Mazda Problems

It’s unclear from the information you have given us just what the problem is, but I can make a guess that the belt is not tightening around you when you put it on. Whatever the problem take it to your Mazda dealer and have it checked, it could be a fault with the retractor; it could be a problem with the webbing.

Check in your handbook what globes your car uses and you should change both sides at the same time.

Open the bonnet and secure it with the prop. Turn the wheel of the car so it is pointing in, giving you better access to the back of the headlight you need to work on. Using a trim removal tool pop the centre out of the three plastic fasteners holding the inner guard liner to the car. Once the centre is popped up, pull the fastener out. Twist the bulb assembly anticlockwise, then push the tab on the wiring plug in to unplug the wiring connector. Wearing gloves, remove the new bulb from the packet and plug it into the wiring connector ensuring you don't touch the glass with your bare hands. Twist the headlight back into place in the headlight, refit the inner guard liner and plugs, and you're done.

The Mazda3 uses a 5x114.3mm bolt pattern, otherwise known as Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD). Many Nissans and large Fords use this same PCD measurement but you would need to check hub bore size and offset.

Sit in the driver's seat with the smart key in the centre console. Press the start engine button and jiggle the wheel side-to-side.

Turn on Bluetooth on your phone and set it to discoverable, then use the Menu button on the Mazda3 audio screen to scroll through to BT Setup. Select BT Setup using the volume dial, then use that same button to select Pair Device. The system will display a four digit PIN on the screen, accept that by pressing the volume button. The screen should then flash Pairing on the screen, so select the car's Bluetooth name on your phone, then enter the four digit PIN on your phone. The car's audio screen system should show Pair Success if it works as intended. Further details will be in your owner's manual.

Generally, I'd say the highest spec model you can afford. However, in the Mazda3's case I'd actually say the Maxx seems to provide the best bang-for-your-buck over the far more expensive SP25 variants.

It will come down to whether you find the hatch or sedan more practical, and whether you can live without the extra goodies on the higher-spec models. If you're doing a lot of country driving, I would give extra consideration to the 2.5-litre SP25 models as the 2.0-litre is fine for around town but a bit breathless on the open highway.

The grille is integrated to the bumper bar on Mazda's volume-selling small car, but is still fairly easy to remove. Open the bonnet (hood) and remove the plastic trim piece behind the front bumper, in front of the radiator and intake. You will have to remove two fasteners holding the edge of the air intake down, along with pop-up clips across the panel. Remove the 10 bolts holding the splash guards to the bumper under the front edge of the car. There are 3 on the left, 3 on the right, and 4 across the front, then you can pop out the lip of the centre panel which rests on the inner edge of the bumper as there are 2 more fasteners hidden behind that lip. Pop out the fasteners holding each side of the front of the inner guards to the bumper, and then remove the 8mm bolt hidden behind the inner guards holding the bumper to the metal front guard panel on both sides. Pop the bumper out of its clips by levering the edges of the bumper out first, then tugging on the grille to pull the bumper out. Disconnect turn signals and driving lights and the bumper is ready to come out. The grille can then be unscrewed from the bumper shell.

Take your car to the dealership, or your local mechanic, and ask them to do it for you. There is something of a black art to correctly aligning headlights and (if you get it wrong) you could blind oncoming motorists or not be able to see the road properly, which could lead to disastrous results.

Open the driver's door, look down the A-pillar (the post beside the windscreen) and you will see a bonnet release towards the bottom of the dashboard. Pull that lever, then walk to the front of the car. Stand in front of the middle of the bonnet, pulling up on the bonnet lid while feeling for the secondary release lever. Pull that lever while lifting the bonnet and it will raise up.

When you lower a car you are normally simply swapping the coil springs for lower, stiffer units which reduce the ride height of the car, and makes the suspension firmer as there is less space for soft coils to absorb the bumps you drive over on the road. It requires specialised tools like coil spring compressors to safely remove the old suspension (which is held under tension) and fit the new parts. Sometimes you will need to replace the dampers (shock absorbers) with new units suited to the lowered ride height, too, and you will always need to get a new wheel alignment done by professionals once done. Due to the risks to your safety and the legality of your car, you should only have a professional suspension workshop lower your car for you - people have been killed while lowering their cars, such is the potential danger of this job.