Mazda BT-50 Problems

This is, indeed, a known problem with Ford (and other) automatic transmissions. The layout of your transmission uses the engine’s coolant to cool the transmission by running a transmission fluid line through the radiator. And yes, when that line fails, the coolant mixes with the transmission fluid. That leads the transmission to fail mechanically (the coolant doesn’t lubricate the transmission) as well as the coolant destroying the transmission’s computer.

By insurance, I take it that you took out an extended mechanical insurance policy when you bought the car, because general car insurance won’t cover mechanical failures such as this. Given the get-out clauses with which some of these policies are riddled, I’m not surprised that you aren’t covered for the full cost of the repair.

Mazda increased its factory warranty to five years/unlimited kilometres in August 2018, but when your car was new, it was covered for only three years. I’d still be giving my Mazda dealer a call, though, as you might find the relatively low kilometres you’ve covered might convince them to make a pro-rata offer for part of the repair costs. I wouldn’t hold my breath, but it’s got to be worth a try. And, no, I don’t consider 98,000km to be a reasonable distance for a modern transmission to fail.

Many owners have changed from a dual-mass flywheel when changing the clutch in their utes, and none have reported a major vibration problem after the change. I would doubt it is the flywheel that’s the problem, look elsewhere in the driveline.

I agree the head unit would be a logical thing to check. Mazda has a responsibility to fix the problem, so put the onus on them to come up with a solution, and keep the pressure on them until they do.

This is, indeed, a known problem with Ford (and other) automatic transmissions. The layout of your transmission uses the engine’s coolant to cool the transmission by running a transmission fluid line through the radiator. And yes, when that line fails, the coolant mixes with the transmission fluid. That leads the transmission to fail mechanically (the coolant doesn’t lubricate the transmission) as well as the coolant destroying the transmission’s computer.

By insurance, I take it that you took out an extended mechanical insurance policy when you bought the car, because general car insurance won’t cover mechanical failures such as this. Given the get-out clauses with which some of these policies are riddled, I’m not surprised that you aren’t covered for the full cost of the repair.

Mazda increased its factory warranty to five years/unlimited kilometres in August 2018, but when your car was new, it was covered for only three years. I’d still be giving my Mazda dealer a call, though, as you might find the relatively low kilometres you’ve covered might convince them to make a pro-rata offer for part of the repair costs. I wouldn’t hold my breath, but it’s got to be worth a try. And, no, I don’t consider 98,000km to be a reasonable distance for a modern transmission to fail.

I’ve hard of this before and it usually seems the cause has something to do with the wiring that controls these warning lights. It could either be a bad earth or a broken wire, but in most cases the symptoms are the same; a flashing 4WD indicator light when the vehicle is in two-wheel-drive. I’ve also heard of dud ABS sensors triggering the same, or similar, warning lights on the dashboard.

These vehicles use servos to engage four-wheel-drive (unlike older vehicles which used a manual lever pulled on by the driver) so there’s a level of electronics involved. And that always means potential problems as the cars age, particularly a vehicle that may have seen its share of rough stuff over the years.

The best advice is to have a Mazda specialist interrogate the on-board computer, at which point the car should give up all its dirty little secrets, including why it thinks it’s in four-wheel-drive when it’s not.

We contacted Mazda specifically on your behalf, and its response is that only some grades have an engine cover. Ones that do not are the base XT, while the XTR and GT versions do have a cover. We hope this helps.

There are many things you should look out for before buying a second-hand workhorse like an XL 4x2 ute. Most never have an easy life.

Are there signs of abuse and/or neglect? How was the tray/load bed used, was it a tow vehicle and what does the type of wear and tear does it have?  Was the vehicle off the road at any time, and why? This may indicate a major accident.

Finding answers requires a level of trust and taking the vendor's word at face value, but you can back these up with service records and history. Are they complete, and carried out by a Ford dealer or specific Ford specialist? If the answer to either is no, then that should be a red flag. In our opinion, these vehicles require specialised Ford maintenance.

Furthermore, having 15,000km service intervals is a bit of a stretch for such hard-working vehicles, so skipped ones is especially worrying.

We also recommend taking the Ranger to an independent mechanic for inspection, especially to check the body and suspension underneath for signs of over-loading or off-roading. 

Since the PX generation was launched in 2011 Ford has issued many recalls for the Ranger, and some are serious, including for being a fire hazard over tall grass due to exposed exhaust. The car's service history will indicate whether all recalls have been carried. You can crosscheck them at this website: https://www.productsafety.gov.au/recalls 

Rangers are known to have issues with the automatic transmission, engine control module (ECM) failures (that send the truck into 'limp home mode' in hotter climates or after long-distance driving), air-conditioning, turbos and engine crank bearing. Most of these should be picked up by an experienced mechanical check-up before buying, or sorted out under warranty if you decide on a newer model.

This sort of advice applies to all used trucks. Fundamentally, the T6 Ranger is a solid, safe, durable, comfortable and enjoyable truck to own and drive, and remains the only one (along with the T6-based Mazda BT-50 from 2012 to mid-2020) that is designed, developed and engineered for Australian conditions, so don't be put off.

Just make sure it has history, ask pointed questions about how it's been used and don't be afraid to insist on a mechanic's report.

We hope this helps. Good luck.

For a few years from 2005, Nissan sold two types of Navaras in Australia - the all-new big D40 series and the old D22 that dated back from the latter 1990s. 

If you want an inexpensive, compact and hard-wearing truck that's reliable but not very refined nor comfortable, the old D22 is it. Its 3.0L turbo-diesel has proven strong and reliable in this application and the Nissan has a reputation for being as tough as nails.

The larger and newer D40, meanwhile, is the much better choice if space, safety and refinement are priorities, and remained a class-leading proposition right up until the current-generation Ford Ranger, Mazda BT-50 and Volkswagen Amarok all moved the pick-up truck game on in 2011. The Spanish-built ST-X is the choice grade, especially in turbo-diesel and 4x4 guise.

The Navara is considered a reliable and dependable truck, but many are also workhorses that lead tough lives and are often neglected or mistreated. If you're after one, please consider having it checked out first by an experienced mechanic.

Known issues include fuel-injection failure, roof rust, premature clutch wear in manual  models, electronics issues, turbo-charger failures and sagging rear springs.

Such problems can apply to any similar truck, so don't be too put off by the D40 Navara. It's a firm used-truck favourite for good reason.

You’ll almost certainly cause the dashboard to present you with a `check engine’ warning light, Brett, as blocking off the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve is an intrinsic part of the vehicle’s emission controls. Having the vehicle go into limp-home mode is a very real possibility as well.

But perhaps more financially damaging would be the consequences of being caught driving the vehicle with a blocked-off EGR. The government takes a very dim view of anybody disabling any part of a car’s emission controls and the fines for doing so can be huge.

However, I know this is a real issue for many owners of modern turbo-diesels. The problem is that soot from the exhaust gas is mixed with oily fumes from the crankcase and then ingested by the engine as part of keeping emissions down. But the mixture of oil and soot can form a black gunge that can block the intake system. Really, though, blocking the EGR is a fairly clumsy way of getting around this. My advice would be to fit an oil separator which should keep the oily mist from the crankcase ventilation out of the equation.

Opinions are divided on this subject, Steve, but there’s a school of thought that says you shouldn’t tow anything heavy in an overdrive gear. Manual-gearbox Toyota LandCruisers of the last 30 years or so are prime examples of this, and hauling a heavy load in fifth gear in these can destroy a gearbox real quick. But all vehicles will be better off with overdrive locked out while towing; it’s just kinder to the driveline. So, your decision to tow in fifth gear rather than sixth is a sound one.

The only catch with some vehicles is that both fifth and sixth gears are overdriven. But fifth gear in the BT-50’s automatic gearbox is not, it’s 1:1, so you should be fine as long as you don’t exceed the manufacturer’s towing limits at any stage.

As for putting bigger wheels and tyres on the BT-50, you’d actually be altering the gearing, making it taller, which means the vehicle may not cover ground as effortlessly as it does now. Hills and headwinds might require more throttle, too, and that will mean higher fuel consumption.