Are you having problems with your Mazda? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Mazda issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Mazda in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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If we’re talking about the current model D-Max and BT-50, then yes, the entire driveline should be interchangeable. Under the skin, both the Mazda and Isuzu utes are the same vehicle. Car makers enter into joint ventures like the development of this pair of vehicles to keep costs down by sharing the expense of developing, engineering and testing parts like engines, transmissions and, of course, drive-shafts and CV joints.
While most joint ventures like this one will arrive at two vehicles with some visual differences and usually some details differences inside, when it comes to the oily bits, making specific driveline or suspension parts for one vehicle over the other is defeating the purpose of the joint venture in the first place.
It's quite probable that the check-engine light was triggered by the worn out condition of the battery you replaced, not the brand new one being fitted. Such cars hate low voltages, and that's precisely what a worn battery produces. That said, changing the battery can sometimes cause a modern, computerised car to throw a fault code, and when that happens, the check-engine light will illuminate.
You can try to re-set the vehicle's computer by disconnecting the battery and leaving it for an hour. Then reconnect the battery and see if the light has disappeared. If it hasn't, it may be that the computer simply needs to relearn a few parameters after having been disconnected from the power when the original battery change was made. A decent drive might return things to normal.
But don't forget the basics: Check the condition and cleanliness of the battery leads, terminals and make sure that all the connections are tight. If there's still no joy, have the vehicle electronically scanned and let the computer tell you precisely what's wrong.
Anything is possible if you have enough money to throw at the project, but at some point, each project begins to cost more than it will ever be worth.
The real mystery, though, is how you came by a petrol-powered BT-50. In Australia, the BT-50 was sold only with a range of diesel powerplants. Petrol-powered BT-50s were made and sold in regions such as the Americas, South Africa and parts of Asia, but not here. Either that or you have a Mazda fitted with a Ford Ranger engine, as Ford did offer 2.5-litre petrol engine on Rangers from 2011 to 2015, but only on base-model, two-wheel-drive versions. That option was then discontinued.
So maybe you have a privately imported Mazda, at which point, it’s very hard to know what diesel engines will and won’t fit. The bottom line is that if you want a Mazda BT-50 with a diesel engine, the simplest thing to do is simply buy one. Chances are you’ll spend less overall than converting an existing car from petrol to diesel. Swapping a petrol engine for a diesel could involve everything from a different fuel system, wiring, transmission, differential ratios and even things like the radiator and front springs. It’s a big job.
Early this year, Hyundai issued a recall for some Konas built between 2020 and 2022 to deal with problems with the eight-speed dual-clutch transmission which could cause a loss of drive and, therefore, a dangerous situation on the road. So the first check would be to see if your car you're looking at is affected by that recall (a Hyundai dealer will be able to tell you by looking up the car's VIN). If the car is one of the affected ones but the recall's fixes have been applied, then you have less to worry about.
The Kona's engine problems, meanwhile, were another cause for a safety recall after it was discovered that a batch of Konas had defective piston rings which could cause early engine wear and possibly even a fire. Again, these problems were being fixed by Hyundai, but you need to check whether the example you're looking at buying was one of the affected ones and what's been done about it by the previous owner.
The Mazda CX-3 of the same era has not been without its recalls either, including one for a suspension joint that could fail, but overall, the experience of owners suggests the Mazda could be the less risky bet. Again, though, check the service and recall history of any car before handing over the money.
Both these cars are well equipped, well built and have a good reputation in the trade. Which means you won’t regret buying either of them. In turn, that means that the decision will come down to whether the extra standard equipment of the Astina model outweighs the factory warranty of the SP25 GT.
The extra gear in the Astina amounted to 10-way adjustable powered front seats with a memory function, specific 18-inch alloy wheels, a sunroof, radar cruise-control, forward obstacle warning, adaptive headlights, lane departure warning and lane keeping assistance, and smart brake support. Whether you reckon that standard gear is better than a year of so of factory warranty is entirely up to you. The only problem being that when the warranty runs out, you might start to think differently about the relative value of the two cars.
After 100,000 hard off-road kilometres, you'd be wise to check pretty much every system and component of your car, including the wheel bearings. Bush tracks and rough regional roads put all sorts of stresses and strains on mechanical bits like bearings, suspension, brakes, bushes and the whole driveline.
If you read most owner's manuals closely, you'll see that the recommended servicing schedule is based on normal or moderate use, not hard-core off-road work like you've been doing. With that in mind, the advice is to shrink the service intervals and the distances at which major parts like wheel bearing are checked and/or replaced. Give some thought to changing out the vehicle's fluids, too, including the front and rear differentials, as contamination from water crossings can destroy the lubricant and lead to extensive internal wear.
I'd need to know a bit more about this case to really know where you stand here. Was the whole engine (including the turbocharger) replaced at the same time? Or was the basic engine replaced and the existing accessories (such as the turbo) carried over form the original engine? If the latter is the case, then the turbo would not be covered by the new engine's warranty. But if it was all replaced as a brand-new engine, then you might find the turbocharger is, indeed, covered by the warranty.
But here's where it gets a bit murky. You say the new engine was supplied by Mazda, so presumably, that was at a Mazda dealership. Did they fit a genuine Mazda replacement engine, or was it a reconditioned engine sourced independently? This, too, can have a huge effect on what warranty comes with the replacement engine and what's actually included in the warranty.
The rule of thumb states that if the engine fires on starting fluid sprayed down the intake, but won’t run on the fuel in its tank, the first thing to check is the fuel pump. Just because there was some fuel present when you cracked the seal on the fuel injector, does not necessarily mean that there’s enough of it or the fuel pressure is sufficient to start the engine.
Modern common-rail diesel engines use very sophisticated fuel systems which use super-high pressure. Without a pump to build up to this pressure, the injector won’t deliver the right amount of fuel for successful running. But you should also check the operation of the glow-plugs as well as the condition of the fuel filters. An electronic scan is also a good idea at this point, before you start replacing expensive bits and pieces.
Be extra careful fiddling with engines like this one, especially if you’re messing about with the injectors and fuel system. The inherent pressures are so high, that a leak can act like a water-jet cutter; sufficiently powerful to remove a finger.
The default purchase for somebody looking for a mid-sized hybrid SUV is the Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. But if that’s too big, there’s the Toyota Yaris Cross Hybrid, C-HR Hybrid and even the Corolla Cross Hybrid which sounds like the marketplace is getting crowded but is really just a reflection of the appetite right now for cars like these. And that’s the catch; the waiting times for a brand-new example of some of these cars is out to many months and even years. So your plan to shop second-hand makes plenty of sense, but don’t expect any bargains in a market currently being dominated by lots of demand and less supply.
Beyond the Toyota brand (which has been doing hybrids longer than just about anybody else) there’s also the Mazda CX-30, Subaru XV Hybrid, Haval Jolion Hybrid, Kia Niro, Subaru Forester Hybrid, Nissan Qashqai e-Power, MG HS, Honda HR-V e and more. For something a bit bigger, try the Kia Sorento or Hyundai Santa Fe hybrids. There are others out there, too, that are probably bigger or more expensive than you need, but it's very much a growing scene in the Australian marketplace.
If the door flies open when you unlatch it, it sounds as though the problem might be with the check-strap, rather than the hinge. The check-strap has the job of limiting the amount the door can open and avoid it flinging into whatever is parked beside you. If the actual hinge was the problem, the door would almost certainly drop when you opened it, making it very difficult to close again.
In either case, though, it should be a pretty clear case of a legitimate warranty claim, and a 2020 Mazda is still well within the factory warranty period, regardless of whether you're the original owner or not.
Take the car straight back to the dealership you bought it from and there should be no arguing over having it fixed free of charge. I'm a bit surprised a car dealership would sell a car with this sort of problem, but it might simply be that the item was overlooked when the vehicle was being prepared for sale. The bottom line is that this is Mazda's problem, not yours and according to the warranty, it should be fixed for free. The only exception to that would be if the damaged part was caused by previous crash-damage, but even then, the second-hand car warranty offered by the dealer should cover such a pre-existing problem.