Ask The Guide

Yes, it could be something to do with the way the transmission is behaving. But it could also very easily be any one of a hundred other things. A faulty transmission can cause a car to surge while stopped, but so can a fault with the fuel, ignition and any number other systems found on a modern car.

But work backwards for a moment. Did this new problem occur immediately after the plugs and coil-packs were changed? Or was there a full week of normal driving before the new problem set in? I’d be checking the connections on those new plugs and coils and making sure that nothing has been left loose. A poor earth connection can be the source of many problems that seem like something else initially. From there, I think an electronic scan is probably the best advice as this will help pin-point what’s going wrong. The car’s own computer should have a very good idea of what’s amiss and can alert you to it quickly.

The one thing you haven’t told me, Graham, is whether your Musso has a manual or automatic gearbox. If it’s a manual, my suspicions would be with the clutch. If a clutch plate is damaged or worn, the clutch sometimes doesn’t fully disengage. That can lead to the gearbox not wanting to select gears from standstill with the engine running.

However, if the transmission is an automatic, then you could, indeed, be looking at a low transmission-fluid level. Unfortunately, the automatic gearbox in this vehicle doesn’t have a dipstick for easy checking of the level, so the first thing to do is take a look underneath the car to see if there are any leaks form the transmission. If there are signs of a fluid leak, then the vehicle needs to go to a transmission shop to have its level checked and the leak fixed.

Overall, the automatic transmission in the Musso Sport was a solid unit, but it’s now getting on a bit in years, so who knows what state the inside of the transmission is in. If you’re lucky, it will just need a service and a new filter and fluid. But there could be a lot more going on inside. Automatic transmissions rely on simple principles but very complicated assemblies. The valve body is a great example: While it relies on relative hydraulic pressure to choose a gear, the reality is a hugely complex circuit of hydraulic passages and valves.

Modern common-rail diesel engines with their sophisticated, multi-pump fuel systems and high-pressure injectors can stop in their tracks for any number of reasons, not all of them electrical. You could start by checking the battery and the charge-rate from the alternator (if the engine will restart). But you also really need to be checking the fuel system and the obvious stuff such as a dud ignition barrel that’s shutting everything down. A simple fuse or relay that controls the fuel pump system could have failed, too, with similar results.

The absolute best advice is to have the vehicle electronically scanned at a workshop with this type of diagnostic gear. By having the vehicle tell you what’s wrong with it, you’ll save a whole lot of time and money replacing random bits and pieces, hoping that you’ve identified the culprit.

A sharp clicking noise from under the dashboard when you press or release the clutch is almost certainly going to be down to a sticky or dry clutch-pedal pivot. It could also be the clutch cable itself, but for the 2013 model year, Holden switched to a hydraulic clutch for the Barina, so that rules out a cable noise. But I’ll stick with the theory that something connected to the clutch pedal is either sticking or dragging against something under there are causing the noise; there’s a fair bit going on under the dash of a modern car. A few minutes with a torch, a keen ear and a can of penetrating fluid might yield a good result.

Unless you’ve changed the way you drive, a sudden jump in fuel economy suggests something wrong with either the mechanical or electronic side of things. Have the vehicle scanned and see if it throws any fault codes. From there, you can work out what component is giving you grief and target the problem accurately, rather than mess around for weeks flying blind.

One reason for the sharp increase in fuel consumption could be that the vehicle’s diesel particulate filter (DPF) is full and needs to be regenerated. If you’re not doing long, highway miles, the computer can take matters into its own hands and dump extra fuel into the exhaust system in an attempt to get the exhaust hot enough to regenerate the filter. But you could also be dealing with a faulty fuel-pressure regulator, worn injectors or even something as simple as a blocked air filter.

This is a pretty common type of question these days. Once cars are out of warranty (and often before that time) many owners elect to use an independent workshop for their servicing rather than a dealership. But some non-dealership workshops don’t always know the little tips and tricks including how to switch off the service reminder after the scheduled service has been performed.

But here’s something you can try at home which should cancel the service light on your ASX. Turn the car’s ignition off. Now press the info button (down low on the dashboard near the steering column) until you see a small spanner icon appear in the info panel on the dashboard. Now hold down the info button until the little spanner symbol starts flashing. Once it’s flashing, release the info button again and the word `clear’ should pop up next to the spanner icon. With `clear’ displayed, press the info button one more time and you should be done. Now start the engine to make sure the service reminder light has gone out. If none of that works, a Mitsubishi dealership should be able to switch off the light for you.

This gets a bit political, because Rangers delivered after May 1, 2018 carried a five-year factory warranty, but cars sold before that date had just three years of factory cover. Which means that if your car was sold new before May 1 2018, it will now be out of warranty and, if it was sold later than that, the problem is still Ford’s as the warranty should still apply. Even so, it would seem fair that Ford should offer some pro-rata cover for a car that was built in early 2018 and missed out on the five-year warranty by a quirk of the calendar. But don’t count on it.

As for the actual problem, have you noticed any warning lights on the dashboard? If so, that could be a clue to what’s going on. But unfortunately, there are many, many things that could be making a modern turbo-diesel engine run poorly. Rough running or stuttering, for instance, could be caused by anything from a blocked fuel filter, worn fuel pump, faulty fuel-injectors or a DPF system that is blocked. Or any of literally hundreds of other things.

The best advice is to have the car electronically scanned to see if the on-board computer throws up a fault code. From there, you can home in on the actual problem without a hit-and-miss approach. That said, I would have expected a Ford dealer to have tried this already, so maybe it’s time to try another dealer. And don’t forget to press them on the warranty situation.

Any time there’s rust on a Toyota LandCruiser from Western Australia, the alarm bells start ringing. And that’s because these vehicles are frequently used by the mining industry and lead very hard – and often very short – working lives. Salt water and acidic conditions in many mines means vehicles can have a very short life expectancy. Toyota works hard to rust-proof its vehicles, but mine work will still often overcome those efforts.

The problem, as you’ve already identified, is that the person you eventually try to sell the vehicle to will be hearing the same alarm bells, and the vehicle may be difficult to on-sell even if the rust is merely superficial. That said, rust around the windows and underneath the car suggests that at the very least, the vehicle needs a close inspection by a specialist, and taking a punt on it doesn’t seem like a great idea to us. Perhaps an independent inspection by the RACWA would be a wise investment. I’d be finding out who the vehicle was previously registered to as a double-check.

Buying from a Toyota dealer should perhaps infer some kind of protection, but bear in mind that in WA, unlike a passenger car less than 10 years old, a commercial vehicle (such as a LandCruiser ute) does not come with any statutory warranty. Ex-mine vehicles are often sold relatively cheaply. Your current experience is why.

According to VicRoads (the Victorian state registration authority) you can change standard issue number-plates for another standard set with a different registration number by taking the old plates to a VicRoads office, proving your identity, paying the fee and handing in the old plates. As well as new number-plates, you’ll also be given a new registration certificate reflecting the new rego number. This is also the process to follow if your number-plates have been lost, stolen or damaged.

If it’s custom or personalised number-plates you want, VicRoads has a huge range of options and prices available. Check out the vicroads.vic.gov.au website for the full details.

Let me guess; you have either a shorter family member or a car-port or garage with limited height clearance. You might have thought it would be as easy as phoning Subaru Australia and asking the question. Which is what I did, but Subaru Australia couldn’t give me the answer. It’s just not included in the specifications supplied by the Subaru factory. Apparently.

So, I grabbed a tape-measure and headed to a Subaru dealer who allowed me to measure the XV’s tailgate. So here’s how it pans out (bearing in mind I didn’t have a ladder, so the measurements might not be millimetre-perfect): The distance from the ground to the highest part of the open tailgate is 2100mm (as I said, give or take a few); the distance from the ground to the lowest part of the grab-handle that closes the tailgate is 1960mm. Hopefully that helps you out.