Toyota Problems

LISTEN to your mechanic. If there's no sign of a problem, I wouldn't change them. But if your trips are going to take you way off the beaten track, consider changing the plugs as part of a service before you leave.

Like you, I read about these systems and the claims their designers make for them, but my experience is that they rarely, if ever, work out in real life. If they really did work, why aren't they taken up by carmakers? The fact that they aren't seems to answer your question.

AT THE moment the Europeans lead the way with diesels, driven on by European countries that provide concessions to car buyers to go diesel and reduce the dependence on oil. Though local makers are all looking at diesels, there are no plans to introduce them. Probably the most interesting new diesel model to arrive here is the VW Caddy Life, a Golf-based people mover. All cars sold here with diesel engines have the latest technology. There's little to pick between them.

GENERALLY carmakers recommend changing the cam timing belt about 100,000km, but Toyota's service point is 150,000km and there's no reason to question that recommendation. There is no history or belt breakage with the Camry so I would stick to the Toyota recommendation.

DEPOSITS do build up on injectors in time, making the engine run rough and causing loss of power. Some dealers recommend cleaning them as a precaution, but I would be reluctant unless the engine is running poorly. The cost you have been quoted is far too high. An injector-cleaning specialist would typically charge about $100.

VICTORIAN Autogas Supplies has a dual-fuel sequential injection system for the Prado. The company replaces the rear petrol tank with an LPG tank, then replaces the tank guard so it looks original. Interior space is not affected, but overall petrol capacity is reduced. It costs about $3200 plus GST.

DRAGAN Vasic from All-Terrain 4x4 says the life of the standard clutch in the 100-Series is 80,000-120,000km depending on the type of use. Heavy offroading or towing reduces the life. Fitting a heavy-duty clutch doubles the life.

ACCORDING to the government guide, your car cannot run on unleaded petrol without an additive, so the best advice is to run it on regular, or premium unleaded if you can afford it, and add a commercial lead replacement additive available from your servo.

THE market is flat so your trade-in figure is a little optimistic. I would work on $1000 less.

LOWERING a car changes the geometry of the suspension, and the drive shafts, which may account for the amplification. A vibration will often travel through the car, causing other components to resonate. Go through the normal driving process that you know causes the vibration, and while you're doing it identify when it occurs, at what speed, whether slowing down, accelerating, brakes on, brakes off, coasting and so on. I'd check the brakes, looking for a sticking calliper, uneven pad wear, or foreign objects stuck in the disc. The things you mention seem to be focused on what's happening as a result of the vibration, not the cause of the vibration itself.