Ask The Guide

Those are quite high kilometres for this model Prado, but all things considered, the price seems pretty reasonable. It will all depend on the overall condition of the vehicle, how it’s been used and how it’s been serviced. Make sure it hasn’t been battered to death underneath through off-road use and make sure the service handbook is up to date and not full of gaps where services have been skipped.

While the vast majority of Prado sales were automatics, there’s a core of die-hard manual enthusiasts out there, so there will always be a demand for the vehicle you’re looking at. The other thing that affects resale value is the accessories attached to the vehicle. But beware a Prado bearing a winch, mud tyres, lifted suspension and side-rails; it’s probably spent a lot of time off road.

While it might sound like your car is haunted, I have actually come across this problem before and it’s not as rare as you might think. The clicking/tapping noise is actually caused by the actuator motor for the cabin-ventilation’s recirculation flap.

If any dirt or grease contaminates the internal electrical contacts inside the actuator (which is a little electric motor that opens and closes the flap) the actuator cannot electronically detect (or find) its parked position. So, it continues to cycle the flap, searching in vain for the contact that tells it to switch off. That continual cycling is what you can hear.

You can replace the actuator or, if you’re keen and a bit handy, you can remove the actuator from under the dashboard (near the glove-box) take the unit apart and clean the contacts to that it all works properly again. Or take it to a Ford dealership, as a 2018 anger should still be covered by the factory warranty (Ford upgraded the warranty to five years in 2018).

If you’re happy with the Mazda 6 wagon – and it sounds like you are - then there’s a good case for sticking with the Mazda brand. And if that’s the case, the next thing to consider is which model and body style. Given your requirement for a car that is easier to get in and out of, I reckon a mid-sized SUV might make the most sense since it’s footprint will be similar to the Mazda 6 you have now, but it sits you higher and more upright. On that basis, the Mazda CX-5 seems the natural choice.

If you go for the petrol-engined Touring model, you’ll get all-wheel-drive for extra grip and safety as well as keyless entry and start where you can open the vehicle and start the engine without even taking the key from your pocket. Very convenient. If you can afford a little more, the GT model gets you the powered front seats you need and these even have a memory function that will automatically adjust them to either your or your husband’s preferred settings as a one-button job. Again, very convenient. The GT model also get a powered tailgate which was also on your must-have list. About the only thing missing is the full-sized spare wheel, and all Mazda CX-5s use a space-saver spare. But be honest, are you going to change a flat tyre yourself, or call roadside assistance? And when was the last time you experienced a flat tyre anyway?

If the gearbox won’t shift gears, then the vehicle won’t be able to accelerate any further once the engine has reached its maximum speed in the gear in which it’s stuck. That’s probably (I’m guessing) why the car feels like it won’t go any faster.

There are any number of reasons for an automatic gearbox to remain in one gear and refuse to shift. They start with low transmission fluid and go all the way up to a major internal failure or even a computer-related problem. There’s no real way to diagnose these possibilities remotely, so you really need to get the vehicle to somebody who specialises in automatic transmissions and get them to take a close look and diagnose the problem.

If it’s a major problem with the gearbox, your decision then becomes one of whether the vehicle itself is in good enough condition to warrant spending the money. A major job such as a new transmission and the labour to fit it could easily wind up costing more than the car is worth. Sometimes you’re better off scrapping the vehicle, cutting your losses and moving on to something newer and safer.

This needs to be fixed fast, Toni, as a car’s exhaust fumes are a deadly cocktail of gasses. Enough exposure to them can make you pass out (an obvious problem when you’re driving) or worse. Diesel engines are generally a bit smellier than a petrol engine, but no exhaust fumes should ever enter the car.

You’re either getting fumes drawn into the car via a faulty seal that is allowing exhaust fumes in, or the smell you’re experiencing is fumes in the engine-bay coming through the firewall. You need to inspect all the rubber seals around the doors and hatchback and search underneath the car and in the engine bay for a split or missing rubber bung or grommet that is letting the outside in.

The other question I have is whether the smell is the result of exhaust fumes or, in fact, the smell of unburnt diesel fuel. Diesel cars often acquire a diesel-fuel smell over time and the cause is hard to avoid. Because diesel doesn’t evaporate, the ground around the diesel pump at a service station is usually one big oily, diesel slick. When you fill your car, you unavoidably stand in this slick which is then transferred to the car’s carpet when you get back in. It’s not as crazy as it sounds, and it may be the clue you’re missing to explain the smell.

One of the gripes with the Honda HR-V (I’ll assume that’s the model you’re talking about; there is no Honda HR-C) is that you need to pay for the very top-shelf model before you get the full safety package. In the HR-V’s case, that includes full forward-collision warning, autonomous braking and lane-departure warning. The catch is, you can’t even pay extra and option this package of the lower sped models.

In any case, it’s academic from your point of view, Noel, because even the range-topping VTi-LX misses out on rear-cross traffic alert, blind-spot monitoring and the active cruise-control you’re looking for. Plenty of the competition has these features and no doubt when Honda replaces the current model HR-V, those features will get a look in.

I think that a Kia Rio would be an excellent choice as a first car. Especially since a Rio built in the time frame you’re looking at will still have a big chunk of its factory warranty left to run. The Kia seven-year/unlimited kilometre warranty is the best around, really, and provided the car you buy has a complete service record, that warranty will be real peace of mind.

Also, the Rio is known to be a good, solid car that has a good reputation for reliability and durability. The Skoda Fabia, meantime, suffers from the poor reputation of is dual-clutch transmission. The Fabia is also a bit of an orphan in Australia, meaning that it’s largely overlooked by buyers. That means it will potentially be more difficult to unload when you daughter looks to upgrade her car in a few years.

The early VE model Commodore V6s certainly had all sorts of dramas with stretched timing chains that could run into thousands of dollars to fix. Holden changed the design of the chain and while it did help, we’ve still heard of later post-2008 model Commodore V6s exhibiting the same problem.

The problem is made worse (accelerated) by poor servicing, so if the vehicle in question doesn’t have an absolutely up-to-date service handbook with evidence of every scheduled service being carried out in full, we’d be walking away. Same goes for a car that rattles on first start-up, won’t idle properly or has a check-engine light illuminated on the dashboard.

The vast majority of Nissan Patrols from 2006 have covered a lot more than 172,000km, so that’s definitely one thing in the vehicle’s favour. These seem to be a pretty good thing over time and kilometres as well, but there are still a few things to be wary of. The first of those is how the vehicle has actually been used in the past. Has it been used extensively off-road? Climb underneath and check for damage caused by rocks and try to gauge how hard a life the Patrol has had.

The other thing to bear in mind is that there were two diesel engines offered in this model. The biggest, a 4.2-litre turbo-diesel is a pretty good thing and tough enough to survive. The smaller unit, though, a three-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel doesn’t enjoy the same reputation for reliability and longevity. In fact, the smaller diesel is notorious for suffering an incorrect air-fuel mixture and/or turbo-boost spikes which can smash the pistons to bits. At which point the whole engine is junk. Should this happen, you might find that the cost of repairs is more than the actual value of the whole vehicle.

So that’s the bottom line: If the engine is a six-cylinder, it’s probably worth a punt if it’s cheap enough. If the engine is a four-cylinder, you might be wise to look for an expert on these engines to examine it and give a recommendation in person.

This model Patrol was also entangled in the Takata air-bag fiasco, so make sure the air-bags have been checked and replaced if necessary before driving it anywhere.

The vast majority of complaints regarding the Holden Adventra emanate from under the bonnet. In the case of the V8 version (the CX8) the engine is a bit prone to experiencing wear in the top-end of the motor, namely the lifters and valves springs. A ticking noise when the car is first started each morning is the clue to this and although a lot of these engines will, indeed, make this noise on start-up, if the noise doesn’t go away in a few seconds, you have a problem.

The V6 (CX6) meanwhile which was available in the later version used the DOHC Alloytech engine which soon gained a reputation for stretched timing chains which needed to be replaced at a fairly substantial cost. The first hint that all is not well is a rattling noise from the top of the engine, combined (often) with a check-engine light illuminated on the dashboard.

Beyond those issues, many owners have complained about poor fuel economy and patchy build quality. Make sure, too, that any prospective purchase hasn’t been used off-road beyond its limits. Just because it used a higher ride height and all-wheel-drive did not mean the Adventra was a hard-core off-roader.