Hyundai I30 2010 Problems

Depending on what sort of noise the transmission is making, this sounds like a broken or worn out clutch. Without a properly functioning clutch, gears can be extremely difficult to select and can also cause horrible graunching, grinding noises when trying to select any gear, but particularly reverse.

If this is, indeed, the problem, you could be looking at thousands of dollars to remove the transmission, replace the clutch and reassemble the driveline. You might even find that the engine's flywheel is also beyond saving and needs replacing, too.

On the other hand, the lazy clutch could be a simple case of a leaking or worn clutch slave or master cylinder or even a poorly adjusted clutch system which is allowing the clutch to disobey what the clutch pedal is telling it to do. If that's the case, the fix could be quite simple and relatively cheap.

The point is that you need to know what the problem is before handing over the money, because the value of the same car with either problem will be vastly different. Perhaps finding a car with a properly working clutch and driveline is a better option.

The Trophy version of the i30 used exclusively the two-litre petrol engine. As such, it actually has both a timing belt and a timing chain. The engine has twin overhead camshafts, but only the exhaust camshaft is driven by the timing belt from the crankshaft. A short timing chain then takes drive from the exhaust camshaft to the intake camshaft. The engine also features variable valve timing.

The good news is that you really only have to periodically replace the timing belt (the chain should be maintenance-free for the life of the engine). The recommended replacement interval is every 100,000km.

This needs to be fixed fast, Toni, as a car’s exhaust fumes are a deadly cocktail of gasses. Enough exposure to them can make you pass out (an obvious problem when you’re driving) or worse. Diesel engines are generally a bit smellier than a petrol engine, but no exhaust fumes should ever enter the car.

You’re either getting fumes drawn into the car via a faulty seal that is allowing exhaust fumes in, or the smell you’re experiencing is fumes in the engine-bay coming through the firewall. You need to inspect all the rubber seals around the doors and hatchback and search underneath the car and in the engine bay for a split or missing rubber bung or grommet that is letting the outside in.

The other question I have is whether the smell is the result of exhaust fumes or, in fact, the smell of unburnt diesel fuel. Diesel cars often acquire a diesel-fuel smell over time and the cause is hard to avoid. Because diesel doesn’t evaporate, the ground around the diesel pump at a service station is usually one big oily, diesel slick. When you fill your car, you unavoidably stand in this slick which is then transferred to the car’s carpet when you get back in. It’s not as crazy as it sounds, and it may be the clue you’re missing to explain the smell.

It’s tempting to draw the same conclusion as you have, Peter, but it may not be that simple. The fact is, there are numerous reasons a car will throw up a warning light on the dashboard and, in the case of the electrical power-steering in your car that certainly holds true.

Also, Hyundai was very clear that the recall for the faulty power-steering only concerned those vehicles built between November 1 2009 and April 30 2010. Your car was built after that date, so it shouldn’t be susceptible to the same problem. However, there is often confusion about build dates, so another way to check whether your car was one of the affected ones is to see if its VIN falls within the list of affected VINs according to Hyundai.

For your references, the affected cars all had VINs between: KMHDC81TMAU064300 and KMHDC51TMAU267226.

If your car isn’t within those numbers, then the likely cause is something different and a decent workshop should be able to scan the car and discover what is causing the warning light. It could be something really simple.

There was recall notice in 2014 relating to the universal joint in the steering column, which could come loose and cause a knocking sound. Have a dealer check to see if your car is one of those affected. Another one in 2015 related to a software problem with the power steering.

The car is getting on in age, otherwise I would suggest you contact Hyundai and request a goodwill payment to help with the cost of replacing the column. There’s not much you can do other than replace the column, although you could perhaps use a second-hand column to save some money.

Even though it’s older I would suggest that the i30 is perhaps the better buy with its low kays, but the i20 is also a good car and hasn’t done a lot of kays. Make sure the odometer readings are genuine; they are low for the ages of the cars.

The Hyundai i20 and i30 are both fine car, so too is the Lancer, of the three the i30 is the better. You should be able to find a 2010 model with your budget. You won't have any problems with getting parts if you need them, and they are quite reliable, so you shouldn't have any trouble with them in short to medium-term.

An older i30 should be fine, and far better value than a Corolla that everyone chases. You also should check out a more recent Hyundai i20 or Kia Rio. They are smaller but still good cars and would have some factory warranty.

I wouldn’t recommend the Focus or the Golf, European is not the way to go. The best choices are the Mazda3, Mitsubishi Lancer and the Hyundai i30.