Ford Problems

The engine in your Territory uses a rubber timing belt which the trade recommends be changed every 100,000km. However, it’s not that simple. This engine also uses a second toothed rubber belt to drive the high-pressure fuel pump critical to the operation of a modern, common-rail diesel engine.

This second belt is located at the other end of the engine, between the engine and firewall, and the recommendation is also to change this belt at the same, 100,000km, interval.

Many owners also find the timing-belt change-point is a good time to change the water pump and thermostat at the same time to avoid disassembling the engine a second time should those components fail.

If everything is working properly, it’s less likely to be a stuck or fused relay as that would affect the operation of that circuit. In any case most relay-controlled circuits would probably be disconnected from the power source (the battery) when the car was not being used. Which, of course, brings the ignition switch into play as a suspect, on the basis that it might not be powering the car down fully when switched off.

Typically, problems like this are caused by boot lights or courtesy lights somewhere on the car staying on. In the Territory, these functions are controlled locally by micro-switches (on doors and tailgates etc) and in an overall sense by the body computer. Body computers on this generation of Ford have been known to fail, often with consequences for all sorts of functions including the central locking and possibly the courtesy lighting. Check the car on a dark night to see if there are any lights stuck on.

A security system/alarm is another great source of battery drain. Does the car have an aftermarket alarm? Even if it has just the factory security system, that would be worth checking as a cause for the battery drain. Is the car’s stereo powering down fully when you switch the ignition off? This can also be a cause of flat batteries. Again, the body computer might be the culprit.

The triangle symbol is universally used in the car world to suggest a problem. So, more universally, is the colour red. The combination of these is a sign that something, somewhere in your car, all is not well. Actually, on that model Falcon, the warning triangle will be lit as a yellow light for mild problems, and only switches to red for a major issue. Which is what you clearly have. This could be a major safety issue, so don’t ignore it.

You can either have a workshop or Ford dealer check this out for you, but the first step is to press the 'SEL' button which should take you to an information screen with more details about what the car thinks is wrong with itself. After that, it’s an electronic scan to home in on the problem.

The C-TEK brand has a huge reputation for performance and safety. I've personally had such a charger for more than 20 years which has been in use almost every single day of that time and still works perfectly. They're more expensive than some chargers, but the inbuilt protections against incorrect connection and overheating are worth the price, not to mention that longevity.

Some mechanics recommend connecting the two leads from the charger directly to the battery terminals, but conventional wisdom says that connecting the red cable to the positive terminal first and then the black cable to an earth somewhere in the engine bay is a better idea. This method means less chance of a spark igniting gasses emitted by the battery as it charges and discharges.

The indicator lights on the C-TEK unit will tell you when you've achieved a good connection. Using a metal part of the car for the negative attachment point works because the whole car is essentially one big negative terminal. Just make sure your attachment point isn't painted or coated with a chemical that prevents the flow of current. Or that it's not a plastic part (increasingly common these days). Many cars have a dedicated post or connection point within the engine bay.

That might do the trick, but there's actually an easier way to return the Everest's computer to the factory standard settings. It goes like this:

Start the vehicle and make sure it is in Park with the engine running. Then press 'Settings' on the SYNC screen. Then choose 'General' and scroll down to select 'Master Reset'. At this point, you should get a message on the screen that the reset will erase all previous settings and factory defaults will be restored. By pressing 'Continue' you're agreeing to this and you should then see the screen go blank for anything up to a few minutes while it reboots.

Mitsubishi’s L300 Express was available as a four-wheel-drive model way back in the 1980s (83 to 86) and was a very popular van to convert for camping thanks to that all-wheel-drive grip that allowed it to tackle rough roads with little problem. After 1986, a few of the later model Express 4WD vans (often badged Delica) made it into Australia as private imports, and there are a few of them around now to choose from.

The requirement to be able to stand up inside the vehicle will limit your choices a little, but popular vans like the Toyota HiAce, Ford Transit and Mercedes-Benz Vito were available in a high-roof configuration. Even though they lacked all-wheel-drive, generally rugged construction means they should cope with dirt roads pretty well. They just won’t have the grip for off-road work.

As with any second-hand commercial vehicle, try to find out what it did in its previous life. A van that has been used for hard labour might well be worn out. And don’t forget, nobody bought these things new for anything other than a working life.

If, on the other hand, you’re shipping for a brand-new van, there are plenty of options from Ford, Mercedes, Peugeot, Fiat, Toyota and more. The vast majority of them use a turbo-diesel engine so will be quite economical and many also offer an automatic transmission for ease of driving. Choose the one that suits your intended layout best in terms of side and rear doors and the ability to climb from the front seat into the van area without leaving the vehicle (some have cargo barriers that will prevent this).

Don't be so sure your car isn't covered by Ford's factory warranty. If it was delivered brand-new (as opposed to built) after May 1 of that year, it's subject to a five-year/unlimited kilometre warranty, so would still be covered. However, if it was delivered before that date, the warranty would have been three years or 100,000km which has now run out. Even so, given the kilometres and the service record, I think you'd be a good case to have Ford come to the party with some help on the repairs on a pro-rata basis.

From what you've told me, I'm guessing you've only dealt with Ford at the dealership level. Go over their heads and talk directly with Ford HQ's customer service department. A quote for $3500 just to examine the car is, on the surface of it, absurd and should be treated with suspicion. Any competent mechanic should be able to diagnose what's going on and whether or not the engine needs to be replaced. My advice here would be to have the car inspected by your state motoring club (the RACV in Victoria) which can give a cost-effective and independent report on the car's condition (and won't cost anything like $3500). This is also excellent legal and evidential back-up if the case does progress to VCAT.

On the face of it, 62,000km is not a reasonable lifespan for a fully serviced engine and the manufacturer should shoulder at least some of the cost of putting it right. Your last resort should be to contact the ACCC and talk to that body regarding your rights under Australia Consumer Law which covers goods (including cars) that are not built to a reasonable level of quality or are unfit for service. A failed engine at such mileage may well fall into that category.

I'm not sure what vehicle you're talking about, as Ford stopped making the Falcon ute in 2016, regardless of what fuel it ran on.

But, if your ute was made by Ford as a gas-dedicated vehicle (it was a factory option) then changing it back to petrol would be an enormous job with – as you have noted – the need to source a fuel tank and all the fuel-injection gear to work with petrol as opposed to LPG. Even making the fuel gauge work with petrol instead of LPG would require changes.

If your ute was dual-fuel (with the ability to run on either LPG and petrol) you could simply leave it as is and just run it on petrol, but a gas-dedicated ute needs to be converted to use petrol.

You'd almost certainly be better to sell your car and buy a Falcon ute that already runs on petrol. That said, don't write LPG off yet. As petrol and diesel prices continue to rise, LPG might just come back into fashion as a cheaper alternative fuel.

I'm not sure where you read that LPG would be phased out in the next two years, but the internet is full of misinformation and conspiracy theories. Be very careful what you believe. That said, since Australia isn't making any more cars, there won't be any LPG cars sold new, and anecdotally, finding a service station with LPG is becoming more difficult as electric cars become the new default alternative to petrol.

It’s a bit hard to go past an older Holden Commodore or Ford Falcon for this brief. That said, your towing requirement means you’d be best looking at something like an AU (1998 to 2003) Falcon Ute (assuming you only need to move one other person).

These are strong, simple cars that any mechanic can deal with and parts are plentiful and relatively cheap. There are other options (older Japanese dual-cabs) but nothing really gets close to the Aussie stuff for durability and running costs. An elderly Nissan Navara, for instance, might do the job but is likely to become fragile as it ages. A two-wheel-drive Toyota HiLux is another possibility, but you’d probably be right at the limit of your towing capacity with one of those. The Falcon ute, meanwhile, can legally tow 2300kg. It’s not glamorous or sexy, but it’ll do the job and stay on target price-wise.

The other obvious contender would be an early Mitsubishi Pajero with a V6 engine. These had a towing capacity of 2500kg and are around now for very little money, certainly within your budget. They also double as a very handy off-roader should you wish.

It will all depend on when in 2005 the Focus in question was built. Ford changed from the Mk1 Focus (LR model) to the all-new Mk2 Focus (LS model) in April of that year, so an early-build car will not be the same as the 2009 model, although a later-2005 one might be.

These two versions of the Focus were built on different wheelbases and platforms, so there may not be too much interchangeability. Certainly the bodies were quite different, so panels and interiors won't be interchangeable at all. Even the steering systems were different model-to-model. The Mk1 used conventional power-steering, while the Mk 2 switched to electro-hydraulic power-steering.

The compliance plate under the bonnet will tell you all you need to know about the car's build date. Visually, the earlier car had a much more angular style at the front with almost triangular headlights, while the later car was more upright and conventional looking.