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Are you having problems with your 2006 Mitsubishi Triton? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest 2006 Mitsubishi Triton issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the 2006 Mitsubishi Triton in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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Unless you need a vehicle capable of driving over rough or slippery ground, I would buy a 2WD diesel ute. It will be more economical than a 4WD and will tow your trailer without problems. Your budget will get you an upmarket ute. Look at the Toyota Hilux or new Mitsubishi Triton. Also, there are good deals available on the Mazda Bravo and Ford Courier for much less. For little more than $20,000 you'll get a 2WD diesel with a tray and toolbox.
If the engine is running well, but the car won’t move in gear when you take your foot off the clutch, it’s very likely that your clutch has failed. The clutch is responsible for transferring power from the engine to the gearbox and, if it wears out, it can no longer do so and the vehicle will just sit there and not move even when you take your foot off the clutch pedal and the car is in gear.
You noted that the car had previously seemed to lose power, but this was more likely to be the start of the clutch failing and not transferring all the power it should have been. Eventually, though, the failure became total and no power is getting through to the gearbox (and, therefore, the wheels).
A new clutch is the likely fix but make sure to check the flywheel for damage and wear while the car is apart.
Like you, I read about these systems and the claims their designers make for them, but my experience is that they rarely, if ever, work out in real life. If they really did work, why aren't they taken up by carmakers? The fact that they aren't seems to answer your question.
I would be looking at the fuel supply, the filters, fuel pump, and the fuel itself. If the performance generally has dropped off I would also be looking at the turbocharger.
Mitsubishi’s manual gearboxes from around this time (and earlier) were some of the noisiest around. But usually it wasn’t anything to be concerned about. Bearing rumble and some clutch bearing noise were pretty much par for the course, but your problem sounds more like it’s associated with the gearbox’s synchromesh rings. These rings are designed to allow the gearbox to slip between ratios smoothly and silently, and any crunching noises during shifts can often be traced to worn synchromesh parts.
The good news is you won’t harm the transmission by continuing to drive it, particularly if you’re careful and take your time with the shifts you know are most likely to create a crunch. If you can live with that, fine. If not, the gearbox will need to be removed from the car and rebuilt. That will be neither cheap nor simple.
They’re not required on utes. Triton GLX-Rs have one on centre of tailgate and have had since CR launch in 2006, but GLXs don't have one.
I would agree with the dealer's diagnosis of carbon build-up and cleaning it will probably fix it.