Ask The Guide

That the shudder only occurs in fifth gear is, perhaps, the big clue here. If the problem was an engine mount or drive-shaft or suspension problem, the shudder would appear at those same engine revs or road speed, regardless of what gear the car had selected. So maybe you need to dig a bit deeper into the transmission to see if there’s a problem with the torque converter, the way the converter lock-up is working or even a problem with the gearset itself that offers up fifth gear. This is, of course, if the vehicle is an automatic (which you haven’t disclosed).

If it’s a manual, then fifth gear is the overdrive ratio for that gearbox and some Colorados were fitted with five-speed manuals that had a problem with the thrust washer on fifth gear. This washer could fracture if the vehicle was used for towing heavy loads. When the washer finally failed, the vehicle could jump out of fifth gear and actually lock up the rear wheels. Back in the day, Holden was actually replacing the entire gearbox if the vehicle was one of the affected ones. It would be worth checking with a Holden service centre to see if your vehicle is from that batch.

The first thing to check would be the fuse or relay that protects the power-windows’ electrical circuit. Designed to protect wiring from an electrical spike or short-circuit, these fuses and relays can also fail for no apparent reason apart from old age.

If one window went south on its own, you’d be looking for a problem specific to that door, but since they all went out at the same time, you need to look for a fault a little deeper into the wiring. Which is where a blown fuse or dud relay comes into the reckoning.

The first job is to find the fuse or relay in question. The owner’s manual (which should still be living in the glove-box) will have a chapter that shows the location(s) of the fuse boxes in the vehicle. You might find there’s one under the dashboard near the steering column, and another under the bonnet. The same chapter in the handbook should also identify which fuse and relay does what, but this info should also be printed on the inside of the fuse-box cover.

Once you’ve identified the fuse or relay, you can check the fuse visually, or have an auto electrician check the relay for proper operation. If that component is the problem, a quick, simple and cheap replacement will restore the windows to full health.

If that doesn’t work, then an auto electrician is probably your next stop, as you could be searching for a broken wire or a failed switch-block or some other obscure fault.

No, the new Ranger is code-named PY, while the vehicle in question is a PX. Admittedly, it’s a very late-build PX (a Series 3, if you like) which got a revised look and extra tech, but it’s not a 'Next Gen'. The real giveaway is that it has the five-cylinder 3.2-litre engine fitted. This engine was dropped for the newer models, Ford electing to stick with the 2.0-litre bi-turbo and 3.0 V6 diesel engines and the twin-turbo 3.0-litre petrol unit for the Raptor.

Any second-hand car can give you problems, and this era of Mercedes-Benz production was not exactly notable for its build quality or reliability. On the other hand, that’s an insanely small amount of money for a convertible with a Mercedes-Benz badge, isn’t it?

The first thing to check is the overall condition. You say it’s a 7 out of 10 car, so presumably it’s showing its age in a few areas. Make sure everything electrical works properly and don’t forget things like the air-conditioning and cruise-control, both of which can cost a bomb to put right. Make extra sure the convertible roof works as it should, and check for wind noise from the roof at speed which could indicate an alignment problem. These roofs can easily be knocked out of whack in a rear end or side-on crash, so it’s vital everything lines up. The service record is crucial in a car like this, too. If there’s evidence of skipped maintenance, think long and hard about the purchase. These cars are complex and won’t tolerate sloppy servicing.

So why are cars like his so cheap? Mainly because people are scared that any repairs or parts needed will cost the earth. And there’s a fair bit to justify those concerns. Even apparently simple things like the dashboard vents are often complex, vacuum operated horrors in this era of European luxury cars, and can destroy your household budget to repair. But if you can set aside some money for repairs, and you are prepared to walk away from the thing if it all gets too hard (and expensive) then there’s a lot to like about a second-hand luxury car. Especially one that cost about $120,000km on the road when brand new and is now available for a fraction of that.

It could be dozens of things, but a transmission specialist should be able to diagnose it quickly. This is an older, well-known car and there’s not much a good Mitsubishi mechanic won’t be able to assess accurately.

But before you call a tow-truck, check the level of fluid in the transmission via the dipstick. If there’s no – or low – oil, you might have figured out why the vehicle won’t move. The job then becomes one of working out where the transmission fluid went, because these are sealed systems and shouldn’t need topping up between transmission services.

There are two likely suspects here. The first is a blown head gasket which is allowing the oil and coolant to mix. Sometimes this shows up as oil in the coolant, sometimes as coolant in the oil. Sometimes both.

But before tearing the engine to pieces to change the gasket, it’s worth checking if the car is fitted with either an engine or transmission oil cooler. These often use the engine’s coolant to keep the oil or transmission fluid cool, and a failed one can allow the two fluids to mix, showing up as oil in the radiator or header tank.

Believe it or not, this is perfectly normal behaviour from many modern vehicles with eight, nine or even 10-speed automatic transmissions. It’s even more common with torquey turbo-diesel engines which can jump one or even two gears on a light throttle without affecting performance. Put simply, there are more gears on offer than the vehicle actually needs. Don’t forget, once upon a time, a three-speed transmission was quite common.

So why have nine or ten gears in the first place? Because when the vehicle is heavily loaded or towing three tonnes of caravan, those extra gears come in very handy for keeping the engine in its torque zone and ensuring it can still go up hills at highways speeds and take off from a red light without over-exerting itself. And when cruising on the highway, the vehicle can select a really high gear and lower its engine speed, which reduces fuel consumption markedly.

Proper maintenance is overlooked by many car owners, and it’s a real problem. Modern engines work very hard and have lots of intricate oilways and mechanical clearances that simply won’t tolerate dirty oil. On paper, the car you’re looking at hasn’t had clean oil or a filter change in 20,000km and that’s an awfully long time between drinks. In fact, it’s enough to perhaps give Mazda cause to void any new-car warranty remaining on it, should something mechanical go wrong.

Your best option would be to find another CX-5 with the options and in the colour you want, but with an up to date and complete service record. That’s the best way to prevent any major disasters down the track. The good news is the CX-5 was a popular model, so there should be lots to choose from.

That seems odd, but there might be a really simple explanation. I’d love to know whether you’re calculating your fuel consumption by working out how far each tank is taking you, or whether you’re relying on the trip computer in the car’s dashboard. If it’s the latter, the reason for your higher figure after a service could be very simple.

It could easily be that the mechanic test drives the car after each service to make sure everything is working as it should be. To do this, the tester is very likely to give the engine a couple (or more) acceleration runs with lots of throttle. It’s also possible the car is left to idle for a time for the engine to come up to temperature while the mechanic gets on with other things. Both these activities will lead to higher fuel consumption than you might experience in normal driving with no harsh acceleration or extended idling periods. Because the car’s trip-computer works out fuel consumption based on recent use, this treatment at the workshop will lead it to deliver a higher reading on the dashboard. That it happens only after a trip to the workshop is the big clue here.

To test this theory, drive the car normally for a week and see if the fuel consumption number drops. If so, you’ve solved the mystery. If not, you need to return the car to the workshop because something is not right and is causing the car to use more fuel.

Any time you have a soft brake pedal, you also have the potential for sudden brake failure. On that basis, you really shouldn’t drive this car anywhere, just in case the entire system decides to fail at the worst possible moment.

Meantime, the noise you’re hearing could be the sound of a leaking brake booster which is losing vacuum and, therefore, braking pressure. But if that was the case, you’d expect the brake pedal to go hard and require more effort to push it, not the other way around.

In many cases, a soft brake pedal is an indication of air in the system. The system should be full of brake fluid, not a combination of fluid and air. That’s because brake fluid is incompressible and, therefore, transfers all the braking force to the brake pads and rotors, stopping the car effectively. Air, on the other hand, is very compressible, and its presence will take away the brakes’ efficiency leading to the soft pedal you’re feeling. But it’s not just a soft pedal; you’ll also experience longer stopping distances and less outright braking power when you need it in an emergency.

Your car may need a brake overhaul, new brake fluid or perhaps just a process called bleeding (where the air is removed from the system). Either way, don’t drive it any farther.