Ask The Guide

The problem could be caused by a whole lot of things, Bill. Have the vehicle scanned to see if any error codes crop up which could then lead you to something like a dodgy fuel pump, worn injectors, a leak in the fuel system somewhere or even a crook sensor that is feeding incorrect information to the computer. To be honest, I’m suspecting a broken throttle-position sensor (TPS), especially as you need to floor the throttle to get the engine to start. Without the TPS working properly, the computer has no way of knowing how much fuel to inject into the engine.

It sounds very much like a computer problem rather than a hardware issue. When you switch the engine off and then back on again, you’re actually rebooting the on-board computer. I’d be trying a replacement ECU module (borrowed from another Ranger) to see if that fixes the problem. The problem is that because the reboot fixes the issue (temporarily) it might also re-set the computer’s memory, meaning it can’t `remember’ what went wrong and, therefore, won’t offer up the correct fault codes when you scan it. That said, I’d definitely give it a scan and see what pops up.

I can’t see why not, Peter. The 1996 and 1999 are more or less identical cars so there should be a high degree of interchangeability. While manual versions of the Commodore Ute form this era did, indeed, change gearbox types as the years progressed, the automatic version stuck with the same unit, so the gearbox and all its ancillary bits and pieces should be a straight swap.

And how good is a ute with a bench seat for three and a column-shift? Car makers should revisit this layout as it makes so much sense.

The only smart thing to do here is to have the car scanned at a workshop with the necessary computer gear and see what the fault codes suggest. You could try for years to second-guess what has caused this problem, and still not come up with the correct answer. The possible causes number in the hundreds, but a scan will hopefully take the guesswork out of a diagnosis.

I’ve actually experienced this on a brand-new Colorado (during an evaluation drive, no less). In this case it turned out to be a couple of loose fasteners in the front end, which were fixed quickly and permanently. In your case, though, it seems as though even with everything checked and tightened, the noise is still there.

So maybe it’s not something as obvious as a loose coupling or fitting. Maybe you’re looking at noisy shock absorbers. Sometimes these components can contribute a clunk, but it’s usually when they’re worn out, not on a six-month-old vehicle. Does the noise occur in a straight line or with some steering lock applied? Perhaps the steering lock stops are the culprits. I’d be putting the vehicle back on a hoist and checking that everything from the engine mounts to the cross-member and the steering rack to the transmission mounts are torqued to the correct values. Don’t rule out silly things like a loose tub or tray, either; sometimes a clunk in the rear of a vehicle can be transmitted down a chassis rail to sound like it’s coming from the front somewhere.

It sounds like the brake-light switch is at fault. These are usually located somewhere in the pedal assembly under the dashboard and, when you push the brake pedal, this simple on-off switch activates the brake lights. If the switch is jammed or stuck, it could cause the brake lights to remain on and cause your flat battery. I’d go with this theory first since a short, sharp whack on the brake pedal turns the lights off, suggesting that it’s a sticky switch that’s your problem.

You could try to lubricate the switch with a spray lubricant, but in most cases, the permanent fix is to replace the actual switch. It’s not a huge job and shouldn’t cost too much. That said, your car should still be under factory warranty, so it’s the dealer’s job to fix it.

A lack of power from the battery to the starter motor can be caused by a range of things starting with the physical stuff like the cabling, terminals or ignition switch, and winding up with a fault in the immobiliser or the on-board computer, for instance. Sluggish performance, meantime, can be any number of things, and just to list them all would take hours.

So, before you go out and spend more money replacing components that may or may not be at fault, have the car scanned at a workshop and see what fault codes it throws up. From there, you’ll have a much better idea of what’s going wrong.

The description `plug and play’ is used to describe a replacement ECU which is designed to simply plug into the car and immediately offer full functionality without requiring additional coding or set-up. That’s why they include things such as ignition keys and sensors; it’s to avoid having to code your existing components to the new ECU. You simply replace the lot and – hopefully – turn the key and enjoy.

So, yes, it’s possible, but you need to make sure you’re getting every component necessary for the swap and that the unit is correct for your car in every detail. The are detail differences between the ECU for a car with an automatic transmission and the same car with a manual, for instance. And always buy from a known source so you can get tech support if it doesn’t all go exactly to plan. Buying from an online clearing house is unlikely to provide the same level of after-sales service.

A thermatic fan is designed to run only when it’s needed. As the name suggests, it should switch on when the engine attains a pre-set temperature and then turn off below that temperature. It’s a way of having the engine run at a more constant temperature as well as saving the power normally used to run a fan that isn’t needed the whole time. Sometimes, a second electric fan will cut in when you turn the air-conditioning on, but the short answer is no, a thematic fan should not run all the time.

Short of a broken or degraded window seal, check the door rubbers for signs of damage. Sometimes, it’s as simple as a small twig or even a thick blade of grass sticking to the rubber seals that will allow water in. However, there’s a more likely answer. If it was the front-seat foot-wells that were wet, I’d be blaming the air-conditioning vent that is supposed to drain the water - that builds up in the system - to under the car, but can sometimes lock or clog and run the water into the car.

So let me ask you a question: Does your car have a sunroof? If the answer is yes, that’s where I’d be looking. The sunroof, being set into the roof panel, naturally collects water when it rains. So, there are tubes that run from the sunroof, down the rear pillars of the car and vent to the outside just in front of the rear wheels. If these drain tubes block up, the water will run down the outside of them and into the rear foot-wells. Cleaning out the tubes will usually fix the problem.