Ask The Guide

Boy, there’s a big difference between a Toyota CH-R and an Isuzu MU-X, Kathy. Rarely would both those models make it to the same short-list. In any case, the problem you’ll face is that buying any brand-new car involves waving goodbye to a large chunk of its residual value the same day you drive it home for the first time.

Who is advising you to get rid of the Toyota? I’ve seen plenty of V6 Toyotas with more than 300,000km showing and still going strong. And if the mileage does worry you, what about finding a low-kilometre second-hand Aurion and pocketing the many thousands of dollars you’ve saved by not buying a brand-new car? You already know you love the way the Aurion drives (and its reliability is beyond question) it’s big enough for grand-kids and it’ll handle its share of dirt-road action.

If you can’t find an Aurion, a V6 Camry is a good alternative, offering a similar level of interior space, performance and lots of value for money. A later-model example will also have side-curtain air-bags to protect rear-seat passengers. And when the word honesty is used in the context of cars, a Toyota Camry is one of the first mental images to appear.

That’s a pretty broad brief, Jane. How cheap do you want to go? For instance, some Holden Commodores from the 1990s had lumbar support and cruise-control. They’re around now for as little as $1000. On paper, they fit your bill, but I’m sure you have other criteria that need to be met.

I don’t think this is an isolated problem, Andrea, as I’ve heard of exactly the same thing happening to other 200-Series Toyotas. From the look of things, this type of recurring limp-home-mode problem with the LandCruiser is usually down to one of three things.

The first is a damaged or faulty stepper motor which controls both the throttle and the variable vanes on the turbocharger. Sometimes the vanes can become stuck, refuse to budge and burn out the stepper motor’s electronics in the process. If there’s a problem with any of those components, the stepper motor – at the very least -t will need to be replaced. The advice there is to use the genuine Toyota part, not a cheaper copy.

The second possibility is a fault with the EGR valve, and the third is a faulty accelerator pedal which, unlike older cars, does not connect via a cable to the throttle, but ends an electronic signal to the car’s computer. Any glitch here can send the car into limp-home. The fact that you’ve had problems while in cruise control makes me suspect either the accelerator or stepper motor, so they’d be the components I’d be checking first. For what it’s worth, I reckon the police-scanner explanation is a load of rubbish.

You really need to go out and test drive both vehicles, because they both have their plusses and minuses and those will be graded according to your personal preferences. Overall, the RAV4 is a bigger vehicle (almost as big as the original Kluger, in fact) so that might come into the reckoning based purely on the size of your parking space at home.

The RAV4 rides a bit more softly but your choice of the range-topping VTi-LX in the Honda is a good one because that’s the only model in the line-up that includes autonomous emergency braking, lane-keeping and adaptive cruise-control. That said, the RAV4 has all those features, too, but extends them to the bulk of the models offered, not just the top-spec version.

On warranty and fuel economy, both compare pretty closely, so it will come down to the little things that you personally find important; things like the Honda’s doors that open almost to 90-degrees and the Toyota’s vast rear seat legroom and cavernous luggage space. Over to you.

Air-bags deploy according to what force the crash places on the car. There’s no hard and fast rule to this, because no two crashes are the same. So, the sensors that tell the air-bags to deploy take into account the amount of deceleration involved and compare that with a threshold reading to decide whether to deploy the bags or not.

A car travelling at very low speed that noses into a wire-rope barrier, for instance, may not decelerated sufficiently for the bags to go off. But the same car, travelling at the same low speed that is hit by a moving car coming the other way, is much more likely to deploy its air-bags.

And just because the side air-bags have deployed in a crash, doesn’t necessarily mean the front air-bags will also be deployed. Sometimes the front bags will go off in sympathy with the side air-bags, but if there was not sufficient forward deceleration, the front ones should remain intact.

However, the tule of thumb is this: In Australia, air-bags are designed to deploy at speeds above about 25km/h and, in the case of front air-bags, in any impact within roughly 30 degrees of the car’s direction of travel at the time.

A lot of cars have warning chimes, buzzers and bells to warn you of all sorts of things you have never even imagined going wrong. The Japanese manufacturers seem especially keen on them.

It could be an actual fault with a door-ajar or seat-belt warning chime or it could be a new habit the sat-nav has picked up. Have you checked the oil level and the level of coolant in the overflow-tank? Plenty of cars will warn you when these items need attention, and, since they’re not everyday events, this could be the first time you’ve experienced them.

You haven’t given me a lot to go on here, Matt. Is the vehicle a dual-cab, single-cab or cab-chassis? Is it two or four-wheel-drive? What trim level are we talking? Anyway, I’ll take an educated guess (based on the price) and suggest it’s a dual-cab all-wheel-drive. At which point, the price being asked seems about right for a vehicle with those kilometres. It does, however, sound like the licensed-dealer price, not a private-seller price. But again, I’m stabbing in the dark here.

Because some Volkswagen products from this era have a reliability cloud over them, the distance travelled is a big determinant of the asking price. More so than the year of manufacture, in fact.

Things to watch out for are gearbox problems and electronic glitches but, since the Amarok is an off-roader (and a pretty good one) you also need to learn how it’s been used by the previous owner. A heavily modified Amarok or one with a lift-kit, mud tyres and a dirty big winch bolted to the front of it is probably one to avoid when there are clean, never-been-off-road examples about for similar money.

You haven’t given me a lot to go on here, Matt. Is the vehicle a dual-cab, single-cab or cab-chassis? Is it two or four-wheel-drive? What trim level are we talking? Anyway, I’ll take an educated guess (based on the price) and suggest it’s a dual-cab all-wheel-drive. At which point, the price being asked seems about right for a vehicle with those kilometres. It does, however, sound like the licensed-dealer price, not a private-seller price. But again, I’m stabbing in the dark here.

Because some Volkswagen products from this era have a reliability cloud over them, the distance travelled is a big determinant of the asking price. More so than the year of manufacture, in fact.

Things to watch out for are gearbox problems and electronic glitches but, since the Amarok is an off-roader (and a pretty good one) you also need to learn how it’s been used by the previous owner. A heavily modified Amarok or one with a lift-kit, mud tyres and a dirty big winch bolted to the front of it is probably one to avoid when there are clean, never-been-off-road examples about for similar money.

It would be helpful to know the trim level of your car, Piri, as the trade-in price range from the ST 4X4 to the top-of-the-range Ti could be from around $15,000 up to $22,000. Also, without seeing the car in the flesh, it’s very difficult to make such a call on a car’s trade-in value. That said, at 140,000km, your car has pretty high kilometres for its age and that would play against it as a trade-in.

In the end, it might simply be the smart thing to do and just drive it till it falls apart, but you should know that these X-Trails are not the cheapest vehicles to maintain and keep running in perfect condition. The way Nissan laid out the driveline, in particular, sometimes means that what should be a little job is actually quite a big one. Bigger jobs mean more hours and, in a mechanical workshop, time is definitely money.

I would always approach a car’s manufacturer in a case like this, if only because 90,000km is not, in my estimation, an acceptable distance for a transmission to last before it needs total replacement. That said, I wouldn’t hold my breath in this case because the vehicle is well and truly out of warranty.

The other people I’d be talking to would be the RACV. The club will be very concerned to hear that a car it inspected has had such a major malfunction and may have some consumer advice of its own. Then again, if the inspection was a full 18 months ago, then again, I don’t like your chances. But it’s got to be worth a shot.

The other thing that bothers me is that the vehicle is an ex-fleet car, probably a rental car, so despite a full service history, that has to rate as a chequered past. The other part of the problem is that the mechanical layout of the X-Trail makes some repairs very time-consuming, and that’s a great way to jack up the price of any repair work. If it does turn out that you’re on your own, a second-hand gearbox from a wrecked X-Trail might be a better bet than a brand-new one.