Are you having problems with your Ford? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Ford issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Ford in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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The reason the car overheats under load or when travelling uphill is simply because it's defying gravity and, therefore, doing more work in those circumstances. Think of it as a person using a staircase. They'll go down the stairs easily, but they'll sweat more going up them, and more again going up the stairs with a suitcase under each arm. In a car's engine, hauling a load or driving uphill requires more throttle which, in turn, injects more fuel into the cylinders. And more fuel burned equals more heat. It's as simple as that.
If you've replaced the radiator, water pump and thermostat, you've started logically enough, but simply replacing bits and pieces is not the way to proceed as you've already discovered by replacing parts that were probably good (and didn't fix the problem). You could have a collapsed radiator hose (Were these replaced, too?) or a problem with the fuel-air ratio which can make a car run hot when it's under duress. The steering column sounds unrelated, but if the wiring to the dashboard was damaged during this process, it's possible that the temperature gauge is reading incorrectly and the engine may not be running hot at all. An electronic scan will be able to check the actual running temperature as well as uncovering any fault codes the computer has logged.
Don't rule out things like a build up of debris inside the cooling passages in the engine that could be blocking the flow of coolant. And a check of the radiator overflow bottle is a good idea. These have been known to perish and crack on Falcons, allowing some coolant to escape, leaving you with a low radiator level when you need it most.
All the information I can find on this car suggests that the towing limit (with a braked trailer) is 1600kg, not 2000kg as suggested by your source. At which point, you'd need to be pretty careful you didn't inadvertently overload the car by adding a toolbox or other gear to the trailer.
The Mondeo is not really the ideal vehicle for towing heavy loads as it's front-drive layout means it doesn't have the traction a rear-drive car does when towing. A slippery boat ramp, for instance, might pose no problem for a rear-drive car, while forcing a front-drive car trying to haul a boat out of the water to struggle with wheelspin.
That said, the turbo-diesel engine in the Mondeo is a strong, torquey thing, so provided you don't stray on to slippery or loose surfaces, the Mondeo should be able to do the job. Again, though, your 1500kg projected load is almost at the car's legal limit.
It's not just transmissions that cop a hiding when towing, either. Just about everything on the car from the brakes to the cooling system will wear faster when subjected to the extra strain of towing a big load.
It sounds as though the transmission itself has encountered an internal failure for that level of mayhem. Diesel versions of this model Mondeo were fitted with a six-speed double-clutch transmission otherwise known as the Powershift transmission. With a wet-clutch design, this gearbox was a lot more durable than the dry-clutch design used in many other Fords including the Focus and Fiesta, and the latter was a complete disaster with premature failures earning Ford Australia a caning at the hands of the ACCC.
But even the wet-clutch Powershift must be considered a liability to some extent, and failures like yours are absolutely possible. This won’t, however, be a cheap fix and you can expect the repairs to be a good chunk (if not more than) the retained value of the car. At which point, you have to make some very pragmatic decisions.
If you’re lucky, a transmission specialist might be able to determine that the problem is a simple one and fix it cheaply, so that’s worth a shot in the first instance. But don’t be surprised if the diagnosis is a lot less rosy than that.
Oil manufacturers recommend a 10W-50 semi-synthetic oil for this engine. But not just any 10W-50. Crucially, the oil needs to be formulated specifically for LPG engines which have different combustion by-products and, therefore, require a different additive package in their oil compared with a car running on petrol or diesel.
Your car has covered quite a distance, but modern metallurgy and engine design suggests that 330,000km is not too many kilometres these days, and the engine could have plenty left to give. If it's starting to use a little oil between services, you could consider going to a slightly thicker grade of oil to compensate, but make sure it's still specifically formulated for an engine running on LPG.
This sounds very much like a fuelling problem. Since a diesel engine has no ignition system (beyond its own compression) any fall off in performance can often be traced back to the fuel system.
The best bet is to take the vehicle to a diesel specialist that knows this make and model and will have either seen this exact set of symptoms before or will be able to make a logical diagnosis rather than just changing random parts that may or may not be the cause of the problem. Things that are likely causes, however, are the fuel filtering system, fuel pump and injectors. But don’t rule out something simple like a bad batch of fuel that is playing havoc with the entire system.
As both these model-years concern the same series of Focus, there would definitely be some interchangeability. Body panels should interchange readily (provided you don't try to fit the hatchback from a five-door to the boot of a four-door) and many interior fittings would also be able to be swapped (provided the interior colour and trim materials of the two cars matched).
Mechanically, however, you need to be a bit more careful. Obviously, there would be major differences between the driveline of the diesel version and the more common petrol model, but there will likely be differences to driveshafts and all sorts of components when you compare a manual Focus to an automatic one. Different trim levels can also cause interchangeability problems in terms of a base-model car not having the electrical wiring to support the convenience equipment of the upmarket version. Things like the power windows in the rear of a Focus Ghia, for instance, will cause problems in the base-model CL which relied on manual rear windows.
The piece of the puzzle you've left out here is whether your Courier has a petrol or diesel engine. If it's the former, you could simply be looking at a worn out engine. These four-cylinders worked pretty hard and once they become worn, they start to blow smoke and lose power. That said, it could be something as simple as a blocked air filter element or a slack fuel pump.
If the vehicle has a diesel engine, there's a chance the intake system is choked up with black soot and oil fumes which eventually narrow the engine's breathing passages like cholesterol blocks a person's blood vessels. Suddenly, the air can't get into the engine properly and the engine loses power as a result. Again, though, it could be something completely different and apparently random such as the turbocharger's plumbing having fallen off, leaving the engine with no boost.
A word of warning, though, about driving a diesel Courier flat out everywhere. These engines were under-cooled and are notorious for overheating. Driving it with the throttle pedal on the floor is asking for problems.
Luckily, your car is in the clear, and the LW Model Focus was the one with the hugely problematic dual-clutch transmission. In fact, these gearboxes were more or less ticking time bombs and more than half of them suffered – sometimes multiple – failures requiring replacement units. Ford was taken to task by the ACCC over its handling of the whole thing and was forced to quickly revise the Fiesta, Ecosport and Focus ranges. Which is why your car, the LZ model, has a turbocharged 1.5-litre engine and a conventional automatic transmission which is not only a better thing to drive, but also vastly less likely to fail prematurely and expensively.
Ford made the switch to the LZ model in 2015, largely as a response to the fearful reputation for transmission failures the LW model had gained. Our advice to anybody shopping for a Ford Focus (or Fiesta or Ecosport) is to absolutely avoid any example with the dual-clutch gearbox. Its demise will be a question of when, not if.
Perhaps you've been lucky and simply bought a freakish Focus without any DCT Powershift transmission problems. But when more than half the small Fords sold in Australia fitted with that transmission experiencing either single or multiple failures, I'm afraid the odds are stacked against you in the longer term. It seems there are two types of Focus Powershift transmissions: Those that have failed, and; those that will fail at some stage.
The price you paid is probably about where the market is now, but this is a car we can't recommend at any price.