Holden Problems

Short of an utter mechanical failure such as a broken driveshaft or snapped gearbox input shaft, I’d say your automatic transmission is at fault. If you can feel the gears being selected (which you say you can) that’s a good start, but if there’s no movement form the car when you apply the throttle, then you could be dealing with anything from a broken gearbox or differential to a simple case of low transmission-fluid level.

Check the owner’s manual for the correct procedure for checking the fluid level and give it a try. If the level’s low, drive can certainly be affected and a top-up might put things right. Beyond that, you need to let a mechanic look at the car.

The only smart thing to do here is to have the car scanned at a workshop with the necessary computer gear and see what the fault codes suggest. You could try for years to second-guess what has caused this problem, and still not come up with the correct answer. The possible causes number in the hundreds, but a scan will hopefully take the guesswork out of a diagnosis.

I’ve actually experienced this on a brand-new Colorado (during an evaluation drive, no less). In this case it turned out to be a couple of loose fasteners in the front end, which were fixed quickly and permanently. In your case, though, it seems as though even with everything checked and tightened, the noise is still there.

So maybe it’s not something as obvious as a loose coupling or fitting. Maybe you’re looking at noisy shock absorbers. Sometimes these components can contribute a clunk, but it’s usually when they’re worn out, not on a six-month-old vehicle. Does the noise occur in a straight line or with some steering lock applied? Perhaps the steering lock stops are the culprits. I’d be putting the vehicle back on a hoist and checking that everything from the engine mounts to the cross-member and the steering rack to the transmission mounts are torqued to the correct values. Don’t rule out silly things like a loose tub or tray, either; sometimes a clunk in the rear of a vehicle can be transmitted down a chassis rail to sound like it’s coming from the front somewhere.

I’d check both the throttle body, which could need a clean, and the throttle-position sensor (TPS) which can fail or send incorrect information back to the computer. Both these components have a major effect on how a car idles and both can require maintenance or even replacement. Other possible causes could be worn fuel-injectors, a vacuum leak and a huge range of other possibilities. But those are the two I’d investigate first. Once I’d had the car scanned for fault codes, that is.

Noises and vibrations are sometimes very hard to diagnose, particularly by remote control. A metallic noise from underneath the car is often a heat shield rattling against another component and this will can vary according to the load the engine is under at the time. Another common source of rattles is a collapsed catalytic-converter in the exhaust system which can sound like a tin can full or nuts and bolts when you rev the engine or place it under load.

Also, you might find that the vibration and the noise you’re feeling and hearing are from the same source. But you really need to have the car inspected to find out the source of the white noise.

The six-speed automatic in your car has experienced a lot of serious problems, Linda. Various components have been blamed, but the symptoms include failure to select Reverse which sounds like the problem you’re having. Other symptoms include flaring between gears, loss of drive, inability to select forward gears and a warning light showing up on the dashboard.

You might be lucky and simply need a top up of transmission fluid, but going by the history of this gearbox, you need to have the car electronically scanned to know what’s really going on.

It sounds like you’ve had a rough trot with your Captiva, Danielle. Let me ask you this: When did the problems first occur and were discussed with the dealer? If you’ve been putting up with this stuff over a period of years, there’s a chance these dramas first cropped up while the vehicle was under warranty. If that’s the case, you’re dealing with what’s called a pre-existing condition and, if the dealer was made aware of the situation before the warranty had expired, then Holden is still duty-bound to fix the faults even if the car itself is now out of warranty. I’m asking because you said the problems go back at least as far as one month out from the warranty expiring, which is when you had new fuel-injectors fitted.

Starter-motor problems are not unknown with the Captiva and DPF problems are likewise a well-documented source of grief with these cars. Sometimes, the only fix for the DPF is a full replacement but that’s not cheap. Not to mention the new filter will possibly become blocked sometime down the track. The only way to keep a modern turbo-diesel happy is to drive it for about half an hour at freeway speeds every three or four weeks. That will regenerate the DPF and help prevent these problems. Then again, in the case of a Holden Captiva, I wouldn’t be too certain of that.

I can’t see why not, Peter. The 1996 and 1999 are more or less identical cars so there should be a high degree of interchangeability. While manual versions of the Commodore Ute form this era did, indeed, change gearbox types as the years progressed, the automatic version stuck with the same unit, so the gearbox and all its ancillary bits and pieces should be a straight swap.

And how good is a ute with a bench seat for three and a column-shift? Car makers should revisit this layout as it makes so much sense.

The symptoms you have certainly suggest an engine with far too much blow-by (combustion pressure escaping past the piston rings and into the crankcase). Sometimes, the same symptoms can be caused by a crankcase ventilation system that isn’t working properly, but it’s often blow-by that’s the cause. That’s usually the result of internal engine wear which, at 290,000km and counting, is hardly out of the question.

Basically, the observations you’ve made regarding crankcase fumes are about as far as you can go without actually performing a compression and cylinder leak-down test. The good news is that these tests aren’t overly complicated and don’t take long, but they will give you a vastly more accurate idea of what’s going on inside the engine. Oil in the intercooler can also be a sign of this sort of wear, but, as you’ve been told, can also be the fault of blown turbocharger seals. Either way, it sounds like your engine is due for a freshen up in the name of reliability and clean running.

The standard differential on this vehicle was a non-LSD (non-limited-slip) unit with a final-drive ratio of 3.08:1. Some owners changed the gears in the diff for more acceleration, although this was more commonly done in V8 models where owners were chasing performance at the expense of a little fuel economy.

If you’re in doubt, you can put the car on a hoist, mark a spot on the driveshaft and then turn the rear wheel a full revolution. By counting the number of times the driveshaft rotates during that process, you’ll know the ratio. In this case, one full rotation of the rear wheel should equal 3.08 rotations of the driveshaft.