Ask The Guide

A: The whole dual-clutch transmission in the Clio RS is made by Getrag, so I’m not sure what the Renault dealer you contacted is talking about. Perhaps the actual clutch plates are made by one of Getrag’s suppliers, but fundamentally, this was a Getrag designed and built transmission. Renault Australia did, indeed, slice the warranty on its Sport models from five to three years effective May 1, 2018, and I agree that that would have sent alarm bells ringing for existing owners of these cars.

What really sends shivers up the spine is that the six-speed DCT in the Clio Sport is closely related to the unit Ford used in its Fiestas and Focusses. And that transmission, known as the Powershift, was a total abomination, leaving Ford customers high and dry with broken gearboxes and Ford Australia with millions in fines and being labelled by the ACCC as conducting itself in an `unconscionable’ manner after Ford tried to blame owners for the failures. Eventually, Ford Australia was forced to offer owners of these vehicles a very sweet trade-in deal on the new model Focus and Fiesta, effectively buying back the appalling DCT-equipped models.

One of the major causes of transmission failure was the dry-clutch engineering which saw the clutch-packs wear very prematurely. Renault Clio Sport transmission failures don’t seem as common as those in the similarly equipped Fords, but that’s possibly a simple matter of there being so few Clio Sports on the road here. Perhaps the Renault version of the transmission is built to a different level of quality and materials (the same transmission is built in factories in different parts of the world, so that’s possible) but we’d potentially be doing you a disservice by not highlighting the problems with this transmission. Some owners have reported trouble-free runs, but others have experienced gearbox faults and failures at low kilometres. It does seem a bit of a lucky-dip. For the record, Getrag’s wet-clutch seven-speed transmission was a markedly better unit, but that’s not what’s fitted to the car in question.

If you do go through with the purchase, demand a full service history to prove that all the maintenance and factory software upgrades have been applied to the car and then take it for a proper test drive that includes urban and highway driving. If the transmission displays any shuddering when taking off, any slipping between gears, takes a long time to select each gear or switches to limp-home mode, there’s good cause to suspect a worn or faulty transmission.

Because the SUV now utterly rules the world, you should have no problem finding something within your budget and fitting your requirements. Stick with brands that have a good reputation and models that don’t have endemic problems such as transmission failures or suspension or braking problems.

Without a doubt, however, the first priority in a car for a young driver is safety. So target a make and model that offers the absolute best safety gear that falls within your budget. The good news is that many affordable SUVs have now had crucial safety gear such as autonomous emergency braking, reversing cameras and blind-spot warning for a couple of generations now, so there are second-hand SUVs available that are very safe cars.

The new owner should also have some say in what she ends up with; some youngsters are keen drivers who want snappy engines, transmissions and steering, while others approach a car as more of a transport module than anything else and seem more concerned with connectivity and technology. Find out what the end-user needs and wants and then go from there.

It’s pretty simple, James, and despite both two and four-wheel-drive being offered on all trim levels of the Kona, there’s one thing to check that will answer your question: If the vehicle has the two-litre, non-turbocharged engine, it’s a two (front) wheel-drive. If it has the 1.6-litre turbocharged engine, it’s an all-wheel-drive Kona. Hyundai never offered a front-wheel-drive Kona with the turbo engine, nor all-wheel-drive with the non-turbo.

Beyond that, there were some other major technical differences that will also tell you what you’re looking at. The front-drive Kona has a simpler, torsion-beam rear suspension, while the AWD version has a multi-link arrangement. Then there’s the transmission. Front-drive Konas got a six-speed conventional automatic, while the AWD Kona got a dual-clutch seven-speed transmission.

If you’ve fitted a new ignition barrel, you’ll also have a new ignition key to go with it. And, according to Suzuki, that key needs to be electronically coded to the car before anything will work. You can take the car to a Suzuki dealer to have this done, or you might be able to find a local locksmith, some of whom can perform this task. But you’ll need to check first.

If your car is the base-model GA version without remote central locking, the other issue is that you’ll then have two keys to operate the car; one for the ignition and another to operate the door locks. The smart thing to do would be to have your dealership or a locksmith recut the door-lock barrels to suit the new key and have the whole car operate form a single key…much more convenient.

The good news for you, Jenny, is that there isn’t really a mainstream car-maker anywhere in the world that doesn’t offer a range of SUVs in various sizes and price points. The SUV has literally taken over the world, so it comes down to finding a brand you like with a model that’s right for you at a price you can live with. You’ll be offered all sorts of options, too, including petrol or diesel engines, two or four-wheel-drive layouts and in many cases the offer of a hybrid drivetrain.

If you only do the occasional country drive, I’d stick with either a petrol engine or hybrid powertrain as a modern diesel engine doesn’t like a full-time life in the suburbs where the engine and exhaust system never get hot enough to purge the emissions filter (the DPF). Beyond that, however, you’re sure to find something that suits you to a tee. Lexus SUVs are built to a very high standard and the brand has lots of experience with hybrids, so I’d definitely short-list Lexus based on your question.

As second-hand buys go, the Holden Captiva is a no-go zone. These were not reliable cars when they were new and the years and kilometres since have only made that situation worse. The V6 petrol engine is prone to stretched timing chains which is a huge and expensive job to fix and the automatic transmission is also a turkey. The Captiva was also home to many an oil leak and electrical problems are common.

These are now cheap cars, but for a very good reason. But even a car that is cheap to buy can wind up costing you lots if you need to constantly repair it. There are plenty of far better alternatives.

Australian delivered Volvo XC60s built between 2009 (when the vehicle was launched here) and 2017 were built at Volvo’s plant in Ghent, Belgium. For the current-model XC60 (launched in 2017) production moved to the Gothenburg plant in Sweden.

This is precisely why I loathe the typical aftermarket warranties dished up by used-car yards. They are written very carefully to cover the stuff that won’t go wrong, and not cover the things that typically do fail or break. It’s often been said that these warranties are not worth the paper they’re written on, and here’s proof yet again.

What does it matter if the engine failure was caused by a radiator that is blocked, broken, cracked or leaking? The bottom line is that a dud radiator (sold with the rest of the car) appears to have caused the car to overheat and destroy its engine. And yet the fine print of this warranty will allow the warranty company to wriggle out its responsibility to repair an engine it accepted money to cover. The ACCC should get involved in this grubby end of the car trade and sort it out. Now.

As for your friend, I’m not sure what can be done. Allowing somebody with the right legal background to read the warranty might be a good idea. But the used-car dealers who profit from these warranties know the fine print backwards. And I suspect that even if the blocked radiator exclusion hadn’t scuppered her warranty cover, the fact that a previous owner did his own servicing (and therefore, no stamped service book) would have been an alternative get-out for the warranty company. Actually, that’s a thought: If the service book wasn’t fully stamped, should the warranty have even been offered when the car was sold? I’d be asking that of the car-yard.

I’d also be asking who diagnosed the radiator as the problem. If your friend noticed coolant disappearing but not leaking on to the ground, I’d say that was more consistent with a blown head gasket – for which these early Carnivals were infamous. Find out if a blown head gasket is covered in the warranty. If it is, I’d be very suspicious about blaming the radiator. And yes, I’m absolutely suggesting that you’re potentially being lied to about the cause of the engine failure to move the official reason into an area not covered by the warranty. I reckon I’d be having the RACQ (which has a fair bit of clout in these matters) inspect the engine and rule on what caused the meltdown.

Meantime, forget about a $7000 engine. Find a parts recycler (we used to call them wrecking yards) that specialises in second-hand engines and get a good, tested, used engine fitted. Just make sure it doesn’t have the same head gasket problem.

You’re on the right track with this approach. Fundamentally, you need to give the dealer (and manufacturer) the opportunity to put things right. That means giving the dealer access to the vehicle, even though that’s obviously inconvenient for you. A switched on dealership will, where possible, offer you a replacement vehicle while yours is being worked on, too.

Only when the manufacturer and dealer have told you there’s nothing that they can do should you approach the ACCC or other statutory body with your request for a refund or a new vehicle to replace the one that can’t be fixed. While ever the dealer is making an attempt to fix things, it’s wise to give them the access to do so.

For what it’s worth, the problem is likely to be something to do with the car’s body computer which is playing up and not allowing the central locking to work, while also allowing the battery to drain. What looks like a faulty battery can often be traced back to a body computer problem, particularly when the central locking is involved.

The Staria Load has a stack of standard safety features, including autonomous braking (including pedestrian and cyclist detection) blind-spot monitoring, rear cross-traffic alert, lane departure warning, lane-keep assist, adaptive cruise-control, a reversing camera and front and rear parking sensors. The best news is that those are included on every variant of the Staria Load, including the entry-level, front-wheel-drive model.

Had this been a case of you ordering a vehicle you were told would be fitted with these safety features and then discovering they weren’t included, you’d have been entitled to a refund of your deposit on the basis that the vehicle being supplied was not as described at the time you placed your order. But it seems Hyundai is being very serious about safety with this new vehicle, so those bases seem well and truly covered.