Nissan Problems

If the noise sounds like a dull thud or knock from deep within the engine, then I have bad news. Something inside the engine is probably trying to get out. And if it does, the engine will be instantly turned to junk. The worse news is that it probably already is (junk) even though it’s still running, because the damage has already been done. From the sound of things, your engine is perhaps only a few seconds away from exploding expensively.

Noises like this are usually caused by wear in the bearings – typically the con-rod bearings – and while they can be fixed if you do so before the engine grenades, it will always be an expensive job. In fact, it would likely cost more than the actual value of a 2005 Pulsar itself.

The best advice, then, is to let a mechanic have a listen to see if it’s as bad as you’ve described. From there, I reckon a second-hand engine form a wrecked Pulsar would be your best bet if you’re determined to keep the car.

Opening the bonnet is a two-step process, Chris. First you need to locate the bonnet release catch which, on a 2008 Navara is located on the lower edge of the dashboard, just to the right of the steering column. It should be just under the button that controls the VDC (stability-control) program. It should be a little plastic catch that you pull towards you. When you do, you should feel the catch `give’ and see the bonnet spring up a few millimetres.

Step two is to go around to the front of the car, and run your hand along in the space between the bonnet and the grille until you find the secondary catch which has to be pushed to one side to allow the bonnet to be lifted open. Be careful, though: Don’t let the bonnet fall on to your fingers and don’t shove your hand too far under the bonnet as there are hot components like the radiator in there as well. This second, safety catch is there in case the interior release gets bumped while the car is being driven. At which point the bonnet could fly open with interesting consequences.

From memory, that model Navara also used a manual bonnet stay rather than gas struts to hold it open. So you’ll need to hold the bonnet open and manually put the stay in place to prevent the bonnet from falling on your head.

That’s an awful lot of money for a 2006 Nissan Patrol, Heather, but there are a couple of mitigating factors. The first is the incredibly low mileage and if there’s a GU Patrol out there with fewer kilometres showing, then I’d be a bit surprised.

The second thing in the car’s favour is that it has the mighty 4.8-litre petrol six-cylinder engine which is one of the best towing engines ever made for a passenger vehicle. A Patrol with that engine will always find a buyer even if, at $18,000, it’s right at the top of the price ladder. Then again, given that it represents more or less a brand-new 2006 Patrol (and this model was a cool $80,000 on the road back in the day) maybe $18,000 is a steal. Depends on how you look at it.

The only caveat is that it will use lots and lots of fuel and double that amount if you tow a caravan with it.

I would always approach a car’s manufacturer in a case like this, if only because 90,000km is not, in my estimation, an acceptable distance for a transmission to last before it needs total replacement. That said, I wouldn’t hold my breath in this case because the vehicle is well and truly out of warranty.

The other people I’d be talking to would be the RACV. The club will be very concerned to hear that a car it inspected has had such a major malfunction and may have some consumer advice of its own. Then again, if the inspection was a full 18 months ago, then again, I don’t like your chances. But it’s got to be worth a shot.

The other thing that bothers me is that the vehicle is an ex-fleet car, probably a rental car, so despite a full service history, that has to rate as a chequered past. The other part of the problem is that the mechanical layout of the X-Trail makes some repairs very time-consuming, and that’s a great way to jack up the price of any repair work. If it does turn out that you’re on your own, a second-hand gearbox from a wrecked X-Trail might be a better bet than a brand-new one.

Wow, that’s a rare beast, Tom. It’s also a bit of a unicorn and, since no two converted Patrol tippers were the same (more or less) there are no hard and fast rules on what they’re worth second-hand.

From the sound of things, yours is in very nice condition and has low kilometres, so they’re both good selling points. But from a buyer’s point of view, I’d want to know that the vehicle has been properly engineered (as these were converted to tippers by third party modifiers, rather than Nissan itself) and that it has all the paperwork necessary to obtain a roadworthy certificate and be legally registered. What your insurance provider will make of such a vehicle is up to them, but it’s another consideration for would-be buyers.

As for a price guide, the only similar vehicle I could find for sale at the moment was around the $20,000 mark. But this is a classic case of a vehicle being worth precisely what somebody else will pay for it.

It would be helpful to know the trim level of your car, Piri, as the trade-in price range from the ST 4X4 to the top-of-the-range Ti could be from around $15,000 up to $22,000. Also, without seeing the car in the flesh, it’s very difficult to make such a call on a car’s trade-in value. That said, at 140,000km, your car has pretty high kilometres for its age and that would play against it as a trade-in.

In the end, it might simply be the smart thing to do and just drive it till it falls apart, but you should know that these X-Trails are not the cheapest vehicles to maintain and keep running in perfect condition. The way Nissan laid out the driveline, in particular, sometimes means that what should be a little job is actually quite a big one. Bigger jobs mean more hours and, in a mechanical workshop, time is definitely money.

It’s a fact of life, Ted, that fuel-efficiency has been a big focus for car-makers in the last decade. So, the most economical models tend to be the newer ones which tap into better technology (such as stop-start functions) and improved engine and driveline designs.

But beyond the improvements in petrol-engine technology, diesel engines have brought some big improvements, as have hybrid vehicles. The real headline makers have been, of course, the plug-in electric vehicles which are now available second-hand for sensible money. I’ve seen Nissan Leafs for sale for less than $20,000 and the plug-in hybrid Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV for similar money.

If economy is your number-one aim, stay away from all-wheel-drive cars as the extra driveline friction requires more power and, therefore, fuel to drive it. And don’t forget that how you drive, where you drive and even whether you check you tyre pressure regularly can also have a huge effect on your ultimate fuel economy.

As with any other problems like this one, Terry, the best advice is to have the car plugged in to a scanner and have a diagnostic mechanic read the fault codes which will hopefully give an idea of the cause of the limp-home mode and unresponsive throttle pedal. It could be something simple, it may be something really intrinsic, but without a scan, you’re flying blind.

The oil in the intercooler, meanwhile, is a potentially big problem. A little oil inside the intercooler piping is actually quite normal and is usually the result of oil mist from the crankcase ventilation system condensing and leaving a little oily residue. But a large amount of oil in the intercooler suggests a turbocharger with leaking seals and/or bearings. If the seals are leaking, boost pressure from the turbocharger can force oil from the turbo’s bearing into the intercooler. If that’s the case, you’re looking at a rebuilt or new turbocharger unit. A blown turbo could also be enough to prompt the limp-home mode you’re experiencing.

I’d go for the Rukus every time. And that’s not to say there’s anything inherently wrong with the Nissan Cube, but it was only sold here as a private import with all the insurance, servicing and spare-parts hassles that can bring with it.

But besides all that, the Rukus is, mechanically speaking, the previous-generation Toyota Camry, built on a Corolla platform with a super-useable boxy body. So, as well as being amazingly practical, it should also be a zero-hassle ownership experience. The Rukus might not have the pizzazz of the Nissan, but it’s the one to buy second-hand.

If your car was built between August 6 and October 30, 2010, Wayne, then it was the subject of a Nissan recall that was announced in November 2011. Apparently, the power-steering’s assistance could simply stop working, meaning that the steering would still work, but would require a lot more muscle input form the driver. Check the dashboard for a power-steering warning light that is the other clue that this is what’s happening.

The fact that your car’s problem is intermittent is a bit confusing, but given its recall history, I reckon a visit to a Nissan dealership to see whether the car was one of the affected ones is worth the effort. The other possibility is that the car needs a wheel-alignment as the wheels are not pointing where they should be when you’re turning right.