Air-conditioning relies on fans as well as the actual refrigeration system to move the chilled air around the cabin. If the fan isn’t working, that won’t happen. So a check of the fan in question would be a good place to start. Perhaps there’s a wiring fault, maybe the fan is intermittently failing to kick in.

There’s another possibility, too, and it’s more common than you might think. Some air-con systems tend to build up ice inside the system’s plumbing. If that happens, you’ll suddenly get no air-con and possibly even zero airflow through he vents as the ice blocks the trunking completely. The solution is to turn the system off at that point, allow everything to thaw and then turn it back on. Try that process next time the vents fail to see if that fixes it (temporarily).

Rule of thumb says the correct on-road pressure is somewhere between 30 and 40psi for tyres like these. But since you’re losing traction regardless of inflation pressure, who knows. Clearly something else is going on here. Just for starters, the MU-X is fitted with both traction control and stability control which should rule out losing traction in the first place. Are these systems working? If not, you’re technically driving an unroadworthy vehicle.

How old are the tyres? Were they fitted to your previous vehicle and swapped over to the new one? Tyres have a finite lifespan beyond which the rubber compound starts to degrade and the tyres lose grip. That’s something to check. Perhaps the rubber has been contaminated by something like oil or grease. Has the vehicle ever been parked in a pool of oil or diesel? It sounds pretty daft, but is the fuel tank or filler neck allowing diesel to leak on to the tyres or flick up on to them as you drive?

You also need to be aware that as an off-road tyre, on-road grip will never be as good as a tyre designed to work mainly on bitumen. The tread pattern and compound are both compromises in the interests of going off-road, so you can’t expect passenger-car tyre grip from a tyre like this one on a vehicle like your Isuzu.

This make and model of tyre seems to be pretty well received among users, although some have mentioned a lack of wet bitumen grip as something to keep in mind. Don’t forget, either, that in really wet or greasy conditions, you can safely switch to high-range four-wheel-drive to prevent wheelspin and improve your safety margin.

Australian dust is pretty amazing stuff. In some locations, it’s so fine, it can get past even the best rubber seals and into a car’s cabin. Problem is, once it's found its way into the heating and cooling plumbing on your car, every time you turn on the climate control or open the vents, you’re going to smell dust.

Cabin filters can help reduce this, but once the dust has entered the car, there’s very little chance of ever removing it completely.

However, if the smell is only present when you’re travelling on a gravel road, it might be that there’s a more obvious leak that is allowing the dust inside at that point in time. Check all the door and window rubbers, not forgetting the tailgate as the rear of the car is where the dust often enters.

If there are no rubber seals showing damage (or a tell-tale trail of dust) make sure each panel is properly aligned and that the weight of a spare-wheel rack (if you have one fitted) hasn’t distorted the tailgate hinges.

The other thing to do is to put the climate-control on recirculate and switch on the air-conditioning as this will pressurise the cabin and help keep the dust from being sucked into the car. It’s amazing how effective this can be.