Car Servicing

I am another one cursed by a faulty transmission in my 2009 Holden Cruze and can no longer get it to drive. It will reverse but there is no forward movement. I purchased it as a used car from a Holden dealership, so should I be able to get them to fix it or should I call Holden directly, and are my chances any good seeing as I bought it 18 months ago?

My 2011 VE Holden Commodore Series II, which has done 190,000 km, has a terrible klunking noise in the engine, it has no power and the engine light is on. Holden can't fix it. They think it's the rods, but are not 100 percent sure. They said I need a new engine, but they only do genuine and can no longer get an engine for my model. What should I do?

Generally I have found car batteries last me up to about four years but late last year I replaced my Toyota Prado battery after just over 11 years. After an RACV jump-start at the airport I went to my local Toyota dealer and asked if I could buy another Japanese battery like the one fitted. But it seems that sort of battery is not available here. Also, I have five jobs that require batteries — tractor, motor mower etc — which under normal conditions last four years if I am lucky, so I rotate a diagnostic charger on these all the time, which turns itself on and off as necessary. Do you think this really makes batteries last longer and should I also use it on cars if left for a week or so without use, as I do?

Have you proof of the reliability and longevity of the Korean 4WDs you now prefer over the Japanese models? The Korean vehicles are made from a lighter steel for the panels. I know of friends that have petrol 12-year-old Toyota Prados that have run 380,000km with no major problems but do you know of Korean units that have given that? If you do, I stand corrected.

I heard it’s a myth that car companies must supply car parts for at least 10 years after a vehicle was built. If it is a myth, do you think that would stop people from buying Holden Commodores and Ford Falcons once they close their factories?

I purchased a 2010 X3 privately in October last year from an owner who was meticulous. It was a one owner, with low km, a BMW service and RWC. In February whilst parked in my carport the rear passenger door window "spontaneously exploded". I photographed the damage, having never seen anything like it before and contacted the BMW dealer to book it in for repairs. I then began to search the Internet for possible causes of this and to see whether this is a common occurrence. I also contacted an automotive glass engineer who explained to me that this was most probably caused by nickel sulphide inclusions created in the tempered glass manufacturing process and the age of my vehicle corresponded with the time it would explode if present. 

I explained all this, provided photos and requested that BMW pay for the replacement as this was a fault in the build of the vehicle and not due to any other causes i.e. driver or environmental. On the Tuesday I took the car in for inspection the door panel was removed, most of the glass shards removed and the regulator and cables inspected. I was told the mechanics of the car were in fine working order and the window ordered. I was told there was still no reply from BMW. On the Thursday I took the car back to have the window replaced. I couldn't hold off as the car was not secure to drive and park in its current state. Again, I was told there was no answer yet and they took the car to service. When I went to collect the car in the afternoon I was told they had not yet heard and I had to pay $850 for the repair and submit an email for reimbursement. 

I was not happy, felt I had been treated like a fool, but had to pay to get my car. Still, I submitted my claim, again detailing all the information, photos and confirmation from the expert and, unsurprisingly, was knocked back for refund. One week later I am in the back seat of my car and wind the window down (first time) and back up when there was a "clunk" sound and the window wouldn't wind. I rang BMW the next morning, took the car in the day after that and was advised that the cable had snapped and needed replacing and should look at replacing the regulator too, cost to me $960! I told the service advisor that this could only be as a result of incorrect fitting of the window I should not have had to pay for and am speechless that they would deny any wrongdoing. I have received an email today offering me 10 percent discount on parts and labour. I have never dealt with BMW before and am in tears at the appalling manner with which I am being treated now. Can you help me please?

Several times over a number of months my Holden Astra has lost power without explanation. On each occasion I turned the ignition off, then on again, and the car restarted. Can you help?

I have a Mazda BT-50 and, from the time it was new in 2012, I have broken four driveshafts. On the fourth occurrence, Mazda refused to cover it under warranty, claiming the break was caused by "regular use in harsh environments". The vehicle has been off-road - it is a 4WD after all - but no more than twice a year and over very short distances. In fact, for the last 100,000km the vehicle was used on highways by my wife as I spent that time deployed overseas with the ADF.

I brought a Ford Falcon XR6 EcoLPI in 2013 and was never told there were any issues with the gas tank. In early 2014 we encountered a problem filling the gas tank on a hot day — 44 degrees. The service station attendant told us that on hot days we wouldn't be able to fill the tank as the gas expands. We waited over an hour for the tank to cool and then threw water on the tank under the car to cool it. Recently I stopped at Gundagai to fill the tank as I was nearly on empty. It was 5.30pm and overcast, the dash readout was 28 degrees and I had only been driving for four hours — and I still couldn't refill. It's been so hot since the new year that we haven't been able to fill it so it has sat in our garage. Ford Australia says it's aware of the problem, it's covered in the owner's manual and I should have been aware of this. But I haven't found anything in the manual.

After a major service including a replacement water pump at a cost of $2000, we travelled less than 195 km over several weeks in our 2007 Toyota Prado and our motor/radiator blew up, melting the tappet cover and suffering major damage throughout. An independent report states: "There is severe damage to the engine as a result of being severely overheated. The cylinder head is soft, unrecoverable and requires replacement. The plastic on the tappet cover has been melted over the camshaft. The engine is not sludged-up at all and all of the bearings float with no bearing damage. If there were anything on the pick-up, it would be from the pistons melting. There is no evidence whatsoever of any oil starvation, as suggested".

The Servicing Mechanic (not a Toyota Mechanic) stated: "Unfortunately your Independent report did not have an explanation as to why there was no oil in or on the cylinder head, why the tappet cover had melted, as it is not part of the cooling system, and was only damaged at the rear of the fuel rail. Furthermore, as to why pressure test showed no leaks, the temperature gauge did not rise and severe noise and lack of engine performance was not noticed. In our knowledge and experience, if there were an air lock in the cooling system your vehicle could not have travelled 195 km with or without towing your van as stated. Severe overheating would be evident in damage to the radiator, header tank, radiator cap and or coolant hoses, with little or no fluid left in system. No damage or failures were found in this area. We recommend further testing be carried out on fuel, oil pump and aftermarket performance chip fitted to your vehicle". 

Looks like we will be footing the bill for a reconditioned or new motor and no one can give us an exact costing until they start pulling the vehicle apart. We are going around in circles. We are told a motor would range from $6000 (reconditioned) to $12,000 (new) and the price could escalate depending on what other damage there is when they do the job. As we are not mechanics and can only state that other than the air-conditioner stopping and the vehicle losing power, we managed to pull to side of the road and stop. Next thing severe steam escaped and vehicle was no longer drivable. On no occasion did we hear any knocking or noise coming from the motor. What would be the advantages/disadvantaged of putting a reconditioned motor in versus a new motor? Where do people go to get assistance on this type of problem, we keep getting conflicting information?