Holden Problems

Mid or medium-sized SUV buyers are absolutely spoiled for choice right now. Pretty much eery car-maker form the budget brands to the high-end marques has a range of SUVs in a size to suit anybody.

Many have very frugal turbo-diesel engines but, for many owners out there, the petrol variant is the one that makes most sense. And even if you’re not worried about fuel consumption, the planet will be pleased to know that most modern SUVs are actually very frugal at the pump compared with their counterparts of just a few years ago, your Captiva included.

If your priorities are reliability and running costs, then maybe a visit to a Hyundai or Kia dealership might be in order. Both brands have plenty of SUVs to choose from, including diesel, petrol, hybrid and even electric versions thereof. They both also offer an industry-leading factory warranty, and capped-price servicing is another big selling point.

I’m not sure what your experience has been with your Captiva, but if you’ve had a similar run with that of many, many owners, just about any new SUV will be more reliable than the Holden.

DPF additives are real thing right now as consumers run scared over the thought of their car’s DPF needing replacement. These additives use a catalyst that claims to help clean out the DPF and regenerate it, usually by lowering the temperature at which the soot will be burned off in the filter.

Perhaps some do, but just as surely some of these will be snake oil. Choose a known brand and be prepared for the experiment to be a complete dud. Expect to pay about $30 for a bottle of additive, too, so it’s not a cheap experiment.

You can try either the type of additive that is simply poured into the fuel tank when you refuel next, or the type that is sprayed into the air intake system with the engine running. Either way, these are probably best regarded as a preventative measure and the servicing industry seems pretty doubtful about the additives’ ability to clean a DPF that is already blocked.

Whether you can register the car or not, is not your biggest hurdle here. Because somebody else (a finance company or bank in this case) has a financial interest in the vehicle, the law in Queensland states that the car may be repossessed by that finance company or bank as a means of recovering the debt, even though the debt was not incurred by you.

Fundamentally, the private seller who sold you the car was not legally in a position to do so for the simple reason that the car was not theirs to sell. Because that financial institution still had a stake in it (as loan security or whatever) the car was not fully owned by the private seller. The car did not, as the law calls it, have a clear title.

If the financial body decides to repossess the car, you would have the choice of letting them do so (and waving goodbye to your money and your car) or paying out the amount of money in dispute. Either that or contact the seller and convincing them to make good on their loan repayments.

You can avoid this situation by doing a PPSR check (in most states) which will alert you to a vehicle that is encumbered. The official advice it to never buy a car with money still owing on it or is in any way encumbered. The other alternative is to buy from a licensed car dealer or trader as, under the law, they must guarantee clear title on any vehicle they sell.

So, before attempting to spend more money on registering the car, talk to the company with the interest in the car and try to come to an arrangement regarding the car’s future. You will have very little recourse if the car is repossessed as the company involved is well within the law to take this action.

This model Holden Cruze is well known for transmission failures. Symptoms include the inability to select gears, a complete loss of drive or, as you have noticed, flaring in the gears. Unfortunately, this often mean the entire transmission is unserviceable.

Holden did extend the transmission warranty on these cars to five years or 150,000km, but even at that rate, your car would still be well and truly out of warranty. The first step, however, is to have the car scanned to see if the computer throws up any transmission-fault codes which could tell more of the story.

In some cases, these cars also experienced failed transmission coolers which allowed the transmission fluid and engine coolant to mix. If that’s the case, you might be able to get away with replacing the radiator, but historically, many of these cases also caused the transmission to fail.

Failures of brake-light switches is quite common in modern cars. This is the tiny switch that is located either on the brake pedal itself or somewhere near the brake master cylinder that senses when you’ve applied the brakes and switches the brake lights on to warn following vehicles that you’re slowing.

In the Colorado’s case, the switch is located on the brake pedal, so you’ll need to locate the old one and replace it with a new unit. Most mechanical workshops can do this quickly and cheaply, but if you want to tackle it yourself, the replacement switch can be bought at a parts store or online.

It all depends on what parts of the suspension the workshop is telling you is worn out. If the strut tops or suspension-arm bushes are worn out, or there’s a problem with the ball-joints or tie-rod ends being too worn, then there’s certainly the chance that there’s insufficient adjustment within the system to return your wheel alignment settings to their correct spec. Even a worn out wheel bearing can cause all sorts of wheel-alignment issues.

Just because you haven’t felt the problem, doesn’t mean it isn’t there. These issues develop gradually and we don’t always notice the small changes week to week until they become a bigger problem.

If, however, you genuinely think the tyre shop is trying to rip you off, you can have the car independently inspected to see if you’re being told the truth. Your state motoring club should be able to help here. Sadly, some of the bigger car-repair retailers have been caught loading up a customer’s repair quote in the past, and consumers need to be on the lookout for these bogus `faults’ that will be added to the bill. We’re definitely not tarring all big chain retailers with the same brush, but it’s something to be aware of.

Vibrations through a car at varying speeds or throttle position can be an indication of wheel imbalance, poor wheel alignment, worn suspension parts, a damaged tyre, bent wheel rim, a driveshaft or CV joint problem, engine misfire, gearbox of differential issue, over-tight brake, worn brake drum or rotor and perhaps a million other things.

If the problem is worse since the new engine was fitted, I’d be looking at things like engine mounts which can wear and even fail, leading to a vibration or wobble throughout the whole car.

But if the bull-bar is wobbling in sympathy, don’t rule out a loose bolt(s) in the bull-bar mounts which are allowing it to flop about and send a shiver through the rest of the car. Even a blob of mud stuck in the inside of a wheel rim can be enough to imbalance that wheel and produce the same effect when the particular harmonics of slowing down enter the equation.

You could start with the engine mounts and work your way backwards along the driveline, looking for worn couplings, U-bolts and universal joints. If you have a Go-Pro camera, maybe mounting that under the car and reviewing the footage afterward might give you a clue as to what’s causing the wobble. Having the wheels and tyres balanced would be another relatively inexpensive way of ruling out one possibility.

A check-engine light in a car like a Captiva can mean all sorts of things. Everything from a stretched timing chain (quite likely in this vehicle) to a dud oxygen sensor in the exhaust system (and about a million things in between) can cause the engine light to flicker on ominously.

The best advice is to have the car scanned electronically. That way, the scanning computer will 'talk’ to the car’s computer and the car should offer up any faults it has logged in the process of being driven.

You’re better off not driving the car until it can be scanned and fixed, as the problem causing the engine light to come on could easily get worse and may eventually damage other components. If it is something like a stretched timing chain that is causing the warning light, it could eventually break and reduce the whole engine to scrap.

It’s a bit hard to go past an older Holden Commodore or Ford Falcon for this brief. That said, your towing requirement means you’d be best looking at something like an AU (1998 to 2003) Falcon Ute (assuming you only need to move one other person).

These are strong, simple cars that any mechanic can deal with and parts are plentiful and relatively cheap. There are other options (older Japanese dual-cabs) but nothing really gets close to the Aussie stuff for durability and running costs. An elderly Nissan Navara, for instance, might do the job but is likely to become fragile as it ages. A two-wheel-drive Toyota HiLux is another possibility, but you’d probably be right at the limit of your towing capacity with one of those. The Falcon ute, meanwhile, can legally tow 2300kg. It’s not glamorous or sexy, but it’ll do the job and stay on target price-wise.

The other obvious contender would be an early Mitsubishi Pajero with a V6 engine. These had a towing capacity of 2500kg and are around now for very little money, certainly within your budget. They also double as a very handy off-roader should you wish.

If the engine is revving but the car is not moving, you probably have a transmission or gearbox fault. If the problem was a broken driveshaft or CV joint, the car would just roll to a stop and not move again. But since it gradually lost drive before finally refusing to move, it’s more likely to be the gearbox that is the cause of this.

Sometimes, this sort of problem can be as simple as a leak from the transmission which has led to a low fluid level. And since it’s the fluid in an automatic transmission that actually provides the drive (by transferring the torque) this can bring on the symptoms you’re seeing.

At the other end of the catastrophe scale, you could be looking at a gearbox that has failed internally and comprehensively. And I’m afraid to say that this model Cruze did have a reputation for just that occurring. Sometimes the problem could be traced back to a torque-converter, valve body or sensor error, but other times complete transmission failure was the diagnosis.

Holden actually acknowledged this problem by extending the transmission warranty to 150,000km or five years after the date the car first went into service. Unfortunately, that ended in 2018 for your car. It would still be worth contacting Holden’s customer service department, however, but don’t be surprised if financial help is not forthcoming.