Holden Reviews

Milky oil is a big hint that the engine’s oil and coolant are mixing, suggesting a cracked block, cylinder head or blown head gasket. But just because the oil has not turned milky does not rule out a head gasket leak, as the coolant can sometimes find its way into the combustion chamber(s) rather than the sump (oil-pan).

What would be interesting to know is if the coolant disappears in a week of normal driving, or even if the car is left to stand for the week. If it’s the latter, then you more likely have an external leak somewhere in the cooling system’s maze of hoses, pipes, radiators and catch-tanks.

The first thing to do is conduct a pressure test on the cooling system. This involves topping up the coolant and then using air to pressurise the system to see where the coolant appears from. You may find it’s something as simple as a loose hose clamp or a cracked plastic catch-tank.

If that doesn’t provide any hints there’s a kit called a TK Test which samples the coolant to see if there are any gasses (from the combustion process) that shouldn’t be there. If they are present, you probably have a head gasket leak. But don’t rush to that conclusion yet.

Since you’ve been driving manual cars for many years now, you’ll be aware that some gearshifts are just better than others. However, none should be causing you to apply lots of force just to select a gear.

You could be dealing with a worn clutch which is making selection difficult, or a selector mechanism (cables, linkages and pivots) that are worn or have run out of lubricant. Even the adjustment of the shift cables can cause a problem like this.

I’d start with lubricating everything that connects the gearstick to the transmission and work the lever through the gears a few times to see if the lubricant makes any difference. If not, you might have to dig a bit deeper, checking for frayed shift cables of frozen joints. If you’re really unlucky, you may have wear or damage inside the gearbox that is making it difficult to select first gear.

But in the meantime, you can try this trick. When you’re stopped at the lights and ready to select first, instead of going straight for that gear, slip the lever into second for a brief moment and then try for first. Sometimes, this can assist selecting first, as you’re using the synchromesh on second to help with engaging first. This is often a great trick for a worn transmission.

A quick test will tell you whether the alternator is sending charge to the battery. If it isn’t, then you need to start checking the wiring and things like the whether the car is earthed properly. Perhaps there’s a blown fuse of circuit breaker that is preventing the flow of charge from the alternator to the battery.

If the alternator is, in fact, charging the battery when the engine is running, then you’re looking for a problem such as an aftermarket alarm or a boot light or some other electrical gremlin that is draining the battery overnight. It would also be worth checking that the new battery and alternator for correct operation and capacity. It wouldn’t be the first time a brand-new component has been faulty, fitted to a car and then confounded the mechanic responsible.