Honda Jazz Problems

There are dozens (hundreds, actually) of reasons why a modern automatic car won't accelerate through its gears properly when you take off from a standing start. These can include sensors, wiring, fuses, mechanical issues within the transmission and even an on-board computer that has lost the plot.

While the Jazz uses a CVT transmission rather than a conventional automatic with planetary gears, the Honda still makes use of hydraulic transmission fluid to operate its torque converter and effect the gear ratio changes as you drive. So, keeping the correct grade of fluid at the correct level is critical.

In most cases, the best bet is to take the car to a workshop that knows this make and model and have it scanned electronically for clues about what's gone wrong. This will ultimately be the quickest, cheapest way to find out what's wrong. From there, you can make a more informed decision on how to proceed.

However, if you want to be a little more pro-active, there are a couple of things to try. First, check the level of the transmission fluid. If this is low (due to a leak) then the gearbox may have difficulty shifting gears or taking off at all. The other thing you could try is to disconnect the battery from the car and leave it for at least an hour before reconnecting the battery. This forces an electronic reset and could fix the problem. It's a bit of a long shot, however, and you may have to recode your radio and reset the car's clock.

The 2015 model Jazz was recalled for a CVT transmission problem which could see high internal hydraulic pressure cause an internal shaft to break, at which point the car would lose all drive. However, your 2005 model Jazz was not fitted with a gearbox with the same potential problem.

Even though there was no recall for the 2005 Jazz's transmission, those with the CVT transmission could suffer shuddering problems which were linked to depleted additives in the transmission fluid. The solution was an improved fluid which was added to the gearbox once the old fluid had been drained and the car's ECU reset. While Honda dealers were performing this change, the problem was not deemed to be a safety issue, so no recall was issued.

The Australian Federal Government operates a website that lists all recalls for all makes and models officially sold here. It makes for some interesting reading. You can find it here.

To be honest, those do very much sound like the normal characteristics of a CVT transmission. The CVT saves fuel by allowing the engine to work in its most efficient speed range more of the time. That’s why, when you hit the accelerator, the engine sounds like it’s flaring. Which, of course, it is, to get into that sweet spot where it makes more power from less fuel. Essentially, the engine takes off and the rest of the car catches up with it.

The on-board computer can also interpret a burst of acceleration as the driver wanting to press on. That’s why the car will sometimes hold higher engine revs, because it wants to be ready for the next burst. When you back off, the computer interprets that as the need for speed having passed and it drops back to cruising revs…just as you’ve noted.

The jerkiness is another thing some owners notice, others never do. It’s all to do with the way the torque converter is calibrated. If you have any doubts, you could ask for the transmission to be scanned at the next service to see if it’s all in good condition.

Either way, you should report your concerns to Honda now so that if anything goes wrong down the track, the problem will be listed as a pre-existing condition and will still be considered by the factory warranty.

The subject of a Honda Jazz timing belt or chain comes up pretty frequently, as would-be owners try to gauge how reliable these hard-working little engines are. For those who prefer solid, low-maintenance motoring, the news is good, because all three Australian-delivered generations of the Honda Jazz have used the company’s L series engines which feature a timing chain rather than a rubber timing belt.

The task of the timing chain or timing belt is exactly the same: They take drive from the engine’s crankshaft to the camshaft and, in the process, keep all the moving parts in harmony. Many car makers moved away from a timing chain to the rubber, toothed drive belt as a way of simplifying engine design and driving down the cost of each engine. The rubber timing belt is also quieter in its operation and is also less prone to stretching (as a timing chain can) so the camshaft (commonly referred to as the cam) stays in perfect synch with the rest of the engine’s rotating parts. The timing belt is a simpler design because it doesn’t need to be tensioned via oil pressure from the engine as many timing chain systems are.

The timing chain, meanwhile, is preferred by some manufacturers (and their customers) because it should last the lifetime of the engine and never need replacement. This isn’t always the case, however, and some engines designs from a variety of manufacturers suffer problems in this regard. But, in a properly maintained engine of sound design, the timing chain should never need attention, while the rubber timing belt generally requires periodic replacement, usually between 60,000 and 120,000km depending on the make and model.

If you like the idea of the Honda but don’t want such a physically large package, take a look at the Honda Jazz. Yes, it’s probably one size down from your current Focus, but its interior is very spacious for its external dimensions. It’s also the car that has probably the most versatile interior in terms of flexible seating arrangements with a rear seat that folds, slides and tumbles. It also has normal ride height (as opposed to the jacked-up stance that SUVs boast) so your dog may find it easier to jump in without hitting anything. Beyond that, you really need to visit dealerships and check for yourself that rear doors, rear seats and general layout suit your very specific canine requirements.

The problem you refer to affected the very first Jazz models sold here up to 2008. Any car made after that date should not exhibit the same problem as Honda made running changes to fix it back in the day.

The problem was actually traced back to the wrong transmission fluid being used in the CVT unit. These modern transmission are very particular about what fluid they use, especially with regard to the complex brew of additives that make up the fluid.

Over time, the fluid in the affected Jazzes would start to break down as the additives became depleted, at which point, it wasn’t doing the complete job necessary. Specifically, the depleted additive package suddenly allowed the starter-motor clutch to remain engaged. Essentially, you had the transmission trying to drive the car and the starter clutch dragging at it, effectively trying to slow it down. Which is when the car would start to shudder.

The solution was to switch to a new, reformulated transmission fluid which was added to the drained CVT, the car driven for a certain distance, the new fluid dumped and refilled and then the ECU reset to recalibrate the transmission. Problem sorted.

There’s a bit of detail missing from your question, Peter, but I’ll take a stab in the dark and guess that you’re talking about the Honda Jazz city car. The MY06 Jazz was, in fact, known as the GD model, while the GE you’re comparing it with was released in 2008.

The GE was an all-new model Jazz, so fundamentally they’re entirely different cars. Yes, they share a similar mechanical specification and share a place in terms of their market segments, but beyond that, the GE is a newer design with better dynamics and superior safety levels.

If you can afford the later GE model, then it would definitely be a better car.

A few factors determine engine longevity, so let’s start with the first of those, the basic materials and design of the engine in question. Both the Toyota and Honda have advanced small-capacity engines that are made from quality materials. So that’s in their favour.

The second factor is servicing. A lack of regular maintenance including fresh oil and filters will kill engines fast, so that’s crucial. And finally, how they are driven will also play a part. An engine that only does long distances in the country will always last longer than one that is subjected to frequent cold starts and stop-start traffic. An engine that is regularly revved to redline between the gears will also potentially die younger than one that is driven sensibly and with a bit of mechanical sympathy.

The bottom line? There’s no short answer. But I have seen small-capacity Honda and Toyota engines clock up 250,000km and more with correct maintenance. Things have certainly changed from the 1950s when the average car engine needed a rebuilt every 100,000km and what was called a de-coke and valve-grind every 30,000km. Ask your grandfather about it.

Well, if you’re looking for a fuel-efficient car, then a Honda Jazz is a very good choice. With an official combined fuel-consumption figure as low as 5.7 litres per 100km, and the ability to run on the cheaper 91-RON unleaded, the Jazz’s weekly fuel costs will be among the lowest around.

But $15,000 is a crazy figure. The entry-level Jazz was only about $16,000 when brand-new, so even though the kilometres showing on this one are extremely low, the price being asked is astronomical. The most expensive 2008 Jazzes out there are asking around $8000 (and that’s too much) with plenty out there for $4000 or less.

The difference would be if you meant to type 2018 instead of 2008 (which is a better match with the odometer reading you’re quoting) at which point $15,000 starts to look like roughly the right price to be paying. Either way, the Jazz is nicely built, drives well and will be very economical.