Holden Astra Problems

These cars used a fairly simply check-valve on the fuel pump to prevent fuel draining back into the tank when the car was parked. As the car ages, this valve wears to the point where it won’t maintain fuel in the lines going to the engine. If that happens, it will take some time and cranking to get fuel from the tank to the engine. This is the delay you’re experiencing.

The worn valve is only allowing a small amount of fuel to drain back which is why you need to wait six hours or so for the problem to show up. A new fuel pump will fix it.

The jerk when you select reverse sometimes is definitely worth having diagnosed properly as it shouldn’t be that way. Scanning the car (which I’ll presume the dealership did to arrive at its answer) doesn’t always show up all faults, so just because the computer says there’s nothing wrong, doesn’t mean there isn’t. There are plenty of reasons for a car to jerk into a particular gear, but the good news is that the Astra uses a conventional, torque-converter automatic, not one of the vastly more troublesome double-clutch units.

Your second problem, however, may not be a problem at all. In fact, the gearbox in the Astra is smart enough to know that you’re coasting down a hill and will actually shift down a gear or two to take the strain off the brakes while still maintaining your speed. As it shifts down gears, the engine revs will rise; that’s absolutely normal and part of the way the car is designed to operate.

You could argue the semantics of what is and isn’t a major failure till the cows come home and still not get any joy. But while I’d still be talking to the dealership, I’d also contact Holden’s Customer Service department and explain the situation to see if it will overrule the dealership’s call on this. The number to call is 1800 46 465 336.

Meantime, if the car is fixed and working properly, what’s the problem? You could get a brand-new car and have exactly the same thing happen, so where do you draw the line on what’s acceptable and what’s not? Had Holden refused to fix the car or done a botched job that still left the car with problems, it would be a different story, but if the car is back to brand-new, I would consider the problem to be solved. I’m tipping head office will see it the same way.

It sounds like you’re dealing with a fuel-air mixture issue when the engine is started from dead cold. If the mixture is too rich – which would be my suspicion – then black smoke is often a consequence.

A coolant temperature sensor should be telling the engine’s on-board computer what the temperature of the engine is, so that the computer can then tell the injectors how much fuel to inject into each cylinder. A dud sensor can cause the computer to inject too much fuel, and there’s the source of your black smoke. As the engine warms up, the sensor starts sending the correct signal to the computer and the smoke stops.

Of course, it’s not always that simple and you could also be looking at a blocked air filter, a blockage in the air intake system, worn fuel injectors and plenty more. Even a stuck or jammed thermostat can cause an engine to run poorly and blow black smoke if it can’t maintain the engine at the correct temperature. Old or stale fuel in the tank can also cause these symptoms. The fact that your car is not showing any fault codes suggests that perhaps you’re looking at one of these old-school problems.

When talking about engine oil (as opposed to transmission, brake, power steering, differential, radiator or other types of oils found in cars) for your Holden TS Astra, a 10W-40 rating is best, though 15W-40 is good and 20W-40 is also OK. Make sure to go with a trusted brand.

You can always go to a dealer but if you've got the original key fob an automotive locksmith is probably a cheap option for you. You can read more details about how to replace your car keys here.

Have a car sound system specialist check it for you. They should be able to clear it so that you can insert CDs.

My first thought is that your car’s battery is on the way out. Are there any other symptoms of this (slow cranking etc)? Essentially, a battery that isn’t fully charged or is a bit wonky can start to shed its responsibilities one by one as it wears out. In this case, you might find that maintaining the clock’s memory/time isn’t programmed into the car as a major priority, so it switches that circuit off as a means of saving every available volt and ampere for actually starting the car (which is the point at which the maximum strain is placed on a battery).

Beyond that, you could have a dodgy ignition barrel that isn’t making all the necessary contacts when you insert and turn the key each time. I’ve heard of applying a liberal coating of acetone (or a solvent such as carby cleaner or WD40 should also work) and inserting the key a few times in succession. This is sometimes enough to clean the contacts and restore full functionality.

Go back to where you bought the struts, perhaps take a photo with you showing them the problem, and ask them for their advice. Make sure the struts you bought are the correct ones.

It’s common practice to replace the water pump at the same time the timing belt is changed because they usually need it. It doesn’t appear to be overheating, i.e. the gauge is not going off the scale, so I would just keep an eye on it and if it does show signs of overheating get it checked out.