Are you having problems with your Mitsubishi? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Mitsubishi issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Mitsubishi in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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I don’t know of any insurance companies that will pay out an increased amount because of recent repairs. The presumption would have been that your car was worth the $6000 agreed-value amount only if it was in good working order and not in a damaged state. Following that presumption is the fact that, if it needed $1500 spent on it to bring it back to that condition, that’s simply a wear and tear cost that is not the insurer’s problem. It’s a cruel world, no?
As for the payout figure including (or not) the registration refund, I’d imagine that would be up to the insurer and would be included in the dreaded fine-print. From what I can gather, this is a pretty common inclusion on most policy wordings, and many insurers will adjust the payout down to include the policy excess (if, unlike your case, Tracey, you were at fault) and the unused portion of the CTP insurance and registration. But get this: Some insurers will even deduct the costs of the rest of the year’s insurance premium from your payout, even if you were paying the premium monthly! Never gloss over the fine print.
There’s nothing to suggest the Outlander is a lemon. Just read up on all the reviews of the 2019 model. That should be enough to convince you it’s a decent SUV. The Black Edition is a variant of the Outlander with a long list of special features. I don’t see any reason to wait for the 2020 model.
With the ignition off, press the info button repeatedly until the service screen comes up. Then press and hold the info button until the spanner icon flashes, press the info button repeatedly until the schedule starts to flash. Press and hold the info button until off is displayed, then press and hold the info button until the flashing stops. The service reminder will then be turned off.
An MY18-model Mitusibishi ASX LS should set you back between $15,000 and $20,000 depending on kilometres and its overall condition. Whether you look at a 2WD or 4x4 model it doesn’t seem to change the 2018-model’s valuation.
It will be one of the following: ES, LS, Exceed, VR-X, or Evo. It’s unlikely that it will be a VR-X or an Evo, which are the performance models. It should have badges on it to identify it as an ES, LS, or Exceed. If not check the id plate. To find the location of the plate refer to your owner’s manual.
It’s a fact of life, Ted, that fuel-efficiency has been a big focus for car-makers in the last decade. So, the most economical models tend to be the newer ones which tap into better technology (such as stop-start functions) and improved engine and driveline designs.
But beyond the improvements in petrol-engine technology, diesel engines have brought some big improvements, as have hybrid vehicles. The real headline makers have been, of course, the plug-in electric vehicles which are now available second-hand for sensible money. I’ve seen Nissan Leafs for sale for less than $20,000 and the plug-in hybrid Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV for similar money.
If economy is your number-one aim, stay away from all-wheel-drive cars as the extra driveline friction requires more power and, therefore, fuel to drive it. And don’t forget that how you drive, where you drive and even whether you check you tyre pressure regularly can also have a huge effect on your ultimate fuel economy.
Assuming we’re talking about a 4B12 engine (Mitsubishi’s internal codes) such as found in a 2016 Lancer or Outlander, then your engine has a timing chain rather than a timing belt. While timing belts need periodic replacement (usually around the 80,000 to 100,000km mark depending on the manufacturer) a timing chain should last the life of the vehicle.
However, this hasn’t always been the reality, especially with older Mitsubishi engines such as the Astron 2.6-litre which was found in Australian Magnas. These developed wear in their timing chains early in life and many were replaced. The trade seems to regard the 4B12 pretty highly, though, so it seems these later engines are not prone to the same problems. Even so, as with any engine, I’d be making sure the servicing – and in particular, oil changes – has been done by the book. That’s the cheapest mechanical insurance around.
Clearly there’s something under the floor generating the heat. Check things like the exhaust to make sure it’s away from the underbody, check the catalytic convertor to make sure it’s not partly blocked, and check the transmission cooler to see if it’s damaged.
There’s not much between them, but the Honda is regarded as being a little better than the Nissan overall. It’s well-equipped, good value, and practical. Another to consider is the Mazda CX-5.