Toyota Problems

The model Kluger you are referring to uses an engine with the code-name 3MZ-FE. It uses a timing belt rather than a timing chain, so it requires periodic belt changes. This is especially important as the version of the engine fitted to your car is an interference type. That means that the pistons cannot move freely up and down if the camshafts aren’t also turning and, if the belt breaks while the engine is running, the ensuing collision between pistons and valves will probably destroy the engine.

Toyota recommends a timing-belt change every 150,000km which is actually pretty good compared with many other engines which require a new belt closer to every 100,000km or even less. The other piece of advice is to replace the belt tensioners and water pump while the engine is apart for the timing-belt replacement. It’s a lot cheaper to replace those items at that point, rather than having to open the engine up again down the track.

You’ve layed out some challenging requirements here. You’d like a small SUV with a bit of ride comfort and clearly a bit of performance too, given your question about the i30 N.
I think you’ll find the ride harsh on the i30 N, especially since you found the ride on the Kona harsh already. Keep in mind the i30 N is a hot hatch and has the suspension to match.
I find the Subaru XV has very nice ride comfort for the small SUV segment, but I also feel that you will be disappointed with the performance from its 2.0-litre engine. You may also want to consider the new Hybrid Toyota C-HR. The Hybrid drive gives it a smidge of extra kick and it’s a fuel consumption hero, too.
For a better blend of performance and ride, really only the Volkswagen T-Roc and Skoda Karoq are going to excel in the small SUV crowd. In terms of ownership both now have five year warranties, and you can (and should) pre-package five years of servicing on top at a discount.

The MY2020 Toyota Tacoma towing capacity is listed by the manufacturer as 6400kg. That’s been made possible by Toyota fitting V6 versions of the Tacoma with an engine, transmission and power-steering coolers as well as a larger, 130-amp alternator.

Those are quite high kilometres for this model Prado, but all things considered, the price seems pretty reasonable. It will all depend on the overall condition of the vehicle, how it’s been used and how it’s been serviced. Make sure it hasn’t been battered to death underneath through off-road use and make sure the service handbook is up to date and not full of gaps where services have been skipped.

While the vast majority of Prado sales were automatics, there’s a core of die-hard manual enthusiasts out there, so there will always be a demand for the vehicle you’re looking at. The other thing that affects resale value is the accessories attached to the vehicle. But beware a Prado bearing a winch, mud tyres, lifted suspension and side-rails; it’s probably spent a lot of time off road.

Disconnecting the battery to change it means that power to the stereo system was lost for the duration of that procedure. It’s not uncommon to have to re-code the stereo to make it all work again, so that sounds like what you need to do. The code for the stereo will be a multi-digit number and is often recorded in the owner’s manual or the handbook for the stereo itself.

The odd thing is that the codes are often stored in this manner, because ironically, the code system was originally used to combat stereo theft from parked cars. If the crooks couldn’t code the stereo to work after they’d pinched it, there was no point stealing it in the first place. Which kind of makes storing the code in the glovebox a bit of a joke. If you can’t find the code, a Toyota dealer should be able to take the vehicle’s VIN and tell you the code from that.

A car with a little extra ground clearance is great for camping as it often allows you to get a little farther away from the masses in their caravans who tend to huddle around the shower block at bush campsites.

The Subaru Outback is a good, solid choice and if you can find an independent workshop to service it, you’ll avoid the cost of dealership prices. And you’re right, the all-wheel-drive would be great for gravel roads. Another vehicle to look at would be a late-model Ford territory diesel which is big and clever inside and has the option of all-wheel-drive. The diesel engine is a plus on the bush where that fuel is more readily available (in really remote areas) and gives you more range for big holidays in the mulga.

Don’t rule out things like the Mitsubishi Pajero, either, which won’t be as around-town friendly, but is a proven quantity and is absolutely tremendous off-road. The same goes for a Toyota Prado or Nissan Pathfinder prior to the current model (which is a bit less hard-core adventure).

To maximise the Toyota Highlander’s towing capacity, you need to option the 3.5-litre V6 engine and specify the optional towing package. At that point, you can use the Highlander to tow a braked trailer of 2270kg. Interestingly, even the Hybrid version of the Highlander is rated to tow 1600kg, something that not all manufacturers will allow in their hybrid models. The anomaly with the Highlander, though, is that the two highest-spec models trim-wise aren’t offered with a factory tow-bar option as this would interfere with the automatic tailgate triggering sensors that live just under the rear of the car…right where the tow-bar would be bolted.

It would seem very strange to me that an almost-new Toyota V6 engine would be burning oil to the extent that a new short motor would be required. And it seems that wasn’t the problem anyway, but I agree that more than a litre per 1500km is too much. Had the short motor (pistons and piston-rings) been the problem, the new short motor should have fixed it, but a leak-down and compression test should have given a few clues, too. In any case, the dealer should now be looking for the real source of the problem. I’d be starting with the valve-stem seals or valve guides which are part of the cylinder head and aren’t replaced when a new short motor is fitted (because the original cylinder heads are retained). I’d also be checking the operation of the PCV (crankcase ventilation valve) which can also make oil disappear if it’s faulty.

As for your next step, well, thank goodness for new-car warranties, eh? Basically, you’re covered whatever happens because that’s how warranties work. It’s up to the dealer to decide what steps it takes from here, but while ever the dealer is trying to fix the problem, you need to give them the chance to do so. It would be nice if you were provided with a replacement vehicle while yours is being assessed or fixed, and I’d definitely be asking for that much. Have you contacted Toyota Australia’s customer service number? Sometimes you’ll have a quicker resolution if head office gets involved. The other option if you’re really unhappy with how things are progressing is to contact the ACCC.

Buying the dealership’s paint protection certainly won’t do any harm, Sue, but it can be expensive as mark-ups are often huge for these products. You might do better with an aftermarket paint protection product from an independent specialist. But here’s the proposition I’d be putting to the dealer selling the car: If you can’t, in 2020, sell me a car that won’t fade or have its paint peel off, I fear we are wasting each other’s time. In fact, you could make the same argument for all those dealership add-ons, the upholstery protection, window tint and extended warranties.

Here’s another fact to consider: Regardless of whether you do or don’t buy the paint protection, the car’s finish is protected by the factory warranty just as the rest of the car is protected against faulty parts of poor assembly. Toyota even spells it out, saying that the factory warranty covers every part, panel or factory accessory. So you’ll only ever need the optional paint protection after the factory warranty has run out. Will a paint protection applied now be of any use five years – and a couple of hundred car-washes – down the track? That’s up to you.