Ask The Guide

The D-Max is pretty well regarded in the trade for its ability to go the distance, but modern, common-rail diesel technology has shown that a vehicle with fewer kilometres is usually a better bet than one with more. Although they do an amazing job in terms of power, torque, towing and fuel economy, today’s turbo-diesels are pretty highly strung in some ways and really need their maintenance. And the older they get, the more attention they seem to need in terms of new injectors, filters and pumps.

A D-Max with those kilometres might be ready for a pretty big (and expensive) service, too, so make sure your first trip in it isn’t going to be to a workshop. Ultimately, price, condition and service history should steer your decision as they should in any second-hand vehicle purchase. I’d take a vehicle with 150,000km with a full service history over a 60,000km one with no service records.

I’d love to know what a “certain distance” is. That would give me a much better chance of offering a sensible answer. If we’re talking 100km before the car loses drive, I’d be thinking that it’s something electrical perhaps or something to do with the on-board computer.

But if the loss of drive happens within the first 10 kilometres or so of each drive, then I’d be suspecting the transmission itself. Have you checked the level of the transmission fluid? Too much or not enough fluid in the gearbox can cause it to run hot enough to lose drive. Perhaps it’s the transmission cooler not behaving properly and maintaining things at the correct temperature.

Automatic gearboxes hate high temperatures and if you continue to drive it like this, there’s a good chance you’ll cook something.

The recommended service interval for this vehicle is every 10,000km. Roughly speaking, every second service is a bit more involved, so that suggests it’s more of a `major’ service. Either way, skipped services on a vehicle like this will be false economy in the longer term.

On the timing belt front, there’s good news and bad. The good news is that both the turbo-diesel and petrol V6 versions of the Colorado both use timing chains, so there’s no need to change a timing belt. The bad news is that the petrol version uses the Alloytech V6 which is renowned for its ability to stretch its own timing chain to the point where it needs costly replacement. This is a known fault with this engine.

A problem like this could be caused by any number of things, James. Electronically interrogating the on-board computer is a wise first step, as the error codes that will result will possibly lead you straight to the offending component.

In cars like yours with electronic fuel-injection and engine management, there’s an array of sensors that need to send the correct signal to the car’s on-bord brain for everything to function properly. Replacing these sensors one by one until you fix the problem is a very time and cash consuming way of proceeding. Have the car scanned instead and see what fault codes show up.

Meantime, if I had to venture a guess, I’s say the problem sounds ignition related. An engine will often idle properly with no load on it, but when you select a gear, there’s suddenly load applied and, if the ignition system is not spot on, the engine can suddenly do all sorts of crazy things, including dropping cylinders. The other thing that occurs to me is that your battery might be low on charge. Injected engines absolutely do not like a lack of volts.

A lot of cars seem to suffer from this. The fuel seems to back-up in the filler neck, and that’s what causes the bowser to click off (as a safety measure, to prevent fuel being sprayed around the forecourt). There are three things that seem to help with this.

The first is to place the bowser nozzle half way into the car’s fuel neck. Pushing it all the way in will often make the problem worse, and only half poking it in seems to have the effect of allowing the car to swallow the fuel faster without it backing up. The second thing to try is to insert the nozzle and then rotate it 90-degrees to one side or the other. Again, this seems to re-align the nozzle in the filler neck and can help. The third trick is to pull the trigger on the nozzle only part way. That slows the fuel flow down a little, but if it prevents the bowser continually clicking off, it’s still faster.

I have a question for you, David: Is the car a private import form Britain? I ask because you’ve quoted the distance covered in miles and the Opel Astra wasn’t sold in Australia until September 2012, while you say the car in question is a 2011 model.

In any case, the Astra we got in 2012 was an interesting car and one that drove pretty well, but it wasn’t really suited to Australian conditions. Plenty of them suffered failures of the water pump which, in our climate, soon led to overheating engines. The 1.4-litre turbocharged petrol engine was also a bit underdone power-wise and the turbo system could develop leaks. There was also a big problem with manual transmission failures, the first sign of which is a whining noise coming form the gearbox. Oh, and the car was also involved in the Takata air-bag fiasco.

The whole idea of introducing the Opel brand to Australia turned out to be a huge flop for General Motors and the whole thing crashed and burned after just a little over 12 months.

Despite the Mazda 3 growing in size over the years (and gaining about 100kg depending on the model and specification) the boot size hasn’t improved in the 11 years between the models you’ve asked about.

The 2007 Mazda 3 sedan had a boot measuring 416 litres, while its 2018 opposite number could fit eight litres less with a total of 408 litres. The 2018 hatchback had even less luggage capacity with just 308 litres.

As an aside, when comparing boot sizes, it’s important to know the exact method the manufacturer has used to arrive at the figure in the brochure. There are different methods and they have a huge effect on the outcome. Presumably, Mazda hasn’t changed its measurement method over the years, so the comparison in this case stands.

A lot of cars don’t like having a battery that is low on charge or being jump-started. Either of these things can cause the body computer or even the main ECU to start playing up. My guess in this case would be the body-computer which controls the dashboard functions and things like the central locking system.

Before you rush out and pay a mechanic to look at the vehicle, there are a couple of things to try. The first is to take the remote-control for the central locking and hold the button down for at least 30 seconds. Sometimes this is enough to reset the computer and return the vehicle to normal.

If that doesn’t work, get the engine up to temperature, shut it down and carefully disconnect the battery. Leave it that way for at least 30 minutes, reconnect the battery and see if that has produced a reset. You might find the car will run a bit roughly (mainly at idle) at first until the reset computer relearns a few parameters, so be careful on the first drive after trying any of this.

If you’re referring to the little light in the shape of an engine, or a `check-engine’ light, then you have at least one problem that the computer is identifying and warning you about. It’s the vehicle’s way of letting you know that something needs to be attended to.

But what exactly? Well, the best way to find out what’s wrong is to have the vehicle scanned electronically, at which point the computer should give up all the car’s dirty little secrets. Sometimes the fix will be very simple, at other times it can be a result of a major system failures. Either way, it needs to be checked before the damage becomes more extensive and/or the car becomes unroadworthy.

The book price for such a vehicle is really anywhere from $2000 to $4000. Exceptionally well-kept, low-kilometre examples will bring more, tatty ex-work trucks might even be worth less than the lower of those numbers. A quarter of a million kilometres is not ‘just around the block’ either, so you really need to take each example on its individual merits when shopping for something as old as this.

The engines, both the diesel and petrol V6, in this model Triton are both capable of long lives provided they’ve been serviced properly, but there’s the next catch. As cars and utes become less and less valuable, they tend to get serviced more and more infrequently.

Problems you could encounter will run from everything from worn out suspension to rusty bodies, smoky engines, tired gearboxes, shredded interiors and everything else. In fact, if it can go wrong on a vehicle, then it’ll probably go wrong on an old, very second-hand work ute. You might also find that getting it up to a roadworthy condition will cost more than the vehicle itself is worth. At which point, something newer and slightly more expensive might start to look pretty good.