Ask The Guide

It sounds like the entire car is shutting down. And if that happens at speed, or just as you’re preparing to pull out into moving traffic, that’s an incredibly dangerous thing to be happening. The best advice is to have the car scanned electronically, at which point the real problem might raise its head.

Beyond that, you’re clutching at straws, because whatever is going on is a fairly serious problem. Scanning the on-board computer doesn’t take long, and diagnosing the problem this way will save you time and money in the long run. It might even save you from a crash.

 Okay, Eric, here’s the rundown on your Mazda: The engine displaced 1272cc and made 44kW of power when it was new. It’s a single-overhead camshaft engine with a bore and stroke of 73mm and 76mm respectively. The 1300 two-door was 3855mm long, 1540mm wide and had a wheelbase of 2260mm. It weighed a claimed 800kg and would cover the standing 400m (the traditional benchmark for acceleration) in a claimed 18.1 seconds.

The first thing to do here is to make sure the sensors are clean and free of spider webs, dust or anything else that they might confuse with a parking obstacle. If that doesn’t stop them false-alarming, I’d be letting a Hyundai specialist take a look, as it doesn’t sound like something that can be fixed in the driveway at home. Perhaps you’ll need to replace one or more of the actual sensor units.

But there’s one other possibility that, although it’s a bit of a long shot, might explain what’s going on. Does the problem occur when you’re in traffic and another car ranges up behind at the lights? If so, is the car behind you likely to be one with active cruise-control. If it is, you might find that the radar signal for the other car’s cruise control is actually triggering your parking sensors. I’ve heard of it happening.

It all depends on how much below 2000kg, Jenny. The highest towing limit I could find for any 2019 RAV4 variant – the GXL 4X4 model – was 1500kg, well shy of your target limit. And to be honest, I think that even if you could find a mid-sized SUV with the legal ability to tow anything like 2000kg, you’d be stretching the friendship. It’s not all about engine power, after all; the mass of the towing vehicle itself and its footprint on the road also comes into the reckoning. I’ve seen plenty of medium SUVs towing loads that are, in practical terms, too heavy for them, holding up traffic and making a holiday vastly less fun than it should be.

You’re probably better to go shopping one size bigger and look at, say, the Toyota Kluger which can legally tow 2000kg and will give you a bit of performance headroom, making things safer and more relaxed on the road.

I think there’s a bit of confusion sneaking in here. Your Calais doesn’t have a timing belt, its engine is fitted with a timing chain instead. However, if it’s a V6 engine, then there’s every chance the timing chain does need to be replaced.

This seems counter to conventional wisdom where a timing chain should last the entire life of the car. But in the case of the particular V6 we’re talking about, the chain was definitely a weak point and lots of Calais and Commodores have needed replacement chains. That was particularly true if the engine received less routine maintenance than the handbook stipulated.

The first sign can be a rattle when the engine is started; sometimes you’ll get a check-engine light on the dashboard because the chain has stretched sufficiently to allow the camshafts and the crankshaft to become out of phase with each other. Either way, it’s new-chain time and you can expect to pay something like $2000 to have the job done, possibly more.

Most workshops will be able to carry out this work and, when it comes to finding a local garage, word of mouth from friends and family is usually a good way to proceed.

I’ll assume you’re talking about a C200, Kevin, which was the most popular Benz model with a 200 in its name back in those days. The good news is that, no, that engine doesn’t need a timing belt change. That’s because it uses a timing chain rather than a rubber timing belt and, all things being equal, the timing chain should last the lifespan of the car itself.

All Mercedes-Benz passenger cars from that era would all have been sold brand-new with two keys. If you’ve bought the car second-hand with just the one key, you can contact a Mercedes-Benz dealership, quote the car’s VIN and the dealer will be able to order the correct key and electronically code it to work in your car. It could cost several hundred dollars, however.

I haven’t heard of this one before, Brooke, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist in other Klugers, rather that other owners don’t find it as annoying as you clearly do. I have to agree with the dealer, though, in that conditioning the leather regularly would keep it supple. Chances are that the harder the leather becomes (with age and UV radiation) the more likely it is to squeak. Conditioning the seats will ensure they don’t split, too. Perhaps there’s a conditioning product that is designed specifically to stop squeaking leather, although from what I can see on most labelling, the majority of them already claim this as one of the product’s qualities.

I can understand why you might not want to spend all your time in the car with one seat folded down (Klugers are usually bought for their passenger-carrying abilities, after all) but perhaps carefully placing a soft cloth or old towel between the offending bits of leather really would do the trick. But here’s a tip that has been proven to work in the past: sprinkle a little baby powder on the offending sections of leather. It seems to work for leather shoes, so perhaps it will work in a Toyota.

The Ford Escape plug-in should be an interesting vehicle when it arrives, with 165kW of power and something like a 50km electric-only range. It will be here sometime this year, but the exact timing is still a trade secret.

The Toyota RAV4, meanwhile, isn’t a plug-in hybrid, so it can’t be recharged form your home solar panels (which the plug-in Escape could be). Frankly, if you’re making four times the power your household needs with your solar array, you’re in the pound seats for owning a plug-in hybrid which could put that excess electricity generation to very good use. That’s especially true if most of your driving is around town within a 20km radius or so of home-base.

That said, the new RAV4 Hybrid is gaining rave reviews as well as recording very sharp real-world fuel-economy figures. But a plug-in hybrid in a household with excess solar capacity could almost be run for free.

Fuses don’t have any moving parts, so it shouldn’t be a fuse that’s making a ticking noise. But fuse boxes also often house relays which do have electro-magnetic contacts and a small armature that moves when the magnets are energised. That’s the probable cause of the ticking noise.

That you’re hearing to ticking noise when you try to start the car, suggests to me that it’s a relay connected with the starting procedure; possibly something to do with powering up the fuel pump or even the starter-motor itself. But hearing it means that it’s working and the problem is somewhere downstream of the relay.

You’ve told me that the car won’t start, but does that mean it cranks and won’t fire, or won’t even crank in the first place? Because those are two very different problems with a thousand potential causes.

For a start, where did you get that price for the part? Was it advertised online? Many workshops refuse to use cheap, knock-off (copied) parts from overseas warehouses, so the replacement switch they are proposing to use may easily be more expensive.

I know it sounds like a lot of money, Debbie, but even if that is the price of the switch, here’s roughly how it breaks down. The workshop will usually add a percentage of mark-up on the part involved to cover the cost of ordering it, so let’s say that $84 part will be passed on to you for $100. Then, labour is charged out per hour, and rates can be anything from $75 to $150 (generally speaking, although specialists can charge much, much more than that). But even if we take the middle of those figures and call it $120 per hour, and the job takes one hour, by the time you’ve added the $100 switch, you’re already at $220 and the cheapest of your quotes. And that’s if there are no other little rubber seals, wiring terminals or plastic clips that need to be replaced as part of the job.

Also, consider that to do this job, there’s a fair chance the steering wheel will have to be removed and that’s not as simple as it sounds in a car with an air-bag in the steering wheel. Time is money, but never more so than in a busy workshop. The bottom line is that it those quotes don’t sound like a rip-off at all.

As far as finding a workshop in your area, word of mouth is usually a pretty good indicator in these cases. Ask your friends and family (and anybody else you trust) where they take their cars and be guided on that basis to begin with.