Ford Problems

The security system in your Territory is automatically armed when you lock the doors, Martin. As well as the door locks, the system should also immobilise the vehicle electronically, preventing it from being started without the computer-coded key, even if a window is smashed to gain access.

As for an actual alarm where the lights flash and sirens sound if there’s an attempt to steal it, I’m afraid that wasn’t included on the Territory. Perhaps your car has an aftermarket alarm system that offers those functions, but if it does, you’ll need to contact the alarm’s manufacturer/importer for the instructions on how to make it work.

There’s no difference between the petrol engines in the 2011 Fiesta compared with the 2012 model. So, yes, they both require the same timing-belt changes. And yes, the interval is determined by which comes first, the 160,000km or the eight years.

As well as a fix, I’d also be looking for a new auto electrician, Troy. Every one of these problems can, I reckon, be traced back to the car’s body computer, a component that Ford had all sorts of trouble with in its Australian made cars over the years. It’s a well known problem, can be an intermittent one and will definitely produce the glitches you’re seeing. A new body computer can also often mean a new key which has to be electronically coded to the computer before anything will work again.

This generation of full-sized Fords was a bit notorious for body computer problems that have symptoms very much like the ones you’ve listed. Essentially, the body computer is responsible for all the communication between the car’s various systems, including air-conditioning, cruise-control, central locking and much, much more. If the computer fails, replacement is usually the only real fix. Sometimes you’ll need to have the ignition key re-coded to the new computer, as well. The price quoted sounds about par for the course form what I’ve heard.

I’m with you that a car that’s only five years old probably shouldn’t need new components like a body computer, but when your car was brand-new, it was covered only by a three-year factory warranty. Ford Australia extended its warranty to five years in 2018 (for cars sold after that date) but that’s of little use to you. Twisting the dealer’s arm probably won’t do much, but have you contacted Ford Australia’s customer service division and stated your case? It might be worth your while.

It could be the either the turbocharger or the injector pump at fault here. But equally, it could be an intake system blocked with oil and soot residue, a clogged exhaust system, worn or blocked fuel-injectors, a dirty air-filter, poor fuel quality. It could even be a dud sensor somewhere on the engine or even an electronic fault within the on-board computer. It might even be an engine that has worn out internals.

The first thing I’d do is interrogate the on-board computer to see if it offers up any fault codes that could be used to diagnose the problem. From there, it’s down to checking the mechanical stuff like the condition of the turbocharger (particularly its bearing) and even performing a leak-down and compression test to get an idea of the condition of the engine.

It sounds like the stability-control program is throwing up random fault codes that are telling the on-board computer that something’s wrong with this very important piece of safety technology. At that point, the protocol could be to send the car into limp-home mode to avoid having a faulty stability-control system create any problems that could cause a crash. But who knows, because there are literally hundreds of systems on a modern car that could cause this sort of malfunction.

Because the ESP light only comes on sometimes before the limp-home condition occurs, perhaps the two are related but not reliant on each other. While the engine limp-home mode is usually associated with a problem under the bonnet, the ESP light is more likely to be triggered by a problem with the braking or throttle-by-wire system. Certainly, the latter could also trigger a limp-home response from the engine.

Have the car scanned by a workshop and see what fault codes pop their heads up. That will save a lot of time and money compared with changing components until you find the one at fault.

Australian-delivered Fords didn’t get a five-year warranty until May 2018, so I’m assuming the warranty you’re talking about is an aftermarket one sold to you by the dealer when you bought the car a year ago. If so, then there’s very little chance that it will cover a failed clutch (or anything else much, for that matter) as these warranties are notoriously worthless. Disputing the ruling could well be a lost cause as the fine-print in the warranty will doubtless be written to favour the insurer.

However, I fail to see how a failed clutch could cause a manual gearbox to fail, other than if the clutch was slowly dying and you were forced, over a period of time, to be brutal with the gear-shifter to select gears that didn’t want to cooperate. There is the chance that a clutch-pack breaking to pieces inside a dual-clutch transmission could, indeed, cause such a catastrophic failure, but as you haven’t told me what type of gearbox is fitted to your car, it’s a bit hard to say. That said, the Kuga got the wet-clutch version of Ford’s dual-clutch and not the vastly more troublesome dry-clutch Powershift unit. For that reason, the Kuga was not part of the recall that Ford issued for Ecosports, Fiestas and Focusses for transmission failures.

While it might sound like your car is haunted, I have actually come across this problem before and it’s not as rare as you might think. The clicking/tapping noise is actually caused by the actuator motor for the cabin-ventilation’s recirculation flap.

If any dirt or grease contaminates the internal electrical contacts inside the actuator (which is a little electric motor that opens and closes the flap) the actuator cannot electronically detect (or find) its parked position. So, it continues to cycle the flap, searching in vain for the contact that tells it to switch off. That continual cycling is what you can hear.

You can replace the actuator or, if you’re keen and a bit handy, you can remove the actuator from under the dashboard (near the glove-box) take the unit apart and clean the contacts to that it all works properly again. Or take it to a Ford dealership, as a 2018 anger should still be covered by the factory warranty (Ford upgraded the warranty to five years in 2018).

A car with a little extra ground clearance is great for camping as it often allows you to get a little farther away from the masses in their caravans who tend to huddle around the shower block at bush campsites.

The Subaru Outback is a good, solid choice and if you can find an independent workshop to service it, you’ll avoid the cost of dealership prices. And you’re right, the all-wheel-drive would be great for gravel roads. Another vehicle to look at would be a late-model Ford territory diesel which is big and clever inside and has the option of all-wheel-drive. The diesel engine is a plus on the bush where that fuel is more readily available (in really remote areas) and gives you more range for big holidays in the mulga.

Don’t rule out things like the Mitsubishi Pajero, either, which won’t be as around-town friendly, but is a proven quantity and is absolutely tremendous off-road. The same goes for a Toyota Prado or Nissan Pathfinder prior to the current model (which is a bit less hard-core adventure).

There are many things you should look out for before buying a second-hand workhorse like an XL 4x2 ute. Most never have an easy life.

Are there signs of abuse and/or neglect? How was the tray/load bed used, was it a tow vehicle and what does the type of wear and tear does it have?  Was the vehicle off the road at any time, and why? This may indicate a major accident.

Finding answers requires a level of trust and taking the vendor's word at face value, but you can back these up with service records and history. Are they complete, and carried out by a Ford dealer or specific Ford specialist? If the answer to either is no, then that should be a red flag. In our opinion, these vehicles require specialised Ford maintenance.

Furthermore, having 15,000km service intervals is a bit of a stretch for such hard-working vehicles, so skipped ones is especially worrying.

We also recommend taking the Ranger to an independent mechanic for inspection, especially to check the body and suspension underneath for signs of over-loading or off-roading. 

Since the PX generation was launched in 2011 Ford has issued many recalls for the Ranger, and some are serious, including for being a fire hazard over tall grass due to exposed exhaust. The car's service history will indicate whether all recalls have been carried. You can crosscheck them at this website: https://www.productsafety.gov.au/recalls 

Rangers are known to have issues with the automatic transmission, engine control module (ECM) failures (that send the truck into 'limp home mode' in hotter climates or after long-distance driving), air-conditioning, turbos and engine crank bearing. Most of these should be picked up by an experienced mechanical check-up before buying, or sorted out under warranty if you decide on a newer model.

This sort of advice applies to all used trucks. Fundamentally, the T6 Ranger is a solid, safe, durable, comfortable and enjoyable truck to own and drive, and remains the only one (along with the T6-based Mazda BT-50 from 2012 to mid-2020) that is designed, developed and engineered for Australian conditions, so don't be put off.

Just make sure it has history, ask pointed questions about how it's been used and don't be afraid to insist on a mechanic's report.

We hope this helps. Good luck.