Are you having problems with your Mercedes-Benz? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Mercedes-Benz issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Mercedes-Benz in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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I’ll assume you’re talking about a C200, Kevin, which was the most popular Benz model with a 200 in its name back in those days. The good news is that, no, that engine doesn’t need a timing belt change. That’s because it uses a timing chain rather than a rubber timing belt and, all things being equal, the timing chain should last the lifespan of the car itself.
All Mercedes-Benz passenger cars from that era would all have been sold brand-new with two keys. If you’ve bought the car second-hand with just the one key, you can contact a Mercedes-Benz dealership, quote the car’s VIN and the dealer will be able to order the correct key and electronically code it to work in your car. It could cost several hundred dollars, however.
Physically, there’s no problem with switching from run-flat to non run-flat tyres. You might even (almost certainly) find the car rides better than it did on run-flats and the Benz B-Class always had a fairly brittle ride, so any improvement is worthwhile.
Yes, you’ll have to arrange some sort of contingency should a flat tyre occur, but you can source a puncture repair kit pretty easily. There are even puncture-repair-in-a-can products (and have been for years) although they’re not always 100 per cent successful. If you’re keen, you could always find a space-saver spare from another model at a wrecking yard. Provided it’s the right diameter and the stud pattern matches, you’re good to go. Don’t forget to include the tools required to change a flat, though.
The other thing to do is to replace all four tyres at the same time. Driving around on a mix of run-flats and non run-flats is a bad idea and could give the car some evil handling traits, especially in the wet.
Colleagues of mine have noted that the C43 isn’t at its happiest when taking off from a standing start sometimes, particularly if the stop-start function is engaged. That said, the harshest description of the problem was the odd clunk when launching the car, but even with that system switched off, the AMG sometimes seems to have problems deciding which gear to select, leading to a lack of smoothness. Perhaps it’s not helped by the fact that the car is all-wheel-drive, and grips the road extremely well when perhaps a little `give’ in the driveline mightn’t be a bad thing. Maybe it’s the traction-control stepping in too early and interrupting the flow of power to the wheels.
That said, your problem sounds a lot more severe than that. The C43 uses a conventional torque converter automatic transmission, so it doesn’t suffer some of the jerkiness that other cars using dual-clutch technology can. It’s puzzling though, that the computer isn’t throwing up any fault codes, so maybe your car is simply doing what some C43s do to a greater or lesser extent. If it’s as bad as you say, it’s not good enough and you should pursue the problem with Mercedes-Benz and have the problem corrected under warranty.
If the vehicle has been serviced at a Mercedes-Benz dealer, all the information about that history can be accessed online. Any dealer should be able to tap into that history file and tell you what you need to know. You can also establish (if you haven’t already) a `Mercedes me’ account via the factory website and this will enable you to check out the car’s entire service background. A dealer will be able to help you establish your Mercedes me account.
If you’re after an owner’s manual, there’s one included on the car’s hard-drive if the vehicle is fitted with the Mercedes Command system (which was standard on the Power trim level and optional on the Progressive) which you can access via the info-screen in the dashboard. Failing that, this link will get you top the relevant online subject matter.
Again, a problem like this is very difficult to diagnose via remote control. You haven’t given me much to go on here, but my first suggestion would be to have the car scanned at a workshop and see what error codes materialise. From there, you can take a much more targeted approach to working out which of the hundreds of possible components is causing the problem. Don’t forget the basics, either, such as contaminated or old fuel in the tank. Modern fuel doesn’t like sitting around in a tank and can `go off’ over time.