Holden Colorado 2020
Carsguide Editor - Adventure Marcus Craft had this to say at the time: The Holden Colorado Z71 is a pretty decent towing machine, handling all aspects of general load-lugging duties with a quiet reliable efficiency. In simple terms, it kept the whole ute-and-van combination trucking along nicely.You can read the full review here.
This is what Marcus Craft liked most about this particular version of the Holden Colorado: Very torquey engine, Nice ride and handling, Reasonable off-road capability
The Holden Colorado Ute competes with similar models like the Ford Ranger, Mitsubishi Triton and Toyota HiLux in the Under $50k category category.
The 2020 Holden Colorado carries a braked towing capacity of up to 3500 Kg, but check to ensure this applies to the configuration you're considering.
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Holden Colorado 2020 Price and Specs
|Holden Colorado Model||Body Type||Specs||Price|
|LS (4X2)||Ute||2.8L Diesel 6 SP AUTO||$36,690|
|LS (4X4)||Ute||2.8L Diesel 6 SP AUTO||$47,190|
|LS (4X4)||Ute||2.8L Diesel 6 SP MAN||$44,990|
|LS-X (4X4)||Ute||2.8L Diesel 6 SP AUTO||$49,190|
Holden Colorado 2020 Q&As
Check out real-world situations relating to the Holden Colorado here, particularly what our experts have to say about them.
What is causing the brake pedal to sink slowly to the floor in my 2016 Holden Colorado?
There are three classic causes of a sinking brake pedal. The first is a worn out brake master cylinder that is allowing brake fluid back past the actuating piston. The second is a leak somewhere in the braking system, either a caliper itself or a brake line or union and, the third is an ABS system fault where the ABS pump isn’t working properly, usually due to a low brake-fluid level.
Regardless of the cause, there’s no `acceptable tolerance’ for a brake pedal that slowly sinks towards the floor. A braking system in good working order should be able to hold the brake pedal at the same level more or less indefinitely. Any sinking is bad news and is a serious safety issue. I wouldn’t even have the car towed to a workshop; it’s simply not safe to drive.
What is causing a front end knock in my 2020 Holden Colorado ZL1?
I’ve actually experienced this on a brand-new Colorado (during an evaluation drive, no less). In this case it turned out to be a couple of loose fasteners in the front end, which were fixed quickly and permanently. In your case, though, it seems as though even with everything checked and tightened, the noise is still there.
So maybe it’s not something as obvious as a loose coupling or fitting. Maybe you’re looking at noisy shock absorbers. Sometimes these components can contribute a clunk, but it’s usually when they’re worn out, not on a six-month-old vehicle. Does the noise occur in a straight line or with some steering lock applied? Perhaps the steering lock stops are the culprits. I’d be putting the vehicle back on a hoist and checking that everything from the engine mounts to the cross-member and the steering rack to the transmission mounts are torqued to the correct values. Don’t rule out silly things like a loose tub or tray, either; sometimes a clunk in the rear of a vehicle can be transmitted down a chassis rail to sound like it’s coming from the front somewhere.
How can I test if there's too much blow-by in the engine of my 2010 Holden Colorado?
The symptoms you have certainly suggest an engine with far too much blow-by (combustion pressure escaping past the piston rings and into the crankcase). Sometimes, the same symptoms can be caused by a crankcase ventilation system that isn’t working properly, but it’s often blow-by that’s the cause. That’s usually the result of internal engine wear which, at 290,000km and counting, is hardly out of the question.
Basically, the observations you’ve made regarding crankcase fumes are about as far as you can go without actually performing a compression and cylinder leak-down test. The good news is that these tests aren’t overly complicated and don’t take long, but they will give you a vastly more accurate idea of what’s going on inside the engine. Oil in the intercooler can also be a sign of this sort of wear, but, as you’ve been told, can also be the fault of blown turbocharger seals. Either way, it sounds like your engine is due for a freshen up in the name of reliability and clean running.
Holden Colorado 2011: Problems with the crankshaft
It’s very difficult to diagnose problems over the phone, just as it is via this website. But, I’d be taking the vehicle straight back to the mechanic in question, because whatever is wrong is going to be fairly major.
In the majority of cases, an engine with a broken crankshaft won’t run. In fact, it won’t even turn over. Sometimes, it will still run, though, and the symptoms you’ve described are spot on for that. Either way, a broken crankshaft is one example of what’s called catastrophic failure and a new crankshaft (at the very least) is the usual result.
But those same symptoms can also be the result of a loose harmonic balancer. And here’s the clue: The harmonic balancer has to be removed to replace the front crankshaft seal (which was done the day before the problems started). If the balancer is not reinstalled correctly, it can start to wobble, tear up the new seal and make all sorts of noises and vibrations. The bad news is that often, the wobbling balancer destroys the end (called the snout) of the crankshaft in the process, so even though the crank is not broken or snapped per se, it may still need to be replaced. It does seem like a fantastic coincidence that the balancer started wobbling the day after it was removed and refitted. That said, if the crankshaft has failed, then a coincidence is precisely what it might be.