Ask The Guide

You’re on the right track here and it does appear that your car suddenly thinks it’s about to crash and triggers the Autonomous Emergency Braking (AEB) system to avoid the phantom prang. And it does that by automatically slamming on the brakes. Again, you’re right when you suggest that if other cars had been around at the time, the car’s attempts to avoid a crash may, indeed, have caused one.

I have a couple of questions for you: Does this problem occur when you’re driving with the active cruise-control engaged? And, does it happen when driving on a downhill section of road that then begins to level out? If the answers bare yes, then you’re not alone, because those are the precise circumstances reported by more than a dozen 2018 Polo owners in the US. The theory is that the levelling terrain is detected by the car’s sensors, causing it to confuse the undulating road with a potential collision threat. Calibration and set-up is critical in these sophisticated modern AEB systems, and something is not right with your car. I doubt that rebooting the system (as the dealer has suggested) will make much difference if the sensors are angled or calibrated incorrectly.

Honda has experienced similar problems with its 2014 and 2015 CR-V model which also had the potential to confuse inanimate roadside objects (like wheelie-bins) with potential crash obstacles, and produced a similar response from the car. Honda has actually recalled those CR-Vs in Australia to deal with this, but Volkswagen Australia does not appear to have followed suit, telling me that it hasn’t seen any cases of this yet (at head office level).

Honestly, I don’t blame you for refusing to take the car back. I wouldn’t want to be driving around in a car that could suddenly, and without any warning or legitimate reason, apply its own brakes as if there was an emergency. I’d be short-cutting the dealer and going straight to VW Australia’s customer service division and spelling it out.

Your problem may be related to a relay, but the usual cause of flickering DRLs and dashboard lighting (the LED type) is a faulty capacitor within the vehicle’s wiring loom. A faulty capacitor will deliver an unstable (fluctuating rather than steady) voltage to the LEDs and that’s what causes them to flicker.

Some owners choose to add an aftermarket section of wiring loom with a capacitor within it, but I’d first try to find the offending component in the car’s existing wiring and tackle the problem that way.

The short answer to your question Rhonda is that the 2009 Captiva was far from a good car. It has experienced lots of reliability and durability problems and, although some will disagree, there are much better choices out there.

The Captiva has been recalled for all manner of problems including (but not limited to) steering issues, braking dramas and electrical gremlins. About the best thing about the 2009 four-cylinder petrol Captiva was that the engine didn’t have the timing chain problems of the V6 model, and the transmission wasn’t as problematic as the later Captiva. But that’s surely damning with faint praise.

The Captiva wasn’t actually a Holden at all; it was built in South Korea by Daewoo, a brand considered to be way behind the quality and engineering of its South Korean counterparts Kia and Hyundai. And it showed.

In Victoria, a licensed motor car trader (LMCT) has to provide a statutory warranty of three months or 5000km (whichever comes first) for any used passenger car that has travelled less than 160,000km or is less than 10 years old. The catch is that the warranty is provided by that car trader, so in theory, the car has to be returned to that car-yard in order to have warranty repairs carried out. Certainly, the selling dealer reserves the right under law to attend to the repairs themselves if they wish. Clearly, though, that’s just not practical in your case.

What normally happens in a situation such as yours, Alex, is that any warranty repairs are assessed and sorted by a mechanic more local to you and then the bill is sent to the trader from whom you bought the car. However, this all needs to be organised with the selling dealer before you go and have any work done on the car. There needs to be agreement from the selling trader that he or she is prepared to cover the cost of those repairs. What most people in your situation do is make such an agreement part of the purchase contract at the time they buy the vehicle.

I’ve had a flick through the BT-50 owner’s manual (and I suggest you do the same) and all I can find relating to a transmission warning light is a single 'powertrain warning lamp' which suggests something is not right somewhere along the length of the powertrain. Sometimes this light will come on in conjunction with the 'check-engine' light and it indicates that either a sensor has failed or there’s an actual problem with the hardware. Beyond that, the light doesn’t offer any suggestions on what might be wrong, but bear in mind that the four-wheel-drive system in this vehicle is electronically operated, so there’s lot of scope for errors.

A scan at a workshop should offer up some answers, but before you do that, just check that you haven’t bumped the rotary four-wheel-drive selector dial and have triggered the system into a mode it doesn’t like being in right now.

There’s absolutely no correlation between body styles (hatchback versus sedan) and the propensity for leaking brake cylinders. The difference between your mum’s and your previous car and the Tiida is probably all down to the quality of the parts, not whether it’s a hatch or sedan.

Brake cylinders leak when the rubber seals inside them fail. But because the cylinder is hidden within the brake drum, a leak is often only found when the car is being serviced or inspected for a roadworthy certificate. And as you’ve found, that’s often too late to prevent the brake shoes becoming contaminated by the leaking brake fluid.

The best way to avoid leaking brake cylinders is to have the braking system flushed regularly. It’s also important to replace any leaking wheel cylinder with a good quality unit. I’m tipping the reason your cylinders failed the second time was because the original ones were replaced with cheapies (possibly sourced online) which simply weren’t as good as the Nissan originals. Always beware when buying replacement parts of any sort that they’re good quality, particularly when it comes to critical safety systems like brakes.

If the engine is still revving up but the car isn’t moving, logic says you have a transmission (gearbox) problem. Transmission problems are very well known in the Holden Cruze, and must surely be classified as an inherent fault. Fundamentally, the automatic transmission in your car was a dud from day one, and Holden even announced an extended warranty for it as part of a special service program to replace consumer confidence in the unit. It didn’t work.

Many Cruzes exhibited the precise behaviour you experienced, and the loss of all drive as well as the check-engine light illuminating are classic indicators of a transmission that either needs new components such as sensors, a valve body or torque converter, or is totally done and needs to be completely replaced. An inspection will be able to determine this. Error code P0776 is what I’m tipping the car will offer up when it’s electronically scanned (which should be your next step).

Once Holden had fixed these transmissions, it was extending the warranty to five years from when the car first entered service or 150,000km, whichever came first. Obviously, your car is older than that, but it has covered low kilometres and since you’ve had it from new and can verify its service history with a Holden dealer, I reckon it would be worth your while to contact Holden’s customer service division and state your case. Let’s face it, less than 120,000km on a modern car before the transmission blows up is not really good enough, is it?

You may not get anywhere, but even if you can convince Holden to help with the cost of parts (labour would be nice, too) the financial picture changes dramatically. Without a bit of help from Holden, it may just be that the cost of repairs will be higher than the actual value of the car itself.

If the vehicle has been serviced at a Mercedes-Benz dealer, all the information about that history can be accessed online. Any dealer should be able to tap into that history file and tell you what you need to know. You can also establish (if you haven’t already) a `Mercedes me’ account via the factory website and this will enable you to check out the car’s entire service background. A dealer will be able to help you establish your Mercedes me account.

If you’re after an owner’s manual, there’s one included on the car’s hard-drive if the vehicle is fitted with the Mercedes Command system (which was standard on the Power trim level and optional on the Progressive) which you can access via the info-screen in the dashboard. Failing that, this link will get you top the relevant online subject matter.

The first thought here is that you’re dealing with a dodgy throttle-position sensor or some other sensor that is giving the on-board computer a reason not to exceed 2500rpm. Or tricking the computer into thinking that the engine is spinning faster than it really is. Have you had the vehicle scanned? It’s a cheap way of reducing a lot of the guesswork in a case like this.

Like any engine, of course, a turbo-diesel won’t rev beyond the speed that the fuel supply can support. You say you’ve changed the fuel filter, but have you checked the pump pressure and the fuel-delivery rate? A problem with the pump or fuel lines could easily produce the symptoms you have. You could even have a blocked fuel pick-up in the tank.

The other problem with modern turbo-diesels is that they are prone to clogging their intake systems with a black gunk that is a by-product of soot and oil mist from the vehicle’s exhaust-gas recirculation and crankcase-ventilation systems respectively. This black, ooze can sometimes almost completely block the intake path for air entering the engine and will cause all sorts of dramas, including the one you’re seeing.

The brake master cylinder fitted to your Prado uses an accumulator to ensure that there’s always some brake pressure available to enable the ABS braking to work instantaneously and seamlessly. You should be able to hear the pump running (probably the gurgling sound you’re reporting) from time to time, but not every time you press the brake pedal.

You may need a new master cylinder, but it’s also possible that there’s air in the system and it requires bleeding. There’s a specific procedure for bleeding this type of master cylinder, and it’s not the same as that for a conventional vacuum-boosted master cylinder.

In any case, your information that nobody reconditions these units any longer is incorrect. There’s an operation called Injectronics that can, indeed, recondition and test your existing master cylinder, usually for less than $2000. That, I would suggest, is your best path forward. Check out injectronics.com.au