Nissan Problems

Opening the bonnet is a two-step process, Chris. First you need to locate the bonnet release catch which, on a 2008 Navara is located on the lower edge of the dashboard, just to the right of the steering column. It should be just under the button that controls the VDC (stability-control) program. It should be a little plastic catch that you pull towards you. When you do, you should feel the catch `give’ and see the bonnet spring up a few millimetres.

Step two is to go around to the front of the car, and run your hand along in the space between the bonnet and the grille until you find the secondary catch which has to be pushed to one side to allow the bonnet to be lifted open. Be careful, though: Don’t let the bonnet fall on to your fingers and don’t shove your hand too far under the bonnet as there are hot components like the radiator in there as well. This second, safety catch is there in case the interior release gets bumped while the car is being driven. At which point the bonnet could fly open with interesting consequences.

From memory, that model Navara also used a manual bonnet stay rather than gas struts to hold it open. So you’ll need to hold the bonnet open and manually put the stay in place to prevent the bonnet from falling on your head.

Stick with the respected brands and models like the Suzuki Grand Vitara or Nissan X-Trail. With your budget you should be able get into a 2008/2009 model.

Nissan made a big song and dance about the new infotainment system on its 2019 Navara, and rightly so, because the vehicle had been off the pace in this regard compared with its major competitors. The changes included the inclusion of Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, but also included full smart-phone mirroring.

None of which is much use to you, Dom, because if the system won’t connect to your phone without dropping out, it’s a moot point, yes? I’d be straight back to the dealer to have it sorted out. The computer that controls the infotainment might need a re-boot or maybe there’s a more fundamental problem. Either way, Nissan’s factory warranty should cover this.

But before you do that, try one thing: Pair the car with a different phone just to rule out the possibility that it’s your phone that the upgraded system doesn’t like. 

The Hilux 4WD would give you better offroad ability and more load carrying capacity, and shouldn’t suffer on the fuel consumption or power fronts, but your budget would dictate an earlier model in the region of 2014.

It’s a fact of life, Ted, that fuel-efficiency has been a big focus for car-makers in the last decade. So, the most economical models tend to be the newer ones which tap into better technology (such as stop-start functions) and improved engine and driveline designs.

But beyond the improvements in petrol-engine technology, diesel engines have brought some big improvements, as have hybrid vehicles. The real headline makers have been, of course, the plug-in electric vehicles which are now available second-hand for sensible money. I’ve seen Nissan Leafs for sale for less than $20,000 and the plug-in hybrid Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV for similar money.

If economy is your number-one aim, stay away from all-wheel-drive cars as the extra driveline friction requires more power and, therefore, fuel to drive it. And don’t forget that how you drive, where you drive and even whether you check you tyre pressure regularly can also have a huge effect on your ultimate fuel economy.

As with any other problems like this one, Terry, the best advice is to have the car plugged in to a scanner and have a diagnostic mechanic read the fault codes which will hopefully give an idea of the cause of the limp-home mode and unresponsive throttle pedal. It could be something simple, it may be something really intrinsic, but without a scan, you’re flying blind.

The oil in the intercooler, meanwhile, is a potentially big problem. A little oil inside the intercooler piping is actually quite normal and is usually the result of oil mist from the crankcase ventilation system condensing and leaving a little oily residue. But a large amount of oil in the intercooler suggests a turbocharger with leaking seals and/or bearings. If the seals are leaking, boost pressure from the turbocharger can force oil from the turbo’s bearing into the intercooler. If that’s the case, you’re looking at a rebuilt or new turbocharger unit. A blown turbo could also be enough to prompt the limp-home mode you’re experiencing.

I’d go for the Rukus every time. And that’s not to say there’s anything inherently wrong with the Nissan Cube, but it was only sold here as a private import with all the insurance, servicing and spare-parts hassles that can bring with it.

But besides all that, the Rukus is, mechanically speaking, the previous-generation Toyota Camry, built on a Corolla platform with a super-useable boxy body. So, as well as being amazingly practical, it should also be a zero-hassle ownership experience. The Rukus might not have the pizzazz of the Nissan, but it’s the one to buy second-hand.

If your car was built between August 6 and October 30, 2010, Wayne, then it was the subject of a Nissan recall that was announced in November 2011. Apparently, the power-steering’s assistance could simply stop working, meaning that the steering would still work, but would require a lot more muscle input form the driver. Check the dashboard for a power-steering warning light that is the other clue that this is what’s happening.

The fact that your car’s problem is intermittent is a bit confusing, but given its recall history, I reckon a visit to a Nissan dealership to see whether the car was one of the affected ones is worth the effort. The other possibility is that the car needs a wheel-alignment as the wheels are not pointing where they should be when you’re turning right.

There’s not much between them, but the Honda is regarded as being a little better than the Nissan overall. It’s well-equipped, good value, and practical. Another to consider is the Mazda CX-5.