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Almost certainly not. The 2016 Mazda BT-50 was a shared model with Ford (Ranger) but in late 2020, the BT-50 was replaced by an all-new model which was a platform sharing deal with Isuzu (D-Max).

Even if the dual-cab tubs of each version of the BT-50 were dimensionally similar, there would be dozens of detail differences (tie-down points, tailgate width, hinge placement, wheel-arch intrusion etc) that would mean the tub liner from one would not fit into the other. The good news is there are plenty of tub-liners available for the new BT-50. Most seem to be priced from about $300 to $500. And since the previous model BT-50 was a popular vehicle, you could probably sell the old tub liner you have to offset the cost of the new one.

It sounds like the needle has physically moved on its shaft to exhibit this problem. The question is how. Did you hit a huge pothole or bump off-road? Has any part of the dashboard been adjusted or pulled apart for another reason? Has the vehicle been operated in really dusty conditions (sufficient to have jammed up the smooth movement of the speedo needle)?

Unlike older vehicles, the modern HiLux doesn’t use a simple mechanical cable to power the speedo. Instead, it uses a vehicle speed sensor as part of the transmission to inform the body computer of the vehicle’s speed which then transfers an electrical signal to the speedo in the dashboard. If anything goes wrong with that chain of electronic command, then the speedo can be affected.

You’ve gone down the right path by having the vehicle scanned first, and even though no fault codes were revealed, that doesn’t mean it was a waste of time. In some cases, a mechanic experienced in a particular make and model will know that a fault with no code is caused by a specific part or piece of software. LS1 Holden V8s, for instance can experience a misfire with no code showing up. In that case, an experienced LS1 mechanic will go straight to the spark plugs as the cause.

So the best advice is to find a Ford Transit specialist as this problem has almost certainly occurred before to somebody else. Be aware, too, that Transits built between September 2014 and January 2015 were subject to a recall to replace a batch of faulty fuel injectors which were causing the precise symptoms you’ve noted. Ford believed the problem was solved for vehicles built after January 2015 (including yours) but it’s worth checking since it was a big enough problem for Ford Australia to issue a fleet-wide recall.

The current-model Everest (particularly with the optional turbo-diesel V6 engine) is a great choice and is a clear class-leader in dynamic and accommodation terms. It's also a tremendously capable vehicle off road, so it should suit your needs very well indeed. On that basis, it will hold its value better than most of its competition, purely because it will remain a popular choice.

Your concern over the continued availability of conventional fuels is understandable, but should really be nothing to worry about as both petrol and diesel will continue to be available long beyond your five-year horizon. Vehicles like the Everest will also be the last bastions of conventional fuels, as the long distances in remote areas that they are so good at are the very conditions that don't suit electric vehicles at all. Yes, petrol and diesel will inevitably become more expensive, but so will electricity.

The eyebrow height is measured from the centre of the wheel, vertically to the edge of the wheel arch. The vehicle needs to be on flat ground and unladen for this measurement to be taken. In the case of a 2014 Challenger, the standard front eyebrow height is 542mm and the rear eyebrow height is 552mm.

None of these symptoms are what you want to find. Any car mixing its coolant with its engine oil has some kind of internal failure (often a head gasket failure) and a car that is consuming oil at a fast rate is also probably suffering some kind of internal damage or wear. Have a mechanic perform a few basic tests on the engine (compression, leak-down and head-gasket) and proceed from there. But if it's as bad as it sounds, you could be looking for a new engine (or a new car).

These engines were known for being quite complex and perhaps not as durable as they should have been in some cases. They're also quite expensive to rebuild and may cost more to fix than the entire car is worth. At that point, you have some tough decisions to make.

It's definitely worth looking into as it's not normal behaviour for the Ranger and could point to a problem that, if not fixed now, could lead to a bigger drama down the track. A scan of the entire vehicle's electronics might show up a problem with the fuel system or throttle set-up. While it's tempting to look at the engine itself as the source of the revs flaring, don't rule out the transmission, either. A faulty torque converter or even a low transmission-fluid level could be the culprit here.

The manual transmission in this car side-stepped one of the bigger faults with the Pajero. In automatic form, the transmission cooler which ran inside the radiator could split, allowing the coolant and transmission fluid to mix. If this happened, the transmission was often ruined. No such problem with the manual, however.

But really, the scope for problems in a car this old that also happens to be an off-roader is huge. Age and kilometres are never kind to vehicles, and a Pajero of this age has probably covered plenty of ground. Also, if it has been used as its maker intended (that is, off-road) then you need to check things like wheel bearings, differential fluids and suspension parts for damage and wear. Are the chassis rails showing signs of having clobbered hundreds of rocks in the past? Do all the body panels line-up or are there signs of the metal having been bent and twisted in the bush?

Even if the car has never been off-road (and you can confirm this) there's still all the old-car checks to make. Have the engine compression tested to make sure there's not excessive internal wear and listen carefully for any clunks, bangs or grinding noises. Then go through the car from top to bottom making sure every switch, handle and lever does what it is supposed to.

These can be really good second-hand buys, but the wrong Pajero, like the wrong example of any car, can break your heart and empty your wallet. If in doubt, have a Pajero specialist or your state motoring club independently check the car for you and get a written report.

The biggest determining factor in how a car copes with tougher terrain is driver behaviour. Drive the car sensibly, sympathetically and to the conditions and you'll be amazed where most cars will happily take you. But get it wrong and drive in a ham-fisted way, and even the roughest, toughest four-wheel-drive will suffer and fail.

The BMW X5 is a soft-roader at best, but should definitely have the suspension to tackle rough roads (as opposed to off-road). The biggest challenge will be the tyres fitted. Many of these vehicles had huge wheels with tyres with very little sidewall. These tyres are easily damaged on rough roads.

Since luggage space is not a critical issue for you, I'd suggest buying a full-sized spare tyre that fits the car, as the SUV's usual space-saver or tyre repair kit can be fairly useless in such conditions. But you also need to be honest about your intentions. By mud and water, do you mean the odd puddle, or 10km of rutted farm track with bog-holes for good measure? If there's any off-road work at all, then you need an off-road four-wheel-drive, not an SUV.

It is true that sometimes a differential can contribute a small amount of vibration on tight turns as it goes about its business of allowing one axle to rotate faster than the other. But it probably shouldn't be noticeable in a modern product like yours, and it definitely shouldn't be getting worse. In fact, its worsening condition is a real alarm bell.

The best advice is to take the car to an independent workshop – your state motoring club would be a good start – and have the vehicle inspected. Use those findings as your basis on whether to push for repairs or accept that this behaviour is just part of the way the car works. Present the findings to your dealership and make sure they go on the car's record as this will be proof of a pre-existing condition if the vehicle gives the same trouble - or worse - after the warranty has expired.