, was it a tow vehicle and what does the type of wear and tear does it have?  Was the vehicle off the road at any time, and why? This may indicate a major accident.

Finding answers requires a level of trust and taking the vendor's word at face value, but you can back these up with service records and history. Are they complete, and carried out by a Ford dealer or specific Ford specialist? If the answer to either is no, then that should be a red flag. In our opinion, these vehicles require specialised Ford maintenance.

Furthermore, having 15,000km service intervals is a bit of a stretch for such hard-working vehicles, so skipped ones is especially worrying.

We also recommend taking the Ranger to an independent mechanic for inspection, especially to check the body and suspension underneath for signs of over-loading or off-roading. 

Since the PX generation was launched in 2011 Ford has issued many recalls for the Ranger, and some are serious, including for being a fire hazard over tall grass due to exposed exhaust. The car's service history will indicate whether all recalls have been carried. You can crosscheck them at this website: https://www.productsafety.gov.au/recalls 

Rangers are known to have issues with the automatic transmission, engine control module (ECM) failures (that send the truck into 'limp home mode' in hotter climates or after long-distance driving), air-conditioning, turbos and engine crank bearing. Most of these should be picked up by an experienced mechanical check-up before buying, or sorted out under warranty if you decide on a newer model.

This sort of advice applies to all used trucks. Fundamentally, the T6 Ranger is a solid, safe, durable, comfortable and enjoyable truck to own and drive, and remains the only one (along with the T6-based Mazda BT-50 from 2012 to mid-2020) that is designed, developed and engineered for Australian conditions, so don't be put off.

Just make sure it has history, ask pointed questions about how it's been used and don't be afraid to insist on a mechanic's report.

We hope this helps. Good luck.

I’ve heard of a couple problems with the ten-speed automatic in these Rangers; problems that could produce the problems you’ve noted.

From what I can gather through the trade, there has been a dealer bulletin regarding failures of and problems with the transmission’s torque converter. Without a functioning torque converter, it’s entirely possible that you could have experienced exactly the symptoms you’ve mentioned. The fact that the computer hasn’t logged a relevant code is a bit of a puzzle, but stranger things have happened. Apparently, there was a manufacturing problem with a batch of transmissions (some of which were sold in Australia) and that problem caused torque-converter failure.

The other problem my insiders have identified involves the front oil pump for the transmission. Again, without this functioning, the transmission lacks the oil pressure it needs to engage and provide drive. Like the torque converters, it seems there was a bad batch of oil pumps made with too much hardening applied to the teeth, which made them brittle and prone to breaking.

I’m tipping the dealership will have a pretty good idea of what’s going on and that it will involve either the oil pump or the torque converter. At least your vehicle is still under factory warranty.

So, going by your description, the engine has only just started before the vehicle rolls downhill to the first intersection. So the engine has only been running for a few seconds, and then only at idle. It’s possible that the transmission pump hasn’t had time to build up enough pressure to fill the accumulators to eliminate any slack in the shifting clutches and bands. Which could, on the odd occasion, produce a clunk when you hit the throttle for the first time on a cold transmission.

Honestly, though, this is a problem you see more in older cars with worn transmissions, and I wouldn’t expect it from a 2019 Ranger.

But let me ask you a question: Is the vehicle lifted on its suspension? Many Ranger owners opt to raise their cars for greater off-road performance, but this changes the angle of the driveshaft and can cause precisely the shudder you’ve described. The fix is to fit a spacer between the car’s body and the centre-bearing of the driveshaft. That corrects the angle of the driveshaft and stops the shudders.