Ask The Guide

This has cropped up before in relatively new Hyundais and seems to be a software – rather than a hardware – problem. The solution is to take the car to a Hyundai dealer who will be able to reload the unit’s software and all should be well.

I’ve also heard of the odd case where the entire head unit was replaced by Hyundai, but reloading the software (which should take only a few minutes) seems to be the most common fix.

A Volkswagen Golf that is already one year old will already have done a big chunk of its depreciating. The Corolla, on the other hand, will – like all brand-new cars – dump value like crazy. That said, both cars have a fair way to go in depreciation terms. Keeping them for just a year won’t help there, either, as you’ll effectively be maximising the amount you lose.

The trade regards the Corolla (as a Toyota) very highly and, as such, resale values tend to be better than a lot of cars. The VW Golf, meanwhile, still suffers from the stigma of the reliability problems many owners experienced and can be a little more difficult to unload without resorting to selling it to a wholesaler who will make you really understand what depreciation means.

Mazda recommends fully synthetic for its SkyActiv engines and 5W30 is one viscosity that is listed for this engine. It’s also worth noting that the Mazda engine requires oil that conforms to API (American Petroleum Institute) SL, SM or SN. Although these gradings have an American tag, they’re pretty universal in the industry and denote an oil that is up to a certain minimum standard of protection required by car-makers (Mazda included).

But before I bought any oil, I’d contact the workshop or dealership that did the most recent oil change or service and ask what brand and grade of oil was used. That way, you’re not mixing oils. Different oils have different additives, and mixing them can sometimes cancel out the benefits of these additives.

There may be those reading this who will question whether a new car like a 2019 Mazda should be needing top-up oil between oil changes. But it’s a fact of life that even modern, high-tech engines do consume a little oil between services. Modern all-alloy engines are possibly even a little oil-thirstier than their old-school, cast-iron predecessors. A smart car owner still makes a habit of dipping the engine oil every Saturday morning.

I’d also recommend using a quality, brand-name oil rather than the cheaper, supermarket-branded stuff. Oils ain't oils? Definitely not.

Any odd or new noises from an automatic transmission are, indeed, bad noises Gavin. Squealing or screeching from the gearbox can be caused by any number of things, but none of them are good and none of them are likely to go away on their own.

To be honest, I’ve heard of more problems with the Isuzu’s manual gearbox, with the fifth-gear synchro dragging and making a dry-bearing noise. The first thing I’d do is interrogate the car’s on-board computer to see if any fault codes show up and take it from there.

All the feedback I’ve had Steve makes me think that these extended warranties are a waste of your money. They tend to be very cleverly worded to ensure that the things that typically go wrong with cars of this age are not covered.

Have a close look at the fine print and make a decision from there. But if the warranty doesn’t cover things like fuel-injector and fuel-pump problems, or diesel-particulate filter dramas (all big dollar items on a Ford Ranger) then I’d be asking some difficult questions. And then leaving with my money still in my pocket.

Tesla certainly does things differently, starting with the cars themselves and extending right throughout the entire purchasing and ownership experience. Basically, Tesla has no dealerships per se, so, to buy a brand-new Tesla you go to the website, create an online account, design the specifics (options and colours) of the car you want and then place your order. And it’s all done electronically.

You then have three days to make any changes to the car’s specification, after which it’s pretty much locked down and Tesla will have begun assembling the bits and pieces that you’ve ordered. It’s after this three-day period that you’ll actually talk to a Tesla employee, who will guide you through the paperwork, payment options and delivery details.

In a way, it’s no different to any other form of online shopping but it does presume that Tesla buyers are also internet savvy enough to trust this process. After all, we’re not talking about pocket-money here, are we?

There could be a couple of things going on here. The first is that these engines were old-fashioned mechanical fuel-pump units, so they need to be primed. That involves getting all of the air out of the system before they can start to pump diesel again.

From memory, there’s a manual priming pump in the engine bay (I think near the fuel filter) and the idea is to hand-pump the primer until the plunger starts to feel solid (meaning there’s fuel, not air in there) and then crank the engine till it starts. It can take some time, though. This is precisely why it’s bad form to run an old-school diesel completely out of fuel. Make sure your battery and starter motor are up to the job, too.

The other possibility is that the new pump needs to be timed to the engine. In these set-ups, the pump not only creates the fuel pressure, it also provides the timing for each injector to fire into each cylinder. If this timing is out, the engine won’t run.

Beyond that, look for blocked filters, air leaks in the fuel hoses and blocked fuel lines from the tank. And if in doubt, take it to somebody who knows what they’re doing, because having high-pressure fuel spraying around the place is never a good idea.

These late Commodores (the very last of the locally-made Commodores, actually) do, in fact, have a history of fuel injector problems. Holden has claimed that poor quality fuel is the cause, but some technicians disagree, arguing that it’s a problem inherent in the injector’s design. Some owners have been told that it’s better to run these cars on 95 or 98-octane fuel, even though the LS3 V8 is rated to run on 91-octane ULP. But it seems even cars that have been run on the pricier brew are still recording problems with the injectors.

The faulty injectors send the engine into a potential lean-mixture situation, at which point the on-board computer intervenes and sends the car into limp-home mode to avoid engine damage. That’s why you’re seeing all those warning lights on the dashboard, while the injectors themselves are what’s causing the rough running you’ve reported.

There’s been no recall on Holden’s part, but the word on the street is that a Holden dealer will replace the injectors free of charge if you present the car at the dealership with the symptoms in evidence. Holden’s announcement that it will cease to trade in Australia should not affect this situation.

All three have their long suits, Adam. The Toyota is regarded as the safe buy in terms of reliability and retained value. The D-Max is highly regarded for its ruggedness and tough engine. And the Ranger is the relative sophisticate of the bunch with more on-road performance and a bit more refinement thrown in.

For on-road work, I’d probably take the Ranger over the others, but off-road, there’s very little in it. As far as off-road touring goes, all three will do the job and it will come down to personal preference. With that in mind, you need to put aside a weekend and visit all three showrooms and organise a decent test drive. There will be things you love and loathe about each, but again, it’s down to the individual.

You need to remember, though, that all these modern utes with their common-rail turbo-diesel engines require some pretty specific maintenance. In that sense, the greater saturation of Toyota dealers out in the sticks might sway you (although Ford has plenty of regional dealers, too).

I’m inclined to think your tyre store might be right, Anthony, and heavy vehicles like the Prado, especially if they’ve been used of-road can, in fact, damage their own rims to the point where the wheels aren’t perfectly round any longer. It would have been pretty obvious to the people fitting the tyres when the new tyres were balanced; the out-of-round rims would have made balancing them almost impossible. Don’t be fooled by the fact that the wobble happens at speed, because that’s simply a function of the harmonics in the wonky wheels building up to the point where you can feel it.

However, to answer your second question, yes, there are some other things to check before rushing out and buying new rims. Is the vehicle lifted on its suspension? If so, there’s a very good chance the wheel alignment settings (particularly the castor angle) can be thrown out. This needs to be corrected to maintain the vehicle’s stability at speed, and a wheel-wobble can sometimes show up as a symptom.

How are the suspension linkages and bushes generally? Worn bushes can easily cause a vehicle to wobble at speed, as can bent bits and pieces from off-road use. Another thing that can throw a wobble into the equation is an out-of-balance tail-shaft or worn CV joints and universal joints in the driveline (of which there is plenty in an all-wheel-drive Prado).

But if it is your wheel rims at fault, there’s probably not much else you can do but replace them. Sometimes a steel rim can be re-rolled or trued, but alloy wheels (which is probably what you have) are often throwaways once they’re bent out of shape.