Ask The Guide

A lot of caravans of this size can easily weigh up to (and perhaps a little bit more than) 3000kg. The good news is that the Rexton is rated to tow 3500kg. So make sure the van and everything in it including things like water tanks, weighs less than 3500kg and that you don’t exceed the towball down-weight limit.

Don’t forget, either that the Rexton has a Gross Combination Mass limit of 6460kg, which means that with the full 3500kg on the towball, plus the kerb weight of the vehicle (2130kg) you only have 830kg for everything in the car including passengers, luggage, fuel and any accessories you’ve added. In this regard, the Rexton isn’t too bad and some other vehicles have precious little payload remaining once there’s a big van hanging off the back.

The other thing to remember is that with all that weight on board, you might find the turbo-diesel engine is working pretty hard most of the time. Many caravanners prefer a vehicle with a larger capacity engine on that basis.

It kind of all depends on why you’re considering changing the wheels and tyres on your vehicle. If it’s for aesthetics, then go right ahead, but bear in mind that ride quality will likely suffer as a result. That’s because an 18-inch tyre will (typically) have less sidewall depth than a 17-inch tyre. And a tyre’s sidewall plays a huge part in how a car feels to ride in. Fundamentally, the smaller the sidewall, the harsher the ride will be.

In an off-road sense, you’re probably better off sticking with 17-inch wheels, too. By fitting an all-terrain tyre, you’ll improve your off-road grip. That said, all-terrain tyres (once restricted to smaller sizes) and now available in 18, 19, 20 and even 21-inch fitments.

The fuel tank on your car has a capacity of 75 litres. With an official combined fuel economy number of 10.3 litres per 100km, that should give you a range of around 700km before you need to start looking for a service station.

It would appear the vehicle has gone into limp-home mode. This limits how much power the engine produces and how fast the vehicle will go as a means of protecting the engine and transmission from damage due to whatever the root cause is. Often a low coolant or oil level or high temperature will force the car into limp-home mode, but there are many other reasons for this to happen. You need to take the car to a workshop which will be able to scan the vehicle electronically and gain a better idea of what’s going on.

Don’t forget, either, that provided you car is less than five years old and has travelled less than 130,000km, it should still be covered by the LDV factory warranty.

As for the colour of the oil, diesel engines are notoriously filthy things and nearly always turn their oil black in a very short space of time. In fact, even when topping up with new oil, by the time it has reached the sump and appears on the dipstick, it’s already black.

Electrical failures like this are not uncommon even on brand-new cars. You could have a problem with the body computer, the wiring system, the lock actuators, a fuse or relay or even the key fob that you use to control the locking. However, the solution is pretty simple: This car should still be under the factory warranty (even if you’re not the original owner) so all you need do is take it back to an Isuzu dealer. Under Australian Consumer Law (provided you haven’t caused the problem through negligence or mis-use) the manufacturer is responsible for fixing problems like this one at no cost to you.

A car that continually breaks the same component time after time probably has a bigger problem than simply the part that keeps breaking. It sounds like you need to have the transmission and torque converter checked for alignment and correct interface. Any problem with the way they fit together could explain why an O-ring keeps failing. Continuing to replace the O-ring won’t fix a more complex problem.

Either that, or the mechanic who is changing the O-rings is making the same mistake over and over again and not using the correct lubrication or fitting procedure.

Unless you’ve been the victim of a cruel twist of fate where something else has gone wrong at the exact moment you fitted the new neutral safety switch, it stands to reason that the new switch is not playing the game. You say you’ve tightened the selector linkage, but did you make sure the new switch was located precisely so that it could detect when the car was not in neutral (and, therefore, prevent it from starting)? By tightening the linkage, you may have moved the trigger for the safety switch to a position where it isn’t allowing the switch to make contact and let the engine crank.

In the meantime, try this: If the engine won’t turn with the gearbox in Park, move the selector to Neutral and see if that changes anything. If the car suddenly starts, you know that the new switch is working but needs adjustment to get it into the correct position.

Like anything mechanical, the gear-shifting mechanism in a car can become slack, or sloppy, over time and kilometres. Play can develop in the linkages and levers that select each gear, or in the part where the gear-shift itself is joined to those selectors. Also, the actual selectors that disappear into the gearbox and physically shift the gears can also develop excess movement or play.

You can probably remove the shifter boot and centre console inside the cabin and check for looseness in the upper part of the shifter mechanism, but to check the whole thing, you’ll need to climb under the car and feel for play and look for broken clips, missing springs and worn out bushes. The good news is that it’s probably an external wear issue and not something inside the gearbox itself.

I can see why the internet cohort might be confused by this question (and why your mate at the pub may or may not know what he’s talking about) because it’s a bit of a weird one. For reasons of friction reduction (efficiency) and reliability, the camshafts in the Ford Bi-turbo are driven by a rubber toothed belt. But – and here’s the strange bit – the belt is partially submerged in the oil in the engine’s sump, so it’s a 'wet' timing belt. While the vast majority of other rubber, toothed timing belts run in a 'dry' environment.

Ford reckons this gives the engine the low noise of a conventional rubber timing belt, combined with the low friction running of a conventional `wet’ timing chain. But the high-strength cords and the oil-resistant rubber the belt is made from, says Ford, also mean that it should last a lot longer than a conventional timing belt. While conventional belts should be changed between 80,000 and 120,000km (roughly speaking) the Ford belt is said to be good for 230,000km.

For the record, the Bi-turbo’s oil pump is driven by a second belt of the same construction.

Noisy tappets (also known as hydraulic lifters) are relatively common on engines that have done their fair share of work. By using oil pressure generated from the engine’s oil pump, the hydraulic lifter can adjust to maintain the perfect gap between itself and the engine’s intake and exhaust valves. This improves efficiency and reduces engine wear, so it’s an important job.

Over time, the lifters may become a bit lazy (or weak) and may not be able to maintain that correct gap. At which point the extra clearance causes the tapping sound we associate with worn lifters. Replacement is the solution, and best practice says replace them all at once on the basis that if one lifter is already weak, the rest won’t be too clever either.

However, there’s one thing you can try before that, and that is to give the engine an oil change with a high-detergent (as most diesel engine oils are) content oil and a clean filter. Sometimes, fresh oil will clear out a small piece of grit or rubbish that is blocking the oil flow to a lifter and restore it to full health.