Car Servicing

Shorter days mean more time driving in the dark of night or the semi-darkness of dawn or dusk, which limits visibility. Throw in rain, hail, snow and fog, and it's even harder to see.To combat it we need to do everything we can within our power to enhance our visibility.The first barrier to good visibility is the windscreen and windows through which we view the road ahead and what is around us.It's fundamentally important to regularly clean the windscreen as well as the side and rear windows to enhance our visibility in all directions.Don't just clean them on the outside; also clean them on the inside to remove the accumulation of plasticisers and cigarette smoke and other airborne contaminants that clouds our view of the outside world.Using hot water on a cold windscreen will almost certainly crack itOn really cold winter mornings we often wake to find our windows covered with ice and in our rush to get on the road we're tempted to clear it away using hot water.Using hot water on a cold windscreen will almost certainly crack it. Use cold water straight from the tap, it's warm enough to melt the ice and you won't damage your windscreen.Make sure your wipers are operating correctly, that's on low speed, high speed, and intermittent settings.Also check the wiper blades and replace them if they're showing signs of wear. Consider replacing them even if they're not, they're cheap and can be replaced in a matter of minutes.Also make sure the windscreen washers are working, that there are no blockages in the nozzles, and they're aimed correctly at the wiped area of the windscreen.Make it a routine to check the windscreen washer reservoir and keep it topped up with a mix of water and anti-freeze as per the carmaker's recommendations. If you're not sure check your owner's manual.Don't forget to check the wipers and washers on the headlights.We rely even more on our lights in the winter months, so it's a good time to check they're all working.Switch on the lights and walk around the car checking the headlights – on low and high beam – the parking lights, tail lights and turn indicators, including the side repeater lamps.With the engine turned off, but the ignition switched on, place the transmission into reverse and check that the reversing lamps are operating.Check the emergency warning flashers are all operating, they will be of vital importance if you're stuck on the side of the road.Finally, check that all brake lights are working. You might need someone else to check the lights for you while you apply the brakes from the driver's seat, but if you can't find anyone to help out the reflection in a shop window can be useful.Repair any lights that are not working, replacing a globe is a simple job that only takes a few minutes.Keeping the windscreen and other windows clear of mist is the job of the heater/demister or air-conditioner so make sure they're working and efficiently demisting the windows.The air-conditioning system is more effective at demisting the windows than the heater/demister because it removes the moisture from the air that actually causes the misting.While you're at it check the rear window wiper, washer and demister to make sure they are all in good working order.Batteries come under extra strain during winter when they have to power the lights, wipers and washers, heaters and air-conditioners, and have enough left over to turn over a cranky engine on cold mornings.It's usually on those freezing cold mornings deep in winter when batteries call it quits.Before it gets to that check the battery. Remove any build-up on the battery posts terminals to ensure there is good contact.If you need to replace the battery do it with one that has sufficient cold cranking power to handle the load in your car.The tread on our tyres plays a vital role when the roads are wet. The function of the tread is to pump water away from the contact patch where the tyre contacts the road.As the tread wears down its efficiency to remove water from the contact patch is reduced, and beyond the legal tread depth limit it's virtually useless.Before winter takes hold inspect your tyres for tread wear and measure the depth of the tread. If they're heavily worn replace them.Don't forget the spare.It's also important to maintain the correct inflation pressure in the tyres. By doing that you'll ensure that the tread area in contact with the road is at its most effective.

Carmakers spend millions of dollars squeezing every last little bit of fuel consumption out of the cars we buy, but all of that hard work can be for nothing

I just had my last warranty service for my 2012 Peugeot 508 after three years and was told that my front brakes still have about 70 percent left but the rear units only have around 30 percent. As a consequence, the rear brakes will probably require new pads, and possibly rotors, in about 10,000 km time at an estimated cost of $800. It has only travelled 32,000 km and I was really surprised that the rear pads were so worn compared to the front pads, as in my experience, front pads usually wear out much more quickly. I realize that the Euro's generally use softer compounds, but I am generally easy on my brakes and my last car, a 2005 Commodore SV6, travelled 95,000 km on its original front and rear pads. The majority of my current 32,000 km has been off-peak on freeways or country roads and I don't do any towing or 'ride' my brakes. Can this be viewed as normal wear and tear?

Where can I get information on the Crosstrack AWD system used on the Holden Adventra? There’s nothing about it in any of the workshop manuals I have been able to find.

An airconditioner compressor for a 2000 Hyundai Accent costs $620 in Australia yet the internet price delivered from the US is $179. The Toyota price for a V8 diesel fuel injector is $800 but Toyota New Zealand price is $220. Mack truck owners tell me they can import parts from the US for a third of the Australian price. Please tell the readers why Australian vehicle spare parts are so expensive.

Toyota is way behind on industry standards on service intervals and the updated Land Cruiser 200 is a good example, with service intervals of six months/10,000km, which is well behind other vehicles in the same class. Many of the European diesel rivals have had 12 month/20,000km service intervals for well over 15 years with no issues. I am wondering whether Toyota is over-servicing the vehicles, or if their vehicle technology is out of date. I have a fleet of Toyota work vans and the 10,000km service intervals are a real pain. Some of the diesel Iveco commercial vehicles have service intervals over 30,000km.

A warning to Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series turbo diesel owners. Toyota says you only need to replace the fuel filter when the warning light comes on — we shouldn't think that this will be part of a normal service. It's not even mentioned in the service schedules. It will stop the vehicle if not attended to within 300km-500km. This happened to me in the middle of nowhere with no phone reception. Before you start a big trip around Australia, spend $30 on a new fuel filter and carry a spare.

Are Mazda dealers deliberately charging customers for unnecessary extras when servicing their cars? Two dealers I have used recently to service my 2013 Mazda automatically added a charge for the "optional" premium motor oil. Challenged, both tried to explain it away with reasons like, best for your car, that's the only oil we stock. I reminded both this was an optional extra and customers must be asked. Both removed the charge. Additionally, one dealer attempted to charge me for tyre rotation (included service). I was advised that the rotation was free, but the charge was for wheel balancing. It was sold to me as  "essential". Strange no previous Mazda dealer had "suggested" this "essential" charge when they rotated my car's tyres. If I hadn't challenged these extras I would have incurred an additional 12.8 percent cost over my "fixed price" service charge. I suspect most customers would just go with the dealer on these. A nice little earner for the dealers.

My 2014 Nissan Pulsar turbo has only 28,000km on the speedo. At the last service at 20,000km, the dealership said I had a tyre with a non-fixable puncture. I took the car to my tyre guy who checked it and said there was nothing wrong with it. I don't want to go back to the dealer, so if I get the service done by a mechanic I trust, will my warranty be OK?

My wife and I did a four-week road trip through England, Scotland and Wales in a rental Mercedes-Benz E220. In Blackpool I tried to film the wonderful illuminations on a dashcam for the grandkids but the power outlet was dead. Thinking it was just a fuse I visited the local Mercedes dealer and explained the situation. A particularly rude service manager gave me many excuses as to why they couldn't help at short notice, a task I thought would have taken a couple of minutes. The choice of vehicle was intended as a long-term test drive but if this is the attitude of Mercedes dealers I think I'll stick to Ford.