Ford Territory Problems

A lot of cars seem to suffer from this. The fuel seems to back-up in the filler neck, and that’s what causes the bowser to click off (as a safety measure, to prevent fuel being sprayed around the forecourt). There are three things that seem to help with this.

The first is to place the bowser nozzle half way into the car’s fuel neck. Pushing it all the way in will often make the problem worse, and only half poking it in seems to have the effect of allowing the car to swallow the fuel faster without it backing up. The second thing to try is to insert the nozzle and then rotate it 90-degrees to one side or the other. Again, this seems to re-align the nozzle in the filler neck and can help. The third trick is to pull the trigger on the nozzle only part way. That slows the fuel flow down a little, but if it prevents the bowser continually clicking off, it’s still faster.

Modern cars are really susceptible to power `spikes’ when the battery is being reconnected. Often, these power surges can damage electronic equipment and perhaps that’s what’s happened to the unit in your Territory.

If that’s the case, the unit will need to be removed and repaired by a specialist. The worst-case scenario may involve an entire replacement ICC. It could also be that the ICC requires a code to re-boot it after being disconnected from a power source. If that’s the case, a visit to a Ford dealership might be all that is required.

It’s hard to provide you with an answer, as you haven’t told us what model the Ghia is. The Ghia badge is used to denote the top-of-the-range variant of a model, and could be applied to any model in Ford’s range. With the little information you’d provided I doubt that there will be a badge, and I suspect the car would not be a 4WD.

There’s nothing to suggest there are any issues with the turbo plumbing on the Territory. The turbo Territory is a rocketship, but it uses a lot of fuel in the pursuit of performance.

As well as a fix, I’d also be looking for a new auto electrician, Troy. Every one of these problems can, I reckon, be traced back to the car’s body computer, a component that Ford had all sorts of trouble with in its Australian made cars over the years. It’s a well known problem, can be an intermittent one and will definitely produce the glitches you’re seeing. A new body computer can also often mean a new key which has to be electronically coded to the computer before anything will work again.

Theoretically, yes the transfer case could cause a clunk from the drivetrain, but without hearing the noise in person it is next to impossible to diagnose. You can find all recalls issued by Ford here. 

A car with a little extra ground clearance is great for camping as it often allows you to get a little farther away from the masses in their caravans who tend to huddle around the shower block at bush campsites.

The Subaru Outback is a good, solid choice and if you can find an independent workshop to service it, you’ll avoid the cost of dealership prices. And you’re right, the all-wheel-drive would be great for gravel roads. Another vehicle to look at would be a late-model Ford territory diesel which is big and clever inside and has the option of all-wheel-drive. The diesel engine is a plus on the bush where that fuel is more readily available (in really remote areas) and gives you more range for big holidays in the mulga.

Don’t rule out things like the Mitsubishi Pajero, either, which won’t be as around-town friendly, but is a proven quantity and is absolutely tremendous off-road. The same goes for a Toyota Prado or Nissan Pathfinder prior to the current model (which is a bit less hard-core adventure).

It’s relatively widespread, Steve. In fact, it was enough of a problem for a while there that Ford was actually repairing some cars that were out of warranty. So that would be the first step: Tackle your local Ford dealer and ask the tough questions. A vehicle made in 2015 is too young to be rusty through bad design, but bear in mind that the dealer may not want to know and playing hardball on your part could result in legal costs if you follow it right through. And there’s no guarantee you’d win anyway.

There are shortcuts to rust repairs, but they all guarantee that the problem will recur. Fixing rust permanently requires removing all the affected metal, welding in new metal and rust-proofing the end result before repainting.

Somehow, moisture was able to enter the skin of the Territory’s tailgate and sit there and, naturally, rust was the end result. The area at the rear of the car around the tail-lights is also susceptible to corrosion. It’s interesting that the Territory had a storage space beneath the boot floor that was designed to accommodate wet bathers and wetsuits after a trip to the beach. Could this be the clue?

If you can establish without doubt that the bolts came loose as a result of a manufacturing fault you might have a claim against Ford for the repairs, but if it’s not clear what caused them to come loose you won't have much joy. You could consult the ACCC if you feel you want to pursue Ford for compensation.

There shouldn’t be any problem in doing that. If it’s going to be a much longer time, like weeks or months, it might be wise to connect a charger up to the battery to maintain the charge.