Car Servicing

Since 2011 our 2006 Toyota Camry Altise since has had a really noisy rattle in manifold. Toyota knew this was a problem, but didn't suggest anything until we mentioned it. They informed us that it was the diaphragm in the manifold and it was okay to continue driving. We were quoted $800 for the part, plus installation at the time. It seems others have had this issue and Toyota have known it exists. We feel the price is excessive and a fault with the vehicle which should have been rectified by Toyota in the beginning. Has anyone else had issues with this?

I converted my 2009 Holden Colorado LTR to gas and now I have the engine warning light appearing on the dash. I took the car back but they couldn't find the problem and they think it's just the computer not reading the gas properly because it's different to petrol. It's been on gas for about 4-5 months now.

Like Martin Burgess I too am a 2009 Hyundai iLoad diesel owner that suffered a decrease in performance and power. It was like a switch had been flicked and all power was heavily restricted. My mechanic downloaded the data from the van's ECU and it indicated low fuel pressure as a problem. He serviced it and fitted new filters and it was ok for a couple of weeks, but the problem came back. Everything pointed to the fuel filter and when they cut it open they found it was clogged with what looked like whitish jell. They then cleaned out the tank and fuel pick-up and filled it with fresh diesel. It turns out at some point I had filled up with rubbishy diesel and that was the cause of all my problems. I take my hat off to James and Shane of Brisbane Automotive and Mechanical for fixing the problem.

Recently a couple of warning lights in my wife's 2006 Honda Accord Euro came on. The technician at the dealer informed me that ants had penetrated the ECU and damaged the motherboard. He said they had seen this a couple of times before and it only happens to Accord Euros. The only way to fix it was to replace the ECU at a cost of around $1700 for a new one or find a second hand unit. I managed to source a second-hand one and had it fitted at a cost of $700. When I spoke to Honda I was told that it was a 'force of nature' issue, not their problem and were not interested in assisting in the cost of repairing the car. Since when has an ECU needed ongoing maintenance to protect it from ant invasion? Considering that we purchased this car new, have a full log book service history and have always kept the car garaged bar a couple of months in over six years I find their response lame and they have lost us as customers forever. I and no one I have spoken to have ever heard of such a thing happening to a car.

I recently had my VW Amarok in for a 45,000km service. When I inspected my front brakes before the service I noticed that my disc rotors seemed noticeably worn but my brake pads had around 50 per cent wear. After the service the report stated that my disc rotors were only just legally over the maximum wear tolerance. I discussed the issue with VW and explained if the vehicle had travelled over 45,000km and the brake pads were only half worn I am obviously not a heavy braker and there must be a fault with the disc rotors. I was told that as far as VW were concerned this is not a valid warranty issue and brake pads or rotors are not permitted as warranty issues. Disappointed in this response I rang VW customer care and was told that VW did not approve warranty on brake issues. Does VW expect Amarok drivers to replace two sets of disc rotors with each set of brake pads? I feel this is extremely unsafe that a disc rotor is worn out at twice the rate of a disc pad.

I read that you stated running in is important and can have a dramatic effect on your vehicle's performance. Having only bought second-hand in the past, we're looking at purchasing a new car and were wondering the best way to run-in a new car?

Regarding Denis Kelly's e-mail about a rattle in his Subaru Forester, my 2013 Liberty GT had an annoying rattle and after many hours of searching it turned out to be the passenger side seat belt hitting the door, The Subaru salesman told me this happens in the Forester. It could be the answer to Denis's problem.

A few weeks ago I noticed a significant loss in power in my 2010 turbo-diesel Hyundai iLoad. There are no other engine issues I can see, but I have a strong feeling the turbo is no longer functioning. I am constantly changing down gears on slight hills, whereas previously, there was no issue. The dealer says there is no problem with it I googled the net and discovered a number of other owners saying similar things about the turbo issue, but Hyundai says there is no known issue with the turbo. They promised to investigate and would get back to me within 24 hours, but I haven't heard back yet. I am concerned, because I am in my final year of warranty, and want the problem rectified before the expiration date. Are you aware of any such issue? And if you are, can you suggest a possible cause / remedy?

Last year my business partner and I purchased two new 2012 Holden Colorados. Besides the extremely poor build of these cars, including rattling seats, squeaky strut tops, I am having difficulties getting the dealer to repair a faulty seatbelt pre-tensioner, a fault they diagnosed. They say the part is on back order; it has been since about February. I have effectively a new vehicle with airbags that will not work in an accident situation, which worries my wife, and a warning light and constant dinging from the dash. I really would like to take this issue further with a higher authority but am at a loss? Their customer service is appalling, our calls, e-mails etc. are never returned.

With respect to the recent report in Ask Smithy of a problem with a Mitsubishi Triton GLXR dual-cab I can say that as ex-Mitsubishi man, there are a few concerns that don't show up with the diagnostic tools. These models are prone to soot build-up and blocked intake manifolds, MAP sensors or EGRs are common, but all usually leave a trouble code. It's more than likely in this case a sticking Suction Control Valve. Turning the car off stops the bind, it loosens and then restarts, accelerates and runs ok. If there were no trouble codes, I'd try the Suction Control Valve.