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The short answer is no, the extra cost is not justified in a vehicle that does not require premium unleaded. While some premium fuel products do contain detergents to help keep an engine internally clean (which is the basis of the claim you heard) the major difference (and the reason PULP costs more) is to do with the octane rating of the fuel.

Put simply, engines in a higher state of tune require this higher octane rating to produce their potential and well as avoiding internal damage. Your Subaru, meanwhile, is tuned to be quite happy on standard 91 RON ULP, and filling it with the more expensive premium brew is a waste of money. You might gain a small improvement in performance and/or economy, but not enough to offset the higher per-litre price of PULP, and probably not enough to even notice.

The rule of thumb states that if the engine fires on starting fluid sprayed down the intake, but won't run on the fuel in its tank, the first thing to check is the fuel pump. Just because there was some fuel present when you cracked the seal on the fuel injector, does not necessarily mean that there's enough of it or the fuel pressure is sufficient to start the engine.

Modern common-rail diesel engines use very sophisticated fuel systems which use super-high pressure. Without a pump to build up to this pressure, the injector won't deliver the right amount of fuel for successful running. But you should also check the operation of the glow-plugs as well as the condition of the fuel filters. An electronic scan is also a good idea at this point, before you start replacing expensive bits and pieces.

Be extra careful fiddling with engines like this one, especially if you're messing about with the injectors and fuel system. The inherent pressures are so high, that a leak can act like a water-jet cutter; sufficiently powerful to remove a finger.

The 1.8-litre non-turbo and 1.4-litre turbocharged engines in the 2014 Cruze will run happily on 91-octane petrol. The more highly tuned 1.6-litre turbo engine in the SRi, SRi V and Z Series models required a minimum of 95-octane fuel. There's no problem using 95-octane fuel in the engines designed for 91 fuel, but you probably won't gain anything in terms of fuel consumption or performance. The only thing that will happen quicker will be the emptying of your wallet.

There's no problem mixing 91 and 95-octane fuel in the cars designed to run on 91-octane petrol, but the 1.6-litre engine can be damaged by using anything other than a fuel with a minimum octane rating of 95.

Technically, as far as local car-industry definitions go, your car is a member of the light commercial class of cars, and in the medium SUV sub-category. Whether you think it's a luxury car is up to you and will largely depend on your expectations and previous experiences.

Luxury is a tricky thing to define and as cars gain more and more standard equipment and refinement with each passing year, what passed for luxury a few years ago might now be considered a run-of-the-mill vehicle. There was a time when velour trim and intermittent windscreen wipers were the preserve of luxury cars, but that won't cut it these days when the cheapest cars have those things and much more as standard.

It all depends on what aspect of the car disappointed you, Kylie. The clinical feel of an Audi interior is not a chance thing and the brand spends lots of time and money ensuring that its cabins and driving environments are among the most ergonomically savvy in the game. If, however, that makes the thing feel something less than special, then this is a classic example of where perception is reality. For you (which is what matters).

I'd also be interested to know what variant you drove that prompted you to ask questions about engine performance. The Q3 is available in one variant with 110kW and 250Nm, but also a higher-spec version with 132kW and a much meatier 320Nm. These feel quite different to drive thanks to the extra performance of the latter.

Beyond the Audi brand, the world is your oyster. The phenomenal popularity of SUVs means that pretty much every maker has one of each size in their line-up. They come in all grades of trim and cover a huge range of price-points. Check out the Carsguide website reviews section and you'll see what we mean.

As cars (particularly expensive ones) move to electronic monitoring of their engine oil level, it's nice to remember simpler times when all cars had an engine dipstick. This simple little strip of metal is inserted into the engine block and shows exactly where the oil level is at any given moment (when the engine is not running, anyway). And while a new car can suffer from a bad sensor or warning light, the dipstick, used properly, never lies.

Just about all engines have a dipstick with a pair of marks etched or stamped on them towards the lower part of the dipstick (the end that sticks farthest into the engine). The lower mark represents the lowest level you should allow the oil to reach, while the physically higher mark is the upper level the oil should be at. Anywhere in the middle of those two marks means you're okay. Sometimes the lower mark will be in the form of a little `E' for Empty, or `A' for Add, while the upper mark will be marked `F' for Full. Foreign cars will often use a foreign letter or symbol, but the meaning is the same. Sometimes the marks are simple grooves etched into the dipstick and sometimes there will be a cross-hatched area which shows the acceptable range of oil levels. Any combination of those marks or patterns has been used over the years.

When checking you oil, don't forget to have the car on level ground, and to remove the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it and then read the level to get an accurate reading. And ensure that the engine was fully warmed up last time the car was driven and that you've allowed the oil to settle for at least a few minutes after stopping the engine.

The steering system in your Mazda is the old-school hydraulic type, rather than the more modern electrically-assisted set-up. Noises when you turn the steering wheel often indicate a problem with the rack itself or the hydraulics, either of which can make the system grumble and rumble when you deflect it from the straight-ahead.

The first thing to check would be the hydraulic system for leaks. These will show up as drops of fluid seeping from the various joins in the system. A check of the power-steering pump's fluid level is also a good indicator of a leak somewhere; if it's down on where it should be, you have a leak. If that's the case, the whole system probably needs a once over.

You should also check the actual steering column for the source of the noise, as sometimes a simple plastic-on-plastic contact somewhere on the column or its shroud can produce a noise like this.

Within the rack itself are valves and fluid passages that can, over time trap air. When that happens, the air bubbles can make the sort of noise you're hearing, also. So before you spend any money, try this trick: Start the engine with the car stationary and then cycle the steering from full left lock to full right lock a couple of times. Often, this will bleed the air out of the system and restore things to normal. It may or may not work, but since it's free, it's worth a crack.

Worn glow-plugs will certainly make a diesel engine difficult to start and can easily contribute lots of smoke to the equation. But in reality, you could be looking at anything from worn or dribbling injectors, a blocked air-intake system, a worn fuel pump or simply internal wear in the engine itself. A worn turbocharger bearing or seal can also cause these problems, and don't forget about the simple stuff like a blocked fuel filter.

Trying to diagnose turbo-diesel engine problems from the colour of the smoke emitted is a hiding to nowhere and you'll inevitably find yourself changing perfectly good parts on a hunch and wasting lots of time and money. The best bet is to take the car to a diesel specialist and have the whole system investigated.

There's been plenty of talk in recent years about the future of diesel engines in vehicles like the Ranger and Everest. And while there's a school of thought that suggests that they'll switch to petrol and petrol-electric hybrid drivelines, that hardly makes a diesel-engined version a dinosaur overnight. Take the Toyota Corolla, for instance: While the latest Corolla is available with a hybrid powertrain (and it's a very popular format) there are still plenty of people happily driving around in their 20-year-old Corollas with conventional drivelines.

The point being that progress is a fact of life. Every time a new piece of tech arrives that is seen as an improvement, car-makers will adopt it. Which means the previous technology is out of date, but not necessarily beyond its useful life.

If you think a plug-in hybrid Ranger or Everest would suit you, then by all means wait until 2024 (the rumoured launch date). But bear in mind that, by then, there may be talk of the next big thing in Rangers and Everests; an advance that could make even the plug-in hybrid look a bit yesterday.

The current model Everest is rated to tow up to 3500kg (with a braked trailer) making it one of the better credentialed tow-vehicles out there. These ute-derived station-wagons sometimes lose a little of the towing capacity of their dual-cab brethren on the basis of their more complaint rear suspension (which makes for a nicer ride). But, somehow, Ford has managed to retain the full 3500kg towing capacity for the Everest.

The question then becomes which engine you choose and, on balance, the V6 turbo-diesel is the one to have. The V6 models cost a bit more, but they do get you all-wheel-drive (great for towing) and the V6 engine has a handy 30kW and 100Nm more that the four-cylinder version. All things considered, the Everest is a great vehicle with which a tow a caravan.