Ford Problems

I’ve heard of this before, Sam, and it does seem that it’s caused by the lock-stops banging together and causing the noise you’re hearing. The lock-stop, meantime, is a simple, mechanical device that stops the front wheels turning too far, and to do that, it simply uses one piece of metal that literally bumps into another piece on full lock to prevent further movement. And that’s the noise you’re hearing. That it only happens on with the steering on full lock is the big clue here.

Greasing the bits of metal might quieten things down a bit, but I was under the impression that this model Ranger had little plastic caps on the metal parts to prevent the metal-on-metal contact and, therefore, the horrible noises. Either way, I’d be having an expert check the front suspension to make sure the noise isn’t coming for another, more sinister source. You can’t be too careful with this stuff and since the vehicle should still under warranty, what have you got to lose?

All the feedback I’ve had Steve makes me think that these extended warranties are a waste of your money. They tend to be very cleverly worded to ensure that the things that typically go wrong with cars of this age are not covered.

Have a close look at the fine print and make a decision from there. But if the warranty doesn’t cover things like fuel-injector and fuel-pump problems, or diesel-particulate filter dramas (all big dollar items on a Ford Ranger) then I’d be asking some difficult questions. And then leaving with my money still in my pocket.

None of the vehicles you’ve listed are exactly low-maintenance units. They all have complex all-wheel-drive drivelines (which will be appreciated when towing a heavy trailer across a wet showground) and they use the latest common-rail diesel technology which is fairly intolerant of poor servicing.

As for a power tailgate on a ute, I’m afraid you’re out of luck. But some of the wagon versions of these vehicles can be optioned with powered tailgates. The catch there is that these vehicles use coil sprung rear axles (as opposed to the leaf-sprung ute versions) so they’re not as adept at towing. The Toyota Fortuner, for instance can’t match the HiLux’s 3.5-tonne limit and makes do with 2800kg; not enough for your requirements. The Ford Everest (based on the Ranger) is a little better at 3000kg, but still trails the Ranger’s 3500kg towing capacity and is right on your self-imposed minimum.

Normally this would be an issue with the glow plugs, but the 2.5 turbo-diesel Rangers seem to occasionally have an issue with the assembly around the fuel filter (which includes the water trap and primer pump) sucking in air. This can be fixed by replacing the unit as a whole. Similarly Ranger owners have reported trouble cold-starting their 2.5 TD when the valve stopping fuel flowing back into the tank from the pump fails. Try priming your fuel system a couple of times before starting and if it starts up fine then replace that valve near the fuel pump. 

There could be a couple of things going on here. The first is that these engines were old-fashioned mechanical fuel-pump units, so they need to be primed. That involves getting all of the air out of the system before they can start to pump diesel again.

From memory, there’s a manual priming pump in the engine bay (I think near the fuel filter) and the idea is to hand-pump the primer until the plunger starts to feel solid (meaning there’s fuel, not air in there) and then crank the engine till it starts. It can take some time, though. This is precisely why it’s bad form to run an old-school diesel completely out of fuel. Make sure your battery and starter motor are up to the job, too.

The other possibility is that the new pump needs to be timed to the engine. In these set-ups, the pump not only creates the fuel pressure, it also provides the timing for each injector to fire into each cylinder. If this timing is out, the engine won’t run.

Beyond that, look for blocked filters, air leaks in the fuel hoses and blocked fuel lines from the tank. And if in doubt, take it to somebody who knows what they’re doing, because having high-pressure fuel spraying around the place is never a good idea.

The Ford Escape plug-in should be an interesting vehicle when it arrives, with 165kW of power and something like a 50km electric-only range. It will be here sometime this year, but the exact timing is still a trade secret.

The Toyota RAV4, meanwhile, isn’t a plug-in hybrid, so it can’t be recharged form your home solar panels (which the plug-in Escape could be). Frankly, if you’re making four times the power your household needs with your solar array, you’re in the pound seats for owning a plug-in hybrid which could put that excess electricity generation to very good use. That’s especially true if most of your driving is around town within a 20km radius or so of home-base.

That said, the new RAV4 Hybrid is gaining rave reviews as well as recording very sharp real-world fuel-economy figures. But a plug-in hybrid in a household with excess solar capacity could almost be run for free.

Theoretically, yes the transfer case could cause a clunk from the drivetrain, but without hearing the noise in person it is next to impossible to diagnose. You can find all recalls issued by Ford here. 

I’d be interested to know why Ford won’t help with your problem, but it’s a fact that there are some circumstances where a manufacturer isn’t obliged to fix a problem like this. If the problem has been caused by negligence or abuse on the part of the owner, then you begin to enter a very grey area. On the other hand, if the rust is due to a manufacturing fault such as poor rust-proofing at the factory, then it’s a different story.

I contacted Ford Australia about this, but without more information, the spokesperson could only really refer me to the warranty fine-print and, in particular, this couple of paragraphs:

• Ford will warrant a part which it finds to be defective in factory materials or workmanship under normal use and operation
• A part won’t be replaced as a consequence of the owner’s failure to maintain, use or operate the vehicle in accordance with recommendations and instructions.

Honestly, your email raises more questions than answers. Is the corrosion surface rust or actual rot in the metal? Has the car been used in the mining industry? Has it been used to launch boats into salt-water on a frequent basis? Has it been submerged in floodwater at any stage? Has it been badly damaged and repaired? On what basis did Ford deny your request to have the vehicle fixed under warranty?

As for your options, you could pay to have the chassis replaced, but that only makes me wonder about the rest of the metalwork in the vehicle. Or, you could talk to a consumer advocacy group and see what your legal options amount to. The real job will be convincing an arbitrator that the rust has been caused by poor quality rather than any owner abuse or negligence.

Computer-controlled engines like the one in your Falcon, Tony, require a range of sensors to provide the information to the computer to allow the engine to run properly. If just one of those sensors sneezes, the engine can shut down without warning.

As well as a throttle-position sensor, there are also camshaft-angle, crank-angle, air temperature, coolant temperature, oxygen sensors and more. So the best advice is not to start replacing the sensors one by one, but to have the computer interrogated electronically. The computer will be logging problems as they happen and should be able to tell you exactly which sensor is nodding off intermittently. A Ford dealership along with many independent workshops will have the computer-scan gear to do this. It will save you time and money in the long run.

For what it’s worth, since the car cuts out completely, my hunch would be the crank-angle sensor is overheating. So, if you want to persist with a home diagnosis, try this: Carry a bottle of cold water in the car. Then, the next time the engine cuts out, pour the cold water over the crank-angle sensor. If the car suddenly restarts, you’ve found your problem.

But to be honest, you could also be looking at a dud fuel pump, a blocked fuel filter and literally a hundred other possibilities.

The problem with all these vehicles, Darren, is that they seem to have covered huge distances (200,000km is a lot for a car that is just eight years old, no?). Also, some of them have covered those kilometres towing huge, heavy trailers and a full tray at the same time. So, the first piece of advice is to buy one that has a full service history and hasn’t been worked half to death. A Ranger with a huge bull-bar, suspension lift, winch and mud tyres, for instance, is a dead certainty to have been thrashed through the bush every weekend of its life. So be careful and take each vehicle on its merits and overall condition.

It seems you’ve heard of the Ranger’s engine troubles (overheating due to faulty EGR coolers and failed fuel injectors) but the Toyota three-litre turbo-diesel is not without its faults either. Cracked pistons between 100,000km and 150,000km are not unknown and, like any common-rail diesel, the Toyota’s engine can consume injectors at a frightening rate. The bottom line is that all these modern common-rail diesels are highly tuned and absolutely need their maintenance. Even then, they can fail, so it’s worth knowing.

For your purposes, Darren, I think the Ranger with its more powerful engine (147kW and 470Nm plays the Toyota’s 120kW and 343Nm) and much greater towing capacity (3500kg for the Ford, 2250kg for the Toyota) would be the smarter way to go.