Mazda 3 Problems

They are of a similar age, so there shouldn’t be much between them in terms of accumulated mileage. The SP25 is better equipped and sportier model, but I would still go for the Maxx being newer and a little cheaper.

Check in your handbook what globes your car uses and you should change both sides at the same time.

Open the bonnet and secure it with the prop. Turn the wheel of the car so it is pointing in, giving you better access to the back of the headlight you need to work on. Using a trim removal tool pop the centre out of the three plastic fasteners holding the inner guard liner to the car. Once the centre is popped up, pull the fastener out. Twist the bulb assembly anticlockwise, then push the tab on the wiring plug in to unplug the wiring connector. Wearing gloves, remove the new bulb from the packet and plug it into the wiring connector ensuring you don't touch the glass with your bare hands. Twist the headlight back into place in the headlight, refit the inner guard liner and plugs, and you're done.

The Mazda3 uses a 5x114.3mm bolt pattern, otherwise known as Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD). Many Nissans and large Fords use this same PCD measurement but you would need to check hub bore size and offset.

Start by using a trim removal tool to lever out the shiny black trim that runs across the dashboard. When you get to the air vents in the centre, these come out with the black trim and you can lever from the top of the air vents to make it easier to pop them out. Behind the air vents there is one bolt and three clips holding the radio unit to the dashboard, so you can push upwards and forwards at the same time and the unit will pop out of the dash. Disconnect the wiring and the radio unit is removed.

Without being able to see the paint problem it is difficult to be conclusive, but on the basis of what you have told us it is more likely to be the paint quality than bird droppings.

Your best course of action is to consult a paint specialist and have them make an independent assessment that you can submit to Mazda.

Turn on Bluetooth on your phone and set it to discoverable, then use the Menu button on the Mazda3 audio screen to scroll through to BT Setup. Select BT Setup using the volume dial, then use that same button to select Pair Device. The system will display a four digit PIN on the screen, accept that by pressing the volume button. The screen should then flash Pairing on the screen, so select the car's Bluetooth name on your phone, then enter the four digit PIN on your phone. The car's audio screen system should show Pair Success if it works as intended. Further details will be in your owner's manual.

Generally, I'd say the highest spec model you can afford. However, in the Mazda3's case I'd actually say the Maxx seems to provide the best bang-for-your-buck over the far more expensive SP25 variants.

It will come down to whether you find the hatch or sedan more practical, and whether you can live without the extra goodies on the higher-spec models. If you're doing a lot of country driving, I would give extra consideration to the 2.5-litre SP25 models as the 2.0-litre is fine for around town but a bit breathless on the open highway.

Open the driver's door, look down the A-pillar (the post beside the windscreen) and you will see a bonnet release towards the bottom of the dashboard. Pull that lever, then walk to the front of the car. Stand in front of the middle of the bonnet, pulling up on the bonnet lid while feeling for the secondary release lever. Pull that lever while lifting the bonnet and it will raise up.

Yes! No! Quite possibly! The largest factor in achieving good fuel efficiency is the nut behind the wheel (the driver). If you drive with efficiency in mind you will find Mazda's sales-dominating compact car will be able to travel hundreds of kilometres between refills, averaging approximately 5.7L per-100km for the 2.0-litre engines and approximately 6.5L per-100km for the 2.5-litre engines.

When you lower a car you are normally simply swapping the coil springs for lower, stiffer units which reduce the ride height of the car, and makes the suspension firmer as there is less space for soft coils to absorb the bumps you drive over on the road. It requires specialised tools like coil spring compressors to safely remove the old suspension (which is held under tension) and fit the new parts. Sometimes you will need to replace the dampers (shock absorbers) with new units suited to the lowered ride height, too, and you will always need to get a new wheel alignment done by professionals once done. Due to the risks to your safety and the legality of your car, you should only have a professional suspension workshop lower your car for you - people have been killed while lowering their cars, such is the potential danger of this job.